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Normal Route of Muztagh Ata
Normal Route of the Muztagh Ata West side MUZTAGH ATA (7546M)- CHINA CLIMBING/ SKIING EXPEDITION
Muztagh Ata means “Father of Ice Mountains” in local language Kazakh and Uigur, both are Turkish dialects. The massif of Muztagh Ata lies in the Kunlun Shan range on the high plateau in Western China, where nomadic herders line and tend their roving flocks. It is a huge mountain-massive, which consists of two summits, one of them is 7546m high and other is 7130m. The distance between them is 2 km. This program gives possibility to ascent both summits from the same Base Camp of Muztagh Ata. It takes 15-20 days to main summit according to the professional level of participants. It is second highest peak in this range and world’s easiest peak in above 7500 meters. Trek to the Base Camp sets us up for the climb and allows us to experience the diversity of the landscape and its people.
Background:
First tries to climb Muztagh Ata were made in 1894 by Swedish geographers Sven Hedin from the West. In his two attempts he reached same altitude of 6300m. The first historic ascent of the Muztagh Ata summit had been realized in 1956 by Soviet-China expedition led by Eugene Beletsky following
Muztagh Ata 7546M from Karakol Lake
View of Muztagh Ata 7546M-China from Karakol Lake the route outlined by Hedin. In 1980 an American group was allowed to climb and ski, they broke world female record an altitude ski. This is only ski peak in the world in 7500m. Following them there were many expeditions from all over the world is crowed with success so far.
ROUTE:
The normal route of Muztagh Ata from West, not difficult technically and good for not competent mountaineers, because of high altitude above the sea level all along the route participants should be well prepared. The climb is very straightforward technically and suitable for the skiers who want to combine skiing with trip high altitude in the Himalayas. It is considered to be the easiest peak in the world in 7500m peaks. Alternative Muztagh Ata is superb place to discover the world of high altitude climbing. With summit reaching 7546m, this expedition is excellent preparation for an 8000M-peak climb.
HIGHER CAMPS:
The Base camp is at the altitude of the about 4450m and higher camps are set up normally around at the altitude of about,
Camp-I (5200m)
Camp-II (6200m)
Camp-III (6800m)
SUITABLE PERIOD:
The suitable period to climb to Muztagh Ata is from June
Higher Camp at Muztagh Ata 7546M
View from the Higher cam Of Muztagh Ata 7546M to mid of September but the best is 20th of June to mid of August. Because the weather condition is most suitable, possibility of a successful summit is much higher than other period. The expeditions have face some difficulties of deep snow in early June and fresh fall in September.
DURATION:
28 to 30 days from Islamabad to back Islamabad
TIME SUMMERY:
The trip to Muztagh Ata starts from Islamabad and travel towards the border on Karakoram Highway then cross the Khunjerab Pass 4733M, highlands of the country to Western China. Traveling through Pakistan is unique experience that will have you captivated during the entire journey, traveling in cities and the Karakuram Highway. The landscape is striking in some places it has sheer, snow-capped mountains ascending from deep valleys, and in others, lush alpine meadows carpeted in colorful wildflowers and dazzling apple Blossoms. Each day in Pakistan provides a new and exciting scene, and this alone is why the experience has gained such popular support from international travelers. Colorful lifestyles are encountered as you acclimatize along the way.
The Karakorum Highway is one of the highest and most spectacular roads in the world. A highway that
Ski on the Muztagh Ata 7546M
Ski on the mountain of Muztagh Ata 7546M-China cuts through the crest of the Karakoram Range affording unrivalled views of the snow capped peaks, while linking the historic cultures of South and North and the Hunza valley with Kashghar and Central Asia.
The journey takes you through the historical cities of Taxila then driving on Karakuram Highway to Besham- Chilas through the Khoistan to Gilgit by passing beneath the huge ramparts of Mount Nanga Parbat (8126m). Gilgit is also connected with Islamabad by air (small aero-plane, ATR) but the operation is subjected to the weather condition. It is mountain flight, takes one hour and it is like air safari. From here you will cross the Himalayan chain by driving on Karakuram Highway to Hunza Valley through the soaring summit of Rakaposhi (7788m) as you slowly ascend to the Khunjerab Pass (4733m) into China to begin your ascent.
Day-01: Arrival to Islamabad airport and transfer to the hotel, in the rest of time sightseeing in Islamabad/ Rawalpindi or shopping, meals and overnight at hotel
Day -02: Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs, on Karakuram Highway/overnight at hotel
Day-03: Continue to Karimabad 7-8hrs, overnight in the hotel
Day-04: Continue to Sost 7-8 hrs overnight at hotel
Day-05: Drive to Tashkurgan
Higher Camps on the Muztagh Ata 7546M
View of camps on the Muztagh Ata Peak via Khunjerab Pass and continue to Karakul Lake, overnight at yurt
Day-06:Trek to the Base Camp, overnight at tents
Day-07-21: 14-days for acclimatization and climb
Day-22: Back to Karakul Lake, overnight at yurt
Day-23: Drives back to Tashkurgan, clear the custom formalities and drive to Sost then continue to Karimabad-Hunza, overnight at hotel
Day-24: Sightseeing
Day-25: Proceed to Gilgit or Chilas, overnight at hotel
Day-26: Drive to Islamabad, overnight at hotel
Day-27: Day free in Islamabad (preparation for the departure)/hotel
Day-28: Departure from Islamabad (drop to the airport)
EXPEDITION MEMBER EXPERIENCE:
Although Muztagh Ata is an extremely easy and low angle mountain, there are hazards present and member should have knowledge of roped climbing techniques to protect the crevasses-fall. It is also required that all the members will have awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite and recognition of their symptoms, prevention and treatment. If they are skiing or snow boarding, they must be expert. Above Camp-I all the members must roped to another team member.
VISA:
You need visa for both separately for Pakistan and China, which you can obtain from embassies or consulates in your country. For Pakistan you need two-entry visa because you are entering
Map of Muztagh Ata Peak
Map of Muztagh Ata 7546M -China twice to Pakistan.
NORTH PAKISTAN ADVENTURE
Trekking, Tours and Expeditions
Tel: 0092-51-2535766
Fax: 0092-51-2855440
Mobile: 0092-333-5276586
northpak@isb.comsats.net.pk
northpakistan@dsl.net.pk
ishaq_jan@yahoo.com
www.north-pakistan.com
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Dmitriy
non-member comment
muztagh-ata peak
We're 5 person who planning muztagh-ata peak for the next year. which period is the best for this? what about the price? disconts? what price for the rent equipments? Thanks. Dmitriy