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Published: November 20th 2010
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Another long, Successful day in SPb! This morning at breakfast, I gave the porridge a try. Even though it was the instant variety, I must say that these Russians certainly know their porridge! That, along with black bread toast, a hard boiled egg and some cheese and I was properly fortified for venturing out into the cold blustery morning. The temperature seems to have been dropping since I arrived. Today was no exception and as I climbed out of the subway station closest to the Peter and Paul Fortress, a light snow began to swirl around. It was the perfect backdrop as I made my way through a small park and over the wooden bridge to the island fortress. The snow let up quickly and I spent a good part of the day wandering around and visiting the various museums and sights on the island.
The Swedes and the Russians have fought over the area for centuries. Alexander Nevsky (as in Nevsky Prospect) made his name by defeating a Swedish invasion back in the 13th Century. The island in the Neva was the perfect spot to build a stronghold, and later a city, to cement Russia's hold on the territory.
Peter the Great personally oversaw the consruction of his new western style capital. On the island, the Peter and Paul Cathedral was built with it's tall, thin spire visible for miles.
The cathedral soon became the most important royal religious center and burial place for the Romanov Dynasty from Peter on down. The remains of the last Czar, Nicholas II and his family. (who had been murdered by Bolsheviks in 1918 and mysteriously hidden in the forests outside Yekatrinburg) were located, identified and subsequently interred in the Cathedral in 1998. The interior is filled with gilded tracery and austere tombs. A fascinating and impressive place to visit!
Nearby, I climbed up onto the Neva rampart walkway for a cold and windy veiw of the rest of the city across the river. At noon they fire a very loud cannon up on the rampart. People even cheered when it went off!
Other museums which I visited on the island included The Museum of City History in the Commandant's House, a Prison Museum in a former prison compound used to house important political prisoners and a nifty Russian space exploration museum.
Heading back across the river (over a
very long, cold bridge), I swung by the Church of the Savior on the Spilled Blood (so nicknamed because it was built on the site of the assassination of Czar Alexander II). Great onion domes and adornment on the church. As it is the most photographed church in St. Petersburg, of course there were plenty of bridal parties there getting their pictures taken. I've been seeing such groups all over town for the last few days. Apparently Russian brides and grooms love having their nuptial photo albums fattened by dozens of pictues of the happy couple cavorting at historical sites. Another tradition seems to be locking a padlock bearing a couple's names onto the ironwork of bridges and canal fences in the area. The place is just littered with them.
On the way back toward Nevsky Prospect and the closest Metro station, I stopped into a self service restuarant for my late afternoon repast. It turned out to be an enjoyable meal in clean, pleasant surroundings. It was fairly busy, so I could just point at dishes other people were getting, as well as at the pictures with broken english descriptions. I ended up with a salad, a baked
cheesy potato dish, Chicken Kiev, a mushroom wrapped with meat and wonderful piece of chocolate cake (Perhaps my birthday cake? Tomorrow's the day!).
After a short stroll On Nevsky Pr. (taking in the Kazan Cathedral and some expensive shopping areas) I caught the subway back to the hotel.
There in the lobby I first caught sight of my prodigal bag! It was welcomed back into my loving arms. If I wasn't so full of Chicken Kiev, I would have killed a fatted calf and celebrated into the night. Instead I whisked the wayward luggage into my room, checked to make sure everything was safe and sound, and settled in to Skype call friends and family to tell them of the joyous reunion. With my trusty netbook already all fired up, I connected to my Hava Player back home and watched the Wisconsin Football game from the comfort of my bed.
The Badgers beat Michigan to round out my evening nicely! Go Big Red! (can you still say that here?) Now it's time to repack and prepare for tomorrow night's excursion on the "Red Arrow" train to Moscow.
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Liz Valdez
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Happy Birthday and wow!
Your trip looks great and Happy pre-birthday here! I am glad you have your luggage and you had a cahnce to watch the Badgers win.