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Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Rhodes December 24th 2023

By far the largest and historically the most important of the Dodecanese islands, Rhodes abounds in beaches, wooded valleys, and ancient history. Whether you’re here on a culture-vulture journey through past civilizations, or simply for some laidback beach time, buzzing nightlife, or diving in crystal-clear waters, it’s all here. The atmospheric Old Town of Rhodes is a maze of cobbled streets that will spirit you back to the days of the Byzantine Empire and beyond. Further south, in the picture-perfect town of Lindos, capped by an ancient Acropolis, sugar-cube houses spill down to a turquoise bay. While both Lindos and Rhodes Old Town get very crowded in summer, Rhodes is large enough to allow plenty of room to breathe that pure Aegean air. A Little Bit of History: the island was inhabited in the Neolithic period, ... read more
Acropolis overlooking St. Paul's Bay
Crumbling walls of Mandraki Harbor
Original Site of the Colossus of Rhodes

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Santorini »  Ia October 19th 2023

I have only been to a few. Here are mine, out of the top 30 listed by "Far and Wide" article. Tattered Cover (Denver) Tattered Cover Book Store is the largest independent bookseller in Colorado, with six locations around the Denver metro area. Joyce Meskis, who owned Tattered Cover from 1974 until her retirement in 2017, was a high-profile activist for literacy and freedom of expression. The stores sell a mix of used and new books, and host over 500 literacy and community events each year in-store. The current owners continue Meskis’ mission to defend free speech and build knowledge and intellectual curiosity through books and reading. The Last Bookstore (Los Angeles) When owner Josh Spencer opened his now iconic bookstore in downtown Los Angeles in 2005, he was certain it would only last three years ... read more
Love the layout

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Santorini October 17th 2023

Santorini is probably the most popular island destination for tourists in Greece. It is actually the smallest of the Cyclades island chain, but it is special because it was formed by volcanic eruption. The three cities of Santorini sit high on top of the cliffs that form the caldera of the volcano, with three small uninhabited islands in the middle, one of them an active volcano. There are three other volcanoes near Santorini, all undersea, so they are not visible. Since they are all active, with the last eruption in 1950, I was a bit uneasy the whole time. One of our drivers said that when the experts begin to see activity, the locals will have three days to completely vacate the island and hopefully make it to safety before it erupts. It is geologically very ... read more
Tram to the top
Oia skyline
Bouganvilla

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Mykonos October 14th 2023

After my 12 hour coma I awoke in front of a picturesque new island and ready for a fresh start. Mykonos is unofficially known as the island for the jet-setters. While they cater to the thousands of tourists that visit everyday, they are more well known for their night life and ability to party. Since that is not really my scene, I was happy to oblige their economy with a stroll through the most amazing streets. It doesn’t really matter where you start, all paths lead back to the oceanfront. That is by ancient design, not modern ingenuity. The winding paths lead two many forks and even today are unlabeled with street names. In ancient times, this was a defense strategy. Invaders would get lost and frustratingly end up back in the same place. Only those ... read more
Big fat cat at dock
Selfie with our ship
Blue door, blue dress

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 10th 2023

Today’s the last full day of the art tour, which is making us both feel very sad. But what’s even sadder is not being able to enjoy it with the rest of the Rembrandts. Issy’s almost back to 100%, but we’re still feeling just slightly nervous about passing on the dreaded virus to others in the group. We decide to stay put while they head off on a boat to produce yet more masterpieces at a small garden over on the other side of Telendos Island. We spend the morning in the now familiar confines of our COVID isolation balcony. My itchy feet eventually need scratching so I head off for a wander. First up is the village harbour which is well populated with cute little fishing boats. The road around the waterfront is a tad ... read more
Myrties harbour
Myrties harbour and Telendos
Myrties

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 9th 2023

Issy seems to be improving by the day, and I think cabin fever may well now have overtaken COVID as the biggest threat to her sanity, if not her health. The Rembrandts will apparently be spending the day “painting from a taverna on a stunning fjord” at Vathy on the other side of the island. We’re probably still too contagious to risk sitting in a bus with them, but I’m sure they‘ll produce some suitably realistic artwork to show us where they’ve been. It’s quite nice sitting up here on our balcony, or it would be if it wasn’t for the smell. It seems that the sewer at the hotel next door’s blocked, and a truck’s turned up to try to clear it out. Sewer problems are apparently almost a way of life in Greece. We ... read more
Pothia
Masouri Beach
Pothia waterfront

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 8th 2023

So here we both are, stuck in COVID isolation in our hotel suite. Issy’s thankfully feeling a bit better today, but not really well enough to go anywhere. And anyway, I think she still needs to be avoiding crowds for a day or so yet, and then only with a mask for a few days after that. So what to write about when by far the most exciting event for the day was a thrilling trip to the supermarket, with mask on of course, to stock up on a few essential supplies. Actually that wasn’t the day’s most exciting event, but more about that later. My throng of faithful subscribers, all five of you, will be pleased to know that in order to fill in a few hours I’ve formulated a new law. Some other bored ... read more
The hotel bar
The COVID isolation balcony

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 7th 2023

Issy wasn’t at all well for most of yesterday and she’s woken up feeling just as bad if not worse, which sucks for her. A cold‘s been circulating through the group, and it looks like it’s made its way through to my beloved. Her face and throat hurt, so she thinks she‘s also got sinusitis or tonsillitis. We’d heard that you could get antibiotics over the counter in Greece, but the hotel receptionist tells us that they shut off that little loophole a few years back. So it looks like we’re off to the island’s hospital. We saw this in the dark on the way here the other night, and were told that the Italians built it when they occupied Kalymnos during the Second World War. I hope someone‘s got around to updating it at some ... read more
Telendos

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 6th 2023

We awake to see our surroundings in daylight for the first time. The spectacular soaring rocky peak of the small island of Telendos is only a few hundred metres offshore. I opt for a lazy morning while Issy joins the rest of the Rembrandts for an art session at a bar a few hundred metres down the road. … well I thought that’s what she said, but I was half asleep when she left. An art session in a bar? Hmmm. Issy and I have been allocated the hotel’s penthouse. It’s about twice the size of all the other rooms, and it’s got a massive balcony, and a jacuzzi. Our fearless leader Diana booked the whole hotel out about a year ago. She told us she had to put someone in the penthouse and we just ... read more
Telendos
Masouri Beach
Masouri Beach

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 5th 2023

We’re on the move again today, this time to the island of Kalymnos, which is about a five hour ferry ride north-east of Astypalea. It feels like we’re on a real Greek ferry. It’s small, some might say cosy, and makes the Blue Star monsters we’ve been on to date look like cruise ships by comparison. Issy and boats have sometimes not been a good mix. But it’s OK, there’s a small cafe on board. My beloved’s led me to understand that ginger is a good remedy for seasickness, so no great surprise that she asks me if I could buy her some ginger beer. The man behind the counter doesn’t speak a lot of English, but enough to respond that he doesn’t have any of that, but lots of Heineken and Mythos. I’m not entirely ... read more
Ship leaving Kos, with Turkey in the background
Nerantzia Castle, Kos
Astypalea




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