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I don't think that I've ever really cried out of happiness. Sure, I've choked back a few tough tears at a few events in my life but not really had a good cry ... but this achievement took me to that place.
While I was on the Inca trail one of my group was excitedly telling me about a peak in Bolivia that was over the magic 6000m and was suitable for 'beginners'. I was interested! I hadn't really considered or researched much about Bolivia as the good news about extending my career break had only come through in recent weeks - so suddenly I had an itinerary to create!
On reaching La Paz I settled into my nice hostel and decided to have a day or so relaxing and seeing the sights before making any plans. So, suitably chilly from my bus journey (for some reason buses here are freezing!) I headed out for some lunch. Feeling refreshed from that I made it about 10 paces from the cafe door before bumping into a guy I'd met in Copacabana who raved excitedly to me that he had found a good company, good price and the trip started tomorrow!
What?? All, my wonderful plans for a lie-in were getting blown to pieces again!
So, within two hours of getting to La Paz I was booked to leave again. The company didn't seem very interested in my fitness - just in the amount of time I'd spent at altitude - maybe this wasn't going to be so bad?
By late the following morning our little group of 6 were kitted out with plastic boots, crampons, ice axes, thermal and windproof layers, sleeping bags and even headlamps or sunglasses if we didn't have them. Ok the gear wasn't brand new but I was really impressed with the company for the amount of gear available and the fact that they didn't charge for every single thing - as is so often the case. Kitted out we got on the bus for the hour and a half journey out to the mountain.
Now clearly I'm a fan of mountains anyway, but the first sight of one that you've set your hat on climbing is a really special feeling. Trepidation and excitement clash in the pit of your stomach as well as the overwhelming awe at the beauty before you. My
thoughts went out to the friends that I know would love to be sharing this experience with me and for a moment I allowed myself to miss them - before remembering the task at hand!
The time that you arrive at Dr Hugo's refugio is, unnervingly, around the time that you see that days climbers return. That day 4 of the 12 attempting the ascent hadn't made it and everyone looked shattered. None of us were inspired with confidence! That afternoon though we got out to the nearby glacier and practised using crampons and ice-axes. Fortunately I was the most experienced of the group and have used both before, but not for a while - and the practice is always useful.
That evening was a comfortable sleep and the following day a relaxing start. It was not until the afternoon that we started the three ish hour hike up to the second camp. My pack, like everyone elses weighed around 20kgs. I managed an hour but a pack that's a good third of my body weight was too much - one of the guides helped out for the next two hours - dollars talk!
I had a
slight headache by the time we reached the second refuge at 5200m but hoped that I could sleep it off. We had tea - super noodles and a hot dog sausage (!) and got in our bunks by 5.30pm. Wake up would be at 00.30hrs!
Sadly there would be no wake up. Mainly because there was no falling asleep! The headache just got worse and added to it was a good dose of nausea. When one of the guides finally got up for the bathroom I told him how bad I was feeling. He said I might have to go down but first gave me a tablet and said to see how I felt in an hour. I was gutted ... but still hoped.
When the alarm went off just over an hour later it actually roused me a little. I couldn't believe it, I felt a world better - not marvellous just not as bad as an hour or so ago. I hailed the tablet I'd been given as a miracle only to be told it was asprin!! One penny, one euro cent .. whatever ... that had saved my trip!
We set off and I
can only describe the walk as a slow, dark and increasingly exhausting trudge as we listened to the sounds of our chests trying to catch breath in the cold night air. It was not until much closer to the summit that we saw some views other than the sea of stunning stars above. A different kind of twinkling light appeared in view - the sodium lights of La Paz could start to be seen glittering in the distance and with this I started to feel more positive of how near we now were. One of the group though wasn't going to be so lucky. The altitude got to him and he had to turn back ... we were now 5.
It didn't feel like much longer until the black sky began turning navy blue and with it I saw the summit - and the final push we had to make to achieve it. The last 200m is pretty sheer although snow covered and was a good test of our new ice-axe skills, our energy levels and determination. The adrenalin took over me as I saw the dawn starting to break and as I made the final few steps across
the ridge to the summit something that completely took me by surprise happened - my bottom lip started to waver and suddenly I was crying - really crying. I didn't know what I was feeling at first but as I sat down and looked out infront of me to the dawn, to the left over the Cordillera range and around my other sides to the sheer and deadly slopes of this mountain I started to know what it was ... just an incredible pride in myself and an overwhelming happiness. Lots of high fives, handshakes and photos later though ... it was time to leave.
There was nothing left in the batteries - but at least this time gravity was in our favour as we walked back to the lodge, stopping numerous times en route for photos of all the things we couldn't see by night - the views were magnificent but the camera will always struggle to capture the panorama that our eyes can.
By the time we reached the second refuge again we were back in the sun, back in trekking shoes and the end was in sight. I donned my music and largely walked the
rest of the way alone, looking back regularly just to absorb the achievement - and feel very very proud!
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Raya
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Congrats on reaching 6088m! My boyfriend and I climbed Huayna Potosi back in December and understand the incredible feeling of reaching the top - I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. Unfortunately only 4 out of our group of 7 made it - I honestly can't believe they call it an "easy climb for beginners." Great job, enjoy the rest of your travels :)