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Published: February 7th 2010
Hello all & welcome to Charlie and Hiral's first travel blog!
So it has been just over 2 weeks since Hiral and I waved goodbye to the green green grass of England and arrived bright eyed and bushy tailed in Bangkok. Since then we have experienced an incredible 2 week whirlwind around the South of Thailand, island hopping and sun worshipping. Right now you find me sat at the end of Kho San Road at quarter to 1am, the vibrancy of the street jostling by and a pretty interesting live cover of 'Sweet Home Alabama' filling my ears! Kho San Road is an extraordinary battle of sweaty bodies, taxis and neon signs fused with the sweet smell of mango and car fuel. It is like nowhere I have been before.
Our journey from airport to central Bangkok was markedly smooth, Hiral and I still in somewhat of a daze we were grateful Fran (Hiral's friend from home, who is now a dear friend of mine) was there to guide as she had visited before. We headed for an apartment just East of Kho San, near the main road with the shopping centre on. Hiral's mum's friend's daughter, Kerry, a
teacher in Bangkok very very kindly put us up in her gorgeous apartment. Far from 'bumming it' Hiral and I landed on our feet - pretty good! So full of the joys of a power shower and wii rockband we culminatively thought 'we could get used to this travelling lark'!! First stop was Kho San Road, the travellers haven. Then after our, now, staple diet of Pad Thai and a few cocktails we thought it a marvellous idea to head over to Patpong , the 'red light district' of Bangkok. (Talk about throwing ourselves in at the deep end!) In my defence I had taken a true travellers stance and not looked at the guide book so was led blindly into the cesspit of sordidness!! Anyhow, after a boisterous tuk tuk ride over to Patpong we found ourselves wide-eyed, bemused and utterly speechless at a 'Ping Pong Show'. Needless to say after about 15minutes of bewilderment we had seen enough haha! Patpong was originally founded to cater for foreigners fascination with Thai prostitutes but now it is more your silly, freaky, trashy night out. It was hilarious and entertaining entrance to Bangkok.
Woke up fresh faced from my luxurious
bed overlooking the city, still in disbelief I had embarked on my adventure. Did the tourist thing and made a beeline for the Grand Palace. Built in 1782, the sumptuous building is dazzling. Glittering and goregeously tactile, we sat in the shrine enclosing the 'Emerald Buddha', shoeless and each donnig a flowing patterned skirt, already I felt I had awakened the inner hippy! That night we met up with Kerry's friend Ange, also a teacher in Bangkok, who took us to 'Condoms and Cabbages', for some authentic Thai dishes. 'Condoms and Cabbages' is a surreal restuarant. Set outside, covered with romantic fairylights and complete with machines that admit 'mountain dew' into the air, it is an eatery that promotes safe sex. In fact, finish your meal and it is not mints but free condoms you will recieve a la bill. They had action hero's, an Arsenal player and even Tiger Woods fully made out of condoms and contraceptive pills - imagine it, if you can! We let Ange order for all of us and it was delicious - catfish with a crispy sponge texture, chicken wrapped in banana leaves and a citrus salad. Also learnt that to put your fork
in your mouth in Thai culture is like licking your knife in British culture.
5am start. Backpacks on. Hasta la vista beautiful, clean lifestyle! Our first experience of Thai travel/tour/excursion transport. I couldn't tell you which direction we travelled in as we were all sound asleep on the bus but we headed out of central Bangkok for about two hours to a floating Thai market. The thin river was saturated with longboats, glittering bags, coconuts, straw hats and most of all tourists with cameras. The smell of fuel as the motored table boats try to batter their way through was intoxicating. Once through the market our boat headed down the swampy river, traditional wooden thai houses, bright green mosses and some tranquility. Back in Bangkok by lunch we headed to the top of one of the more 'attractive' looking hotels on Kho San and all 3 of us had a Thai Aroma massage under a wooden marquee. Cool breeze and a few giggles - it was bliss! My lady was full of mischief and nearly cracked my back in two!! So covered in oil and sweat we were ready to embark on our first of many long haul coach
rides. Heading South, 14 hours and a wet ferry ride later we found ourselves in Ko Samui.
Ko Samui's beach is beautiful. One of the 3 famous islands on the east side of the south we stayed in a dainty beach hut in Hat Lamai. Step out to sand in between your toes, I was thrilled. Hit the beach and within minutes I had been sunburnt. Lashings of Factor 50 and my bikini is still stencilled upon my skin. That night we headed over to the raucous tourist hotspot of Chaweng. The strip is a bit of Corfu/Lad's Holiday complete with LadyBoys but on the beach itself is gorgeous. Chilled bars, pumping music, fairy lights and bed-like tables mixed up with fireworks and a few 'buckets' of alcohol, as well as the gorgeous backdrop of the clear sea, soft sand and twinkling stars. It is a really cool place.
Stayed in Ko Samui that day sunning and absorbing beach life. Headed back to Chaweng that night and hit the partying. A few funny tales (Fran & I late night swims and beach partying until sunrise), but what happens in Thailand stays in Thailand (for parents and relatives this
is nothing to be worried about we're still alive and dignified!) !
Decided to go for it and head over to Ko Phag Nan (the island home to the infamous Full Moon Party) on the Friday morning, 1 day before the big party with no booked accomodation. Ferry ride at sunset was splendid, the battle for a tuk tuk less so but we made it over rough terrain to the party capital. Traipsing up and down the beach past the fully furnished, alluring bungalows and getting rejected by everyone, it was getting to the point where sleeping on the beach sounded like a veritable option. But to our rescue came Chaung Bungalows. For 7pounds a night we called a tiny pink concrete box with no windows, but a very nice painting of the King of Thailand, home. Shared 'toilet' and a hose in a shack we had reached the travelling 'utopia'. Our main concern was the lack of mirror, but we adapted. Explored the beach that night and were wowed once again by the soft winds and sand but this time they were amalgamated with the tinge of dirty, exciting and firey party. Fire poi, fire skipping rope, fire
limbo; the wooden bars have them all. It is dazzling; Hiral and I found a pew on one of the make-shift wooden dance floors, watched Fran win the 'Fire Limbo Championships' (Whoo Fran!) and chatted and soaked up the mesmerising atmosphere.
Next day, hit the beach once again (gotta top up that burn) and tasted some stall food delights (right against nurses orders). Perused the shops, (Hiral's haggling is topnotch, whereas I am very poor!) bought ourselves some very predictable and tourist-esque 'Full Moon' vests and glo-paint. Experienced a black-out and a small thunderstorm, sat in our prison cell room with our torches for about half an hour before we decided to brave it and shower in torch/darkness. Lights returned thankfully and Fran and I were painted up by Hiral. Hiral is magnificent with the glo-paint and we were all set for the Fulllll Mooon. Beach was, sounds very cliche, but electric. I think I got a little over-excited as after watching them set the 'Full Moon Sign' ablaze and chatting for a while with Hiral, Fran and some Aussies the next thing I full comprehend is waking up in a Restaurant with Hiral staring at me (clearly cross
she was looking after me and not on the beach!) and Fran still asleep haha!! However after this minor set-back, we had a second wind and rejoined the groovers on the sand and watched the sunrise before a staggered walk home. Full Moon was fun, but perhaps a little over rated. I would go again.
Stayed in Ko Phang Nan for another day, sunned and sea'ed. Sat cross legged at a bar called Mountain Bar to the left of the beach on the rocks and saw the sunset. Was so peaceful and serene. Tanned and sandy with dirty feet but glowing. We lay and watched the stars and it has to be one of my highlights so far. Hippy hippy!
Left early early for Phuket the next morning. Would say woke up and rushed-ly stuffed our backpacks but turns out I have a neat complex so I quickly folded everything into bags into my bags much to Hiral's bemusement/annoyance!! Ko Phang Nan to Phuket was THE journey from hell. We were completely lied to about transfer times. But we made it across the south to the west side and the journey pain was soothed when I realised we
were staying in the Hostel where parts of 'The Beach' is filmed!! I waited and waited but Leonardo di Caprio did not show..!
Tuesday, we woke up and got out in half an hour in order to make the check-out time. This quick turn around is becoming a regular thing. Met Hiral's friends from Uni Rob, Soph and Steve. Headed over to Patong, the 'resort' area in Phuket. The place is indescribable. We hopped on a school-type public bus which was exhilirating. We were met by the underbelly of the tourist world. Scummy, flashy, dirty, buzzing, chokingly-claustraphobic but almost brilliant. Deffo not the cultural centre, in fact it is your 'Lad Holiday' dreamworld. But it had its charm and complete with Rob and Steve we had a fantastic evening which ended in Burger King and getting well and truly locked out of our room. (I still blame Rob). Ended up getting a Norwegian man to knock it down at 3amish. It was a last hope as even the owner could not open it.
Up and off again Wednesday morning. Dazed and burnt a minibus transferred us to a ferry which delivered us to what can only be called
paradise. Ko Phi Phi. Untouched by cars, I wish I could say it was still untoched by tourists but it is still the polar opposite to Patong. White sands, plam trees, beach swings and delicious seafood, we felt like Phi Phi princesses. Found a charming pink bungalow with roosters swanning around and friendly locals. Hit the beach and experienced an interesting 'Fire Show' in the evening, ever seen a Michael Jackson impersonator air guitar with fire?
Thursday and we ate breakfast on the beach 😊. Haggled to get our own Long Tail Boat for the day and set off across the seas to explore around the island. First stop was 'Monkey Beach', with monkeys! Splashed around and pinched ourselves at the beauty of what we were seeing. Next stop Maya Beach, a national park. Then a swim in a part of the sea that had 'stingers' in it - very uncomfortable, would not reccomend. Last stop, Shark Point, minus the sharks! Went snorkelling and it was wonderful! Big blue, illuminous fish, yellow stripey fish, schools of big lipped fish! We all felt like bond girls being zoomed around the waves. Returned to land and made the mission (no joke,
vertical hills and jungle) up to the Viewpoint on the island to see the sunset, really perfect day.
Friday and time to move again. Crepe treats (you would think travellers would loose weight) for breakfast and ferry to our last island Rai Lay. Entering Rai Lay West was astonishing, a small bay enclosed with rocks, felt like we were a million miles away from home. Found our very own wooden/pagoda/bamboo type flat to stay in and lay on the beach until the blazing red sunset. Had a 'posh' dinner as was Fran's last night with us and then went relaxed by the beach in the reggae bars. Very calm and colourful. Stumbled across a Thai Boxing match whcih was great. The fact they shout 'O my Buddha' instead of 'O my God' was of great amusement. Made some friends and sat outside our room until the early hours.
Waved a sad goodbye to Fran on Saturday before Hiral and I, now let loose upon the world alone, embarked on the longhaul trip back to Bangkok. A restless 16hours later we rubbed our sore eyes and stumbled onto a street near Kho San Road. Found the first hostel that was open at 5.30am, a pretty good find at 5pounds a night, and I slept until 2pm this afternoon! Then as we decided we had come back to Bangkok to recoup I had a manicure and pedicure haha! My feet have not felt this clean in 2 weeks! It was only 4pounds altogether so darn good. Went and looked around MBK the biggest shopping centre in Bangkok. It was crazyyee! So many brightlights and gadgets. 7 floors up and we decided to go to the cinema. You have to stand to the national athemn and praise the King before the film - very bizarre. Finally saw Avatar. Though apparently they cut a very good part out and the sound kept going so it took us 5hours to see the film haha!! We thought we got locked in the shopping centre as well. But now we're back, and you find me here.
Our plan is to stay in Bangkok until Tuesday evening when we have a bus booked to Northern Thailand, Chang Mai. Home of Elephant trekking and the like. Have also applied for our Vietnam visas so the route looked like Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Kuala Lumpar and Singapore at the mo. I apologise for the very long blog, I am suprised at the amount we have accompolished in the past 2 weeks. Will try to blog again in a week, well done to those who read this far!
We are having an amazing time. Do not worry about us, we are very street savvy. And please email us / facebook us your news. We try to go on the internet every 3days but it will be harder up north. We are eager to hear from home.
We love you all,
Charlie & Hiral (on tour) XXXXXXXX
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Jenny
non-member comment
Soooooo insanely jealous - trip is sounding absolutely amazing! totally 100% jealous and wish i could be there getting dirty feet with you both love xxxxxxxxxxx