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Published: February 24th 2011
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Arriving Bahia Magdalena
Cyrus Scouting out the anchorage S/Y Volpaia
Monday January 17th, 2010
Position: 24 34.51 N
112 03.99 W
Location: Bahia Magdalena
Time: 1700 EST
Heading: N/A
Boat Speed: 0 knts
Wind Speed: 6 knts
Wind Direction: 268 magnetic
Sea State: 0 meter
Sail Status: At Anchor
Comments: Bahia Magdalena... ahhhhh Bahia Magdalena. I have dreamed of this place. I have taught about this place for years. Dreamed, thought, explained, wished and lectured... Bahia Magdalena... doesn't it sound like a spiritual place where all women would wear blue flowing dresses that exactly match the color of the ocean? oh... well maybe that is just me.
Working in Hawaii as a whale naturalist with the humpback whales, Bahia Magdalena comes up often. Where else do Humpback whales go when they are not heading to Hawaii? What about Gray Whales??.. do whales ever attack boats? Are whales afraid of boats? Are whales aware of humans? Do whales know what boats are? Are whales afraid of people?
All of the answers can be found here in Bahia Magdalena. This bay is warm and shallow + very large + very protected which = Perfect place to have a baby if I were
a whale! Not many large predators, calm seas, shallow waters... ahhh bliss. I am a happy whale....Until they decide to kill me. Magdalena Bay is also famous for the whaling station.. how perfect.. they come right to us! We are currently anchored off of this old whaling station. Blood ran deep here, not so long ago. Now seasonal fishermen have fish camps here and they smile and wave as their fishing pangas zip back and forth.. in and out of the bay. After a 3rd then 4th curious look.. I realize their pangas are filled with large sharks. How odd is that! Or at least that is not what I was expecting to see. 6-8 foot long sharks! They lay them belly up, so we have not been able to tell what species they are. Maybe someone reading this log will have more information they can share. Historically, this has not been such a happy place to be a whale; however, after the International ban on whaling... not only do the whales not act aggressive anymore (they were known to attack a whaling boat or two in their day), but now they actually have been seen approaching people. Not one
Horned Shark
We spotted Many horned sharks along the beach. whale, but MANY.. even bringing their babies to the edges of the boats for whale massages. Massages! It is such a strikingly incredible story that whale naturalists like myself have told over and over. This is not just a single generational shift in whale/human relationships, but for some of these whales.. they were alive when they were being hunted and now.. they get rostrum rub! (for those of you who just raised your eyebrows... the rostrum is a fancy name for their nose). I guess these whales forgive... or maybe they forget. (but I think they forgive) It is a bay with multiple bays within, long beaches and sand dune islands. The water is a clear emerald with flounders and rays shuffling in the shallows. We found several dried out horned sharks on shore and millions of dried shrimps, scallop shells and fun ropey sea weed that looks like green surgical tubing. I took a "lesson" photo of a dolphin skeleton with the old fishing net still wrapped around him. Very sad. That is another lesson that must be taught as well. But not near as fun as the fact that whales are now interacting with people in an intimate
way. They are curious and gentle and are developing relationships with humans that is opposite of the relationship of the past.
We have seen many frigates, gulls, fishing osprey and 2 species of dolphins....rays, sharks, puffers. The water is colder, so fog rolled in earlier today enveloping us in a silky white curtain and our world disappeared around us. We have witnessed all of this amazing wildlife and amazing weather... beautiful conditions and interesting people and believe it or not... NOT A SINGLE WHALE. Not one. We know it is early in the season and we heard they were a bit "late" this year.. but not a whale. Geesh. We saw 2 last night under the moonlight. One breached twice out of the water in the night! I wonder if she heard us and wanted to see what was headed her way... who knows. But as of now.. they have not arrived and I am enjoying the bay and still dreaming of looking into the eye of one of the amazing gentle giants.
So we will depart in the morning for another short jump up the coast. I would be more upset if I didn't know
we would be sailing back here in the middle of whale season in a month or two, so I hope our luck changes. The crew is in good spirits. Colby and our delivery crew Brett spotted two "mascot" crabs in our sea strainer basket and named the Juanito and Pablo. So we have pets now. They are currently out spear fishing for flounders. The good thing is that Brett is a chef and fisherman, so if they catch, the work is their own! Sunset BBQ tonight~
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David Smith
non-member comment
So good to know
it is so nice to read of your travels... My name is David Smith and i had been a hand on Volpaia on and off over a ten year span finishing my last trip to Cuba not too long before the change of ownership. There was a deep sadness for me when i realized i would not sail on Volpaia again, i would miss laying on the warm teak, cooking dinners in the galley, sliding off the transom in to tropical waters, sunrise watch. Even more so the people I sailed with and the folks we met along the way. I can assure you the energy that graced that boat was pure... those i sailed with share your appreciation for the sea and the life within it. This small connection to Volpaia, your narrative on the world you experience around you lifts away the ache in my heart that had not wavered nor would leave me. Volpaia, her people and the adventures I have encountered have been a critical high point in my life, I would be most grateful to continue hearing of your passages. Should you ever follow the whales north on their migration please know I live in Victoria British Columbia and would be most delighted to host you in our neck of the woods. Originally a Southern Californian (Newport Beach) I moved to Canada once I had discovered this most perfect paradise, I never knew one could be so geographically content. I will watch for more postings, keep em coming, that or any communication is truly welcome. Wishing you safe passage. Dave.