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Published: June 27th 2010
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Let me begin with an explanation of the title for this travelogue. A year ago, I happened upon a television show documenting the travels of two friends exploring the world in search of new places, new people, and new memories. The show, departures, is filmed with panoramic landscapes showing the vastness of the earth, while also examining its hidden edges. Inspired by the contagious passion of these travelers to experience what the world has to offer, I delved back into the GAP Adventures brochure and, with a companion for one adventure, I found the perfect complement for another - sailing the “wine dark seas” of the Mediterranean from Athens to Mykonos. The goal - to find new places, new people, and new memories.
While in Greece three years ago, I did achieve this goal, but I wanted to take another, more adventurous look at the country and its people. This recent trip to Greece promised a number of serious firsts - I’d been sailing, kayaking, and hiking before, but never to this degree - as my travel companion said, I’m the “city mouse,” not the “country mouse”.
Sailing through the Greek islands has been on my to-do list and
when the opportunity knocked to arrive in Greece a week before I met my travel companion for the Crete adventure, I opened the door and walked right in. Well, it really wasn’t a door I walked through, but rather strategically stepped across a plank onto Marialena, a fifty-foot sailing vessel that would take me and seven others through the Cyclades. Our crew was composed of eight adventure seekers, primarily from North America (Ben, we’ll claim you as Canadian), in addition to our Irish captain, Vince. After introductions and dinner at a local taverna, we remained anchored at Piraeus (Athens’ port) and attempted to sleep in our “spacious” bunks, before setting sail the next day.
After a grocery store run, stocking up on essential provisions, we set sail around the southeast coast of Greece. The scenery was never redundant as new islands always appeared on the horizon, offering glimmers of hope should anything happen while at sea! The blue sea, rocky cliffs, and fellow sailboats passed by as we relaxed on the deck. Vince’s rule was that if we wanted to go for a swim, we couldn’t test the water - a dive was a must. The middle of the
Aegean Sea doesn’t promise the same temperatures as the beach resorts along the shore and as my head reared above the water, the captain pointed out that I was shivering…yes, it was a tad chilly. As we sailed around the final point, the fifth century B.C. Temple of Poseidon appeared before us, perched upon a cliff as a reminder to sailors, both ancient and modern, of the deity who offered safe travels across the often treacherous Aegean. Anchoring in the bay at Cape Sunion, Vince rowed us over to the mainland, enjoying sunset from the Temple and standing amongst stones carved over two thousand years ago. Following dinner, and back on the ship, we ended the evening looking up at the glowing Temple, ending a great first day at sea.
Heading out into open sea, we set course for the island of Kea, an ancient ally of Athens during the Persian War. One of the many highlights of the trip was anchoring just off of the island and swimming over to a secluded beach to relax, listen to the waves, and enjoy one of the best club sandwiches ever. Back on the boat, we motored to the dock, sighting
a small pod of dolphins jumping in the distance. A short walk around the small port led us to churches and a local graveyard overlooking the water. We decided to take a trek before dinner to seek out what is famed to be the oldest stone monument in Greece, a carved lion, dating to around 600 B.C. This was no easy trek, especially for those who are afraid of spiders the size of toonie coins hanging from trees above our heads. After a few frantic moments watching out for these killers (they were probably harmless), we reached the lion and snapped some quick shots before heading back before the sun set. We arrived at Orlando’s Restaurant, a family-run taverna that is well-known around the island for its fantastic food and personal attention to customers by the owner, Rolando. Filled with stories to last a life-time, Orlando made sure that we were satisfied with our dinners and offered heaps of advice and stories on marriage, life, and leaving a restaurant for his sons to run on Corfu.
The next day saw a smooth sail to Kynthos - a quiet island despite the whistle-blowing dock agent who was adamant about how
we anchored. With a population just over 1,500, Kynthos offers views of white-washed houses stacked against barren mountains. Moreover, the island also offers small hot springs, boiling just out of touch of the cool Aegean waters. At 5:30am, a group of us braved the chilly morning to sit in the spring and watch the sun rise over the sailing masts of Kynthos’ harbour.
Sailing was calm up to this point. The sails had been raised to light winds as we glided through the waters, but that was all about to change. Winds were blowing up to eight knots and quickly turned into gales. While below deck, trying to keep my breakfast down, a sharp (and loud) snap was heard up on deck, followed by the captain saying “this is a disaster” (GAP sailing crew - you know the adjective that should be inserted). Called up to deck (thankfully adrenaline kicked in and I was able to stand up), we were able to bring in the sail, the only casualty being a snapped rope. Thankfully, our next destination, the island of Syros, was close and we pulled into port in one piece.
Syros, the capital of the Cycladic
islands, has a busy port, but also a picturesque dichotomy of its religious history. Situated on two hills, both overlooking the harbour, are the Catholic church of Agios Yiorgios and the Greek Orthodox church of the Anastasis. After walking the streets in search of the main square (and disrupting an angry local dog), we rewarded ourselves with a freddoccino (an iced coffee filled with bits of chocolate).
With the threat of delay leaving Syros the next day, we walked along the boardwalk, on the look-out for a local bakery where we could stock up for that evening’s dinner, prepared by the newlyweds, Ben and Tanya. Setting sail around 3pm (and somehow loosing a fender on our way), we had just the right winds to carry us to Mykonos, anchoring off-shore amongst posh yachts. The next morning, we followed the coast of Mykonos, passing by the archaeologically-rich Delos, and arrived in the new harbour of Mykonos Town. As a final bonding experience, the nine of us rented ATVs and set-off beach hopping around the island. Never having driven an ATV, I was a little apprehensive, but after the first round-about (!), Gloria (my co-pilot) and I conquered the bends and
arrived at Paradise Beach. Trust me, going downhill is a lot easier than up-hill, as Gloria discovered as she took the reins and got us back up to the “main” road and over to the next beach. After a few beaches, we were ready to head back to Marialena and prepare for our final night together. The Skandanavian Bar (where I talked my way into a free t-shirt), Mykonos Bar, and back to the Skandanavian Bar…you get the picture - a great time was had by all with lots of laughs, dancing, drinks, and an exhausted taxi ride back “home” around 4am.
With fond farewells to all, I stepped across the plank one last time and jumped onto the back of Ben’s ATV, suitcase secured to the back, on my way to Mykonos Airport to begin the next adventure - kayaking and hiking the southwest coast of Crete. Stay tuned for another arrival.
New places - the south coast of Attica and three stunning Cycladic islands. New people - a fantastic “crew”. New memories - sailing the Aegean documented in over 300 photographs. Did I achieve the goal - definitely.
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Harcus
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Loved it
Great commentary and loved the photos. Looking forward to the next installment!