Poorly in Potosi :(

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We only stayed in Salta for two nights and then made our way over the Bolivian border (via some Argentinian roadblocks by protesting national unionist members) to Tupiza, 3000 m above sea level. Not only was this a different country, it was a different world. Being in Chile and Argentina had fooled me, going to Bolivia was like stepping back in time but with funny anachronistic touches such as the fake English Premiership football shirts and trainers for sale in the various markets I have seen so far.
I thought San Pedro de Atacama was dusty, but Bolivia takes the biscuit!! First stop in Bolivia was Tupiza, close to where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were eventually cornered and killed. After an overnight here we travelled onto Potosi, an eye watering 4200 m above sea level. Potosi is famous for the Cerro Rico (Rich Hill), a mammoth mountain that yielded copious amounts of silver and other precious minerals from the start of its mining in the 16th century. Potosi also has a tragic history with over 8 million indigenous Indians and African slaves dying in the appalling conditions of the mine while funding the Spanish monarchy and their wars for over 400 years. The Spanish actually based their mint here and shipped the coins over to Europe. Cerro Rico is still being mined today in much the same conditions, but now it belongs to the Bolivians.
I went on a trip down one of the 500 or so mines through original 16th century tunnels. I met El Tio (or George) the god of the mountain, and we offered him coca leaves, cigarettes and an unbelievably potent mixture of 96% alcohol for safe passage in the mine. The miners are very superstitious and pay great respect to El Tio and Mama Pacha (Mother Earth). After drinking some of the alcohol, which actually evaporated in my mouth, I am not surprised they are superstitious. The dust and cramped conditions were unbelievable, and the miners work without any automated machinery. They work 12 hour shifts, 6 times a week. Having seen this I shall never again grumble about getting out of my cosy bed to go to work.
It was such an interesting experience, plus it is probably the first and last time that I shall run with a lighted stick of dynamite in my hand. And believe me, trying to run at 4200 m above sea level is not an easy experience. Dynamite is available to buy on the street, so up on Cerro Rico we decided to do a little mining of our own with the help of a couple of already deceased chickens and some ammonium nitrate. Im pretty sure this part of the trip did not meet any Health and Safety regulations.
After changing my overalls we headed down to Potosi town and had a wander around. It is a strange mix of beautifully restored colonial buildings and what basically amounts to slums. During the afternoon and evening the altitude (and probably some dodgy food) finally got to me and I succumbed to an uncomfortable night - I´ll spare the details. Everybody has been feeling poorly to various degrees with the altitude, it really is amazing how it affects you. Just walking makes you out of breath, and alcohol is a killer no-no. It is already incredibly cheap to drink in Bolivia (one litre of local beer costs around 5 Bolivianos, which is approximately 33p) but with the altitude you only need one and slurring and stumbling are the main order of the day.

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Photos

El Tio
Plus real life miner to the left

Comments

[Team Southey]

What a big sparkler !
Always knew you were dyanmite ...love the suit ...and the hat ...at least it`s not lycra or rubber .Hope you`re feeling better now ..and your mates are letting you back on the bus with them !!!!Seems futile to say Take Care ,as I gaze at the pic of you with dynamite in your Hand ..but Take care ...xxxxxxxxloads of love xxxxxxxUs and Marms xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

[Yorkies]

Poorly?
Probably that half a cow you had in Argentina!!