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Pamukkale sunset
the sun goes down at PamukkaleHi.
Travel update:
I'm in Goreme sleeping in a cave
here. After Pamukkale, I spent a night in
Egirdir (this link has tons of awesome information about the place) and then took an extensive busride to Nevsehir where I was picked up by the hostel owner and driven to Goreme, where I'm typing this from. I'll be here several more days and don't know exactly what is next!
More of a story:
So last time I wrote you I was wading my way through the exotic calcium pools of Pamukkale with my Aussie friends. As it turned out, I got carried away using the Internet that day since I could finally download my pictures. I got a successful travelblog entry out of it but I lost my friends in the process. A crisis presented itself. Who will I watch the Turkish Cup with?!? Seeking an answer, I did what any reasonable backpacker would do. I ascended the calcium clad hill towards the pools of warm mineral water. Before I reached the first pool, I found myself shouting "Nastrailia!" to a duo of aspiring Slovenian police officiers! Yes oh yes, Zoran and Andraz had made their way from Marmaris (a
weekly market in Egirdir
every Thursday is a market in Egirdir few entries back) to Pamukkale. After updating each other quickly, soon arrived their new Italian female friends so of course we all went to eat some Turkish pizza together. We tried to open some beers there and were quickly repremanded so we held out until we returned to our hostel. On the way, I bought two more in cause my Aussie friends showed up. They did but the Slovenians had to leave! They had a night bus to Ankara. Damn those night buses! In their honor, we drank their beers and were passed a hukkah with several of the owners of the hostel. It was good fun.
The next day I bussed into Denizli with Theo and Diana (the Aussies have names!) to catch our connecting buses. We had an awesome day together and I really enjoyed their company; I wished them luck in their world tour (next stop: Thailand and Cambodia!) although we determined we may run into each other in Turkey yet. I was off to Egirdir, a lakeside town in the middle of Turkey. 3.5 hours later, we came over a hill that had an excellent view of Egirdir's lake that was absolutely breathtaking. Within 20
minutes, I was on the street in by far the most tourish unfriendly town so far (meaning there was no English and I was the only foriegner). Actually the place was very friendly. The first person who adressed me, I replied by showing a business card of a hostel in the town I had acquired from the previous stop. By some amazing bit of luck, this man was in fact the owner! So I was driven in luxury back to the hostel.
After dropping my bag and learning some important information from those I encountered, I headed off into town. It was Thursday which meant it was the weekly market day. The sidewalks were filled with people selling anything under the sun. Unfortunately it was raining though so it finished early. I didn't let it stop me so I broke out my Irish raincoat and hiked around the town and the surrounding mountain side. The overcast skies (together with my coat) mixed with the green hills and lakeside reminded me a lot of Ireland only here communicating with people couldn't be resolved by listening harder. But that didn't matter because the views and where breathtaking despite the weather, so
typical Goreme
Two dogs asleep on my lap at night in a cave while I drink Efes and read I'd like to think I made the best of it.
I ate fish at the hostel that night. The region (Turkish Lake District) is known for its seafood so I gave it a shot, and was not disappointed. The others present at the dinner where the hostel workers and their families. It was quite an endearing experience even though I only caught a few explanations of what was going on by my new friend (who was a coworker there) named Muslum. I got some journal writing done and planned for the next days in the meantime.
I bought my ticket the next day headed for Nevsehir which was a 9 hour ride (see title). In the morning, I did a few hikes up the mountains to get some snapshots of some nice views of Egirdir (which can be seen
here too). I also hung out a lot in the hostel that afternoon with Muslum, a very cool student who works at the hostel. The bus I got the ticket for was a bus destined for Eastern Turkey. Just prior, I filled myself with as many doners as possible but finally the bus arrived. I was by far the
only tourist on the bus. Anytime anyone said anything to me, I held up my ticket and pointed to the town I was trying to pronounce and trying to arrive at. It seemed to work. Even the lady in the full burka 3 seats up seemed to agree (it was the first I had seen in Turkey).
The bus of made several stops along the way to Nevsehir. The bathrooms always costed a little bit of money to use, but I didn't mind. They also always had a place to wash your feet, and a place to pray. My feet were quite clean, so I just hung out on the bus waiting for it to get going. Occassionally I bought some su (water) though, just to spice things up a bit.
I made it to Nevsehir and was greeted by the hostel owner who picked me up. It was nice to make it there and to be able to speak once again. I learned about the hostel and the area on the carride there and continued to learn more in the common area when reading and also conversing with Martin, a British traveler who had been in Capadocia
for weeks (and was apparrently authoring next years addition of the Rough Guide to South Korea). I was in good company and ready for the next day, having not really gotten a full feal for the region since I arrived past 10. Instead, I decided to wait until the next day to obtain full understanding so I retreated to my cave and went to bed.
Yes, I sleep in a cave. This place is known for their cave hostels. It's not as primitive as it sounds but yep, I'm roughin it. The region itself is much like Bryce Canyon NP in Utah but instead of being atop it and looking down, the actually rock columns and unique earth structures are very much integrated as part of the town and the region. Again, I'm going to have to put up pictures later as I can't download them at this netcafe at the moment!
Today, I hiked and hiked and hiked. I met two guys I met in Egirdir briefly and walked with them all day. Masa is from Japan and Jason is from Canada although he lived in Japan for quite a long while. They were on a 6
Jason and Masa in awe
at the Devrent Valley of the fairy chimneys in Capadocia month voyage zigzagging together across Europe, so fortunately our paths crossed on this delightful day in Capadocia as the weather was wonderful and our hiking shoes were well worn, by the end.
We had a rough map supplied by the hostel and had a destination in mind that was a solid 10 km away from the town. To get there, we walked up a road and then decended rapidly into the Rose Valley, named for the colors of the rock columns populating it. The walk was amazing and very pictureque. Within the rocks themselves were several caves, and some homes carved out of those caves, several dating back a thousand years (similar to Mesa Verde in SW US, although an entire region). The setting was actually used to film several Star Wars movies, we were told.
After Rose Valley we arrived to Cavusin, home of a VERY large "church" which was a giant series of cave-home-like structures caved into the side of a mountain. 20 minutes later we were inside the countless rooms exploring and snapping photos eagerly. We even stopped at another cave with some paintings on the walls dating back 1000 years. But not before getting some ice cream and some gozleme to satisfy our hunger. We're spoiled civilized folk after all, and Turkey's cheapness isn't helping matters.
Later we eventually made it to the Devrent Valley of the fairy chimneys, and pretended like we knew how to rock climb. It didn't matter because we got to share some stories and get to know each other along the way. Fortunately, I've met some really awesome people along the way here. But it started to matter after we were trying to get back to Goreme. We learned the hard way we had to walk about 6 km back to Avanos in order to get a dormus (bus) to Goreme. Don't you hate it when that happens? So after finding the otogar (bus station) and being asked awkward questions by the an otherwise happy family waiting next to us, we made it back to Goreme where I pounded a few beers (sorry Mom! I deserved it after all that!) and finally I'm in front of a computer, the only thing I know how to do. I think we had to have walked a solid 24+ km today but it was wicked fun, and I hope Jason and Masa luck on their journey to Portugal (and eventually Masa will be moving to Vancouver, so I'll see him in the fall!).
So I'm off to the cave. My current thoughts are to chill here a bit to give you all time to comment and also to relax as it's quite backpacker friendly being cheap and having a lot of activities to offer. I *may* go further east to
Mt Nemrut but it seems pretty expensive for Turkish travel (110 Euro for 2 days and 150 for 3; I sleep for 4 Euro at the moment and a busride for 9 hours costs about 15). I fly out of Antalya after midnight on the 14th (early AM the 15th), so I have to go south eventually. I want to go to Olmypus then to sleep in a treehouse!
Thanks again for the emails and whatnot. I'll add pictures later,
brad
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muslum
non-member comment
hii
hii mate, how are you how is going your holiday... i'm happy meeting with you where are you now? we are now quiet busy and have a some more exam (you know all is easy for always) :) anyway. i ll wait your mail. if you have a any time ;) thx a lot have a nice holiday bye sincerely...