Rubens in Antwerpen Centraal

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Today got off to a slightly disappointing start as there were no croissants or pastries for breakfast! Things perked up, however, as we walked along the riverside to the train station, bound for Antwerp.
As we neared the station Clare decided we were in the wrong place but I disagreed - it turned out I was right. However, my victory was short lived when I realised that the Interrail tickets required to get reduced reservation fees (or even fares free of charge) were not in my bag and I had left them back at the Hostel...1-1. Instead of trapesing all the way back to the Bauhaus we reluctantly forked out the 30 Euro charge for two returns, paid the grumpy man, and continued with a large dint in our daily budget.

After leaving the very grand and very impressive station, Antwerp looked like any other big city. Plenty of McDonalds, plenty of beggars, and plenty of buskers - though the buskers of Antwerp are cut from a finer cloth than the wailing lunatics on Northumberland St. in Newcastle.
We headed down the high street and soon found Rubenshuis, a small museum come gallery that offers a selection of paintings and furnishings that inhabited the dwelling under Rubens occupancy. After the two German swines with a disregard for the conventions of the queueing system finally did one, we found it was a fine display and the free mini guide was a nice touch, but it lacked the atmosphere of a great gallery. The final room of the gallery was an absolute treat, and exhibited Rubens' 'The Annunciation' which was spectacular. Clare was partial to a painting by two of Rubens apprentices which was called 'Farmers going to Market' as she liked the argument a dog appeared to be having with a swan.

After Rubenshuis we made our way in the direction of the Vrouwekathedraal, the largest gothic cathedral in Belgium, with the ethos that we would see a spire before we got lost. Our plan paid off and pretty soon the spiral hoved into view, as did the most enormous dog I have ever seen!
We made our way through the market and bought a reduced ticket for 3 Euros each - the youth fares have saved us a great deal already and are a godsend for the budget traveller. We were told that only flash photography was prohibited and that we would be able to get photos and film footage of Rubens' 'Raising of the Cross', 'Descent from the Cross' and 'The Assumption of the Virgin', a priviledge that we fully utilised. The paintings were astonishinig and I swiftly brushed many others aside and scampered my way to the masterpieces. Simply staggering.
Clare came away, having been previously unaware of Rubens, a big fan.

On leaving the Cathedral we noticed a pretty building down a narrow alleyway, and with no other immediate plans we headed towards it. We had in fact accidentally stumbled upon Grote Market Square, where we sat on a bench and soaked in the weather, architecture, smell of chocolate and restaurants, watched little dogs and big horses pulling carts and carriages, and listened to the sound of the fountain as the water splatted off the floor. Grote Market Square has something that the main square at the Belfry in Brugge doesnt have...character. Where Brugge is simply a hotspot with pretty buildings, Antwerp's counterpart has life. Nowhere have I seen beauty unscathed by the throng of tourism quite like here. We sat a long while in appreciation and then decided to find a bakery.

On the train back to Brugge Clare and I reflected on our day. Clare expressed that as well as having found appreciation for Rubens, she also wishes to make the releasing of cows into the wild her 'thing' - her logic being that as there are wild boars, a variant of the humble pig, there ought to be some form of wild cow - I wish her the very best of luck.

Back in Brugge we had a final few beers at our local haunt and bid the Dutch owner good night.
Munich tomorrow. Hopefully I won't forget the train tickets this time.

With Love...Blake and Clare

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Comments

[Angela Wiper]

Humphry
Hey guys Sounds like you are having a great time, i love reading your blog - i agree with Clare we need to recognise we have 'wild cows' in our midst - hehe. About the ticket.....someone should have used my small black travel bag to keep everything in and on them at all times...lol Make the most of everyday - lots of love Humphry xxx