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Tuesday May 18, Alturas, California:
Last night's discussion with Jerome and Dennis convinced me my off-pavement plans for NW Nevada and riding the Black Rock Playa were clearly rained out. The all-night rains dumped 0.6 in of rain on the Playa. During dinner the rain softened up the ground enough to allow the wind to pull out a couple of my tent stakes. A quick adjustment with some large rocks to secure them, and I crawled in the tent for a night of rain.
The rain stopped before dawn, and the ground was soaked. After a nice hot spring morning shower I pondered the options. Since riding the desert back roads was out, which paved riding did I want to pursue?
Four options were on the table: head NE and back up into SE Oregon, head NW up into Southern Oregon, head SE to Winnemucca and Northern Nevada, or head SW toward Alturas and Northern California.
By far and away, the most appealing paved riding is in Northern California, however, about 60 miles of gravel county road lie in the way.
County road 8E is graveled and graded, and I was told by several campers that this was
Treads Filled with Mud
Makes that tire slick, wish they were knobbies. an "all-weather" road. I also understand that with several hours of sun, the slippery gumbo returns to hardness, and there was a mix of sun and clouds this morning. I packed up camp and headed off.
Arriving at 8E I rode a short distance and stopped to ponder my decision to make this 60 mile wet gravel run.
The initial stretch of road was graveled, but the bike felt somewhat unstable, requiring standing on the pegs to feel in control. I didn't want to crash out here riding alone, but I could ride slow enough to minimize crash consequences. I didn't want to cave to my fears and pass on the adventure of trying something outside my experience level. I figured if it got too untenable, I could turn back (never mind the fuel issue).
So off I went. The first 10 miles or so were ridden about 20mph, rising on the pegs maybe 10% of the time when the back end got squirrley. After a while I learned what the slippery spots looked like and anticipation helped a lot.
When the road crossed into Washoe County, the road surface improved remarkably, with much more well graded gravel.
Assessing the Surface
60 miles of this? Hmmm........ For a while.
The drying of the gumbo? It was mid 40s and cloudy, with an occasional sprinkle. Things were not drying yet. After a while I came through sections that had little or no gravel, and the surface was incredibly slippery. In some spots both ends of the bike got loose.
A handful of times, I had a moment. I'm riding into a bad stretch on the pegs, both ends of the bike break loose, and I have this thought about panic, crack off the throttle, or hit the brake (rear). In that moment, I know that doing so would guarantee a crash. So I rely on what I know (not yet as muscle memory or practiced experience) and have marginally practiced. The throttle is my friend, more gas tends to get you out of trouble, flex the knees and lightly squeeze the tank, steering with peg weight, keep a loose grip on bars. Look exactly where you want to go and lead with your torso, the bike will follow.
When you get through one of those gumbo sections and the gravel returns, it is a great to reflect how all those elements worked. And in that
experience you advance your skills. Now instability cause less concern, and you have expanded your skills. This feels great, the reward of adventure.
So as the ride continued, the surface did begin to dry, and the slippery sections grew infrequent. The utter desolation of this high Nevada desert was remarkable. In the three hours on this road there was not one vehicle. Except Arturo's.
Coming over a rise, I spotted a pickup and horse trailer parked off the road, and a cowboy saddling his horse. Arturo, a Hispanic gentleman who lives about 20 miles away in Cedarville, rides for the Double Horseshoe Ranch. They are a small outfit, running only 850 mother cows. He was out checking on a herd of about 100 to look in on the baby calfs. He wore spurs, a ballcap, and a lunchbag over his shoulder. Not the duster-wearing cowboys of Frying Pan Flat, but a working cowboy nonetheless. He recommended some lodging and dining in Cedarville.
The final section of 8E became bone dry, with little gravel, and smooth. I was riding at a comfortable 50mph in spots. The California state line is 11 miles from Cedarville , and the paved
Here It Is: Wet Gumbo
Notice the absence of gravel (pucker factor elevation) Hwy 299 begins. A stop to air up the tires and it's into town.
Cedarville seemed like a great spot to stay, as I was ready to get back on-line and check the weather. I went into the Surprise Cafe, only to find they town's power was out until 9pm. Had an iced coffee and rode on to Alturas. My usual $49 Essex Motel didn't seem like such a deal when I saw the $40 sign on the Hacienda. Nicest $40 room by far.
Walked to a Mexican Restaurant for dinner and retired early.
Looks like the weather will be mixed with some real wetness arriving by the end of the week. Northern California twisties beckon.
Stay tuned.
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Don
non-member comment
Too much fun
It seems that you are having a bit too much fun.....Time to return to the real world. Mr B