BOLIVIA OR BUST!

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From the city of Puno in Peru I booked my crossing to Bolivia, a bit worried though coz' just weeks before, there was a turmoil in the country as they ousted their President, we hear stories of burning tires blocking the roads even to the border towns, so i just hope for the best.

At the border, we easily got stamped out of Peru and had to walk to the Bolivian frontier while the bus waits for us on the other side, it's a small border post and it looks like farmers also double up as border guards, anyway soon as I handed out my Philippine passport he went towards the wall where posted are the categorical lists of nationalities exempted or needing a visa to enter Bolivia, I went with him and we both started looking up for Filipinas, I found it first and true enough no visa needed, phew! got stamped in for 60 days. We arrived in a little town called Copacabana, where I decided to stay for the night and try to explore the Bolivian side of Titicaca. I went to the moorish looking church and noticed the line of automobiles out front, turns out the priest are blessing them, they pour beer i think on the car and break the bottle, nothing much really going on in this town, as i walk i met the Aussie girl from the bus and she invited me to this bar to check out, I went back to my hostel to freshen up then as i set out looking for the bar, i could not find it, and decided to turn in early after dinner as i am still reeling from altitude sickness. next morning took the boat to check out some islands in Titicaca, people on the boat, including me, and mind you most are natives, are annoyed at the antics of a group of young Aussies, they were loud and drunk! It's a couple hours boat ride so imagine what we have to go through, I was so relieved when I saw them get off and stayed in the island for the night, spend the whole day hiking then back to town.

The next day took the bus to La Paz, it was odd that we have to write our name on the manifest, but i guess that's the standard here. A young gringo got on the bus and found his way on a seat behind me, poor dude he seems starving as he gobble up the pringles chips in a hurry, and later after satisfying himself asked me in Spanish if he's on the right bus to La Paz. This dude turns out to be Brazilian and I will encounter him many more times all the way down to Chile!Anyway off we go after a long delay and after couple hours travelling we found ourselves having to cross the lake, I believe this is still Titicaca, can't remember exactly as I am writing this almost 3 years after the fact!, we got off and caught a dingy boat to cross as our bus goes to another, it was rocky and my Aussie seatmate on the bus was feeling queezy, he asked me if i have something for his sea sickness, and all i have was imodium! He passed, all the while am a bit worried he might just hurl on me as he is seated next to me and his head turned towards me to avoid the wind! All went well though, back on track, hopped back on the bus and we're on our way to La Paz, I remember seeing the beautiful landscape and as we near La Paz, the snow peak mountains begin to appear, what a beautiful scenery! Took the taxi to Hostal Republica. Checked at the front desk if the rep. from Tonito tours have left a message as to when she will drop by to brief me on the Salar de Uyuni trip, i offered to stop by their main office, but she told me it's closed because the rioters threw stones at the glass windows. meanwhile i booked some day tours in and around La Paz. Next day off to Chacaltaya, the highest ski slope in the world, since Cusco my altitude sickness hasn't completely left me, and seems to be improving when i arrived in lapaz, but got worse at the top of Chacaltaya, some people hiked up further from where the station is but I stayed and lie down on the couch. Went back to the city and visited the valley of the moon, in the suburbs, nothing great really, just odd landscape created by rain and wind, some people live there and you can smell of the pigs they raise for livelihood. Found a great fastfood place downtown called Pollo Copacabana, great chicken! sure beat's Mcdonald's in my book, they serve it with plaintains on the side and the usual papas fritas!
that eve I met with Tonito rep. along with 2 Dutch guys I met at the hostel we negotiated a price for the 3 of us for the Salar trip, these Dutch guys bargained hard and we got a pretty good deal.

Next day off to Tiahuanaco ruins, I like these ruins and although not as grand as the Macchu Pichu, they have this new spanking museum that was very helpful in understanding about the history of this place, and the ruins are not too shabby! For lunch we were offered Llama steak, it was actually good, though not all of us had it! This is when we met the Brazilian dude from the bus, Gustavo, turns out he also knew the Dutch guys, he got there by taxi and wanted to ride back to the city with us but he was still inside taking photos of the ruins in the Museum so we left. Also in this excursion is an American dude from New Mexico, he is cool and funny,long blonde hair with corn rows, looks like a hippie, he had a stash of coca leaves in a plastic bag with him and keeps putting it in his mouth to chew, he offered us but we declined i like mine with hot water, as TEA. Soon as we get back to town the Dutch boys looke for a bar to watch some soccer game, they invited me I said no, got some things to post back to Boston, we met up that night supposedly to watch soccer game with Gustavo but we decided to just head out to dinner, in this funky place somewhere, food was so so, then we called it a night.
Next day my Dutch friends left early for Oruro where we will catch the train to Uyuni, I opted to stay until the afternoon as I want to do a city tour of La Paz, at the end of the tour we were dropped off I thought near my hostel so I decided to walk, then realized I was on the other side of town, kept walking though, I felt fine, then when i got to the street where the hostel is, I have to climb some stairs, and I was so out of breath, with the altitude and all, i regret walking but it's done. Got to the bus station and already i hear people shouting Oruro! Oruro! so I followed the hail and got on the bus, what was suppoed to be a 5 hr trip turned out to be more as the roads at some point are being fixed and the driver keeps stopping for fare, one time we just completely stopped and turns out we have a flat tire and the driver went out to fix it, but the locals are so ticked off by the delay they we standing and stomping their feet yelling out Vamos! repeatedly. We got to Oruro around 7ish PM, took a cab to the hostel we agreed to meet at and then took a walk to find my Dutch friends, found them at a restaurant playing cards, we had dinner then they suggested we watch a movie, Caligula, never heard of the movie and Rogir said it's a Shakespearean movie of sorts, so off we go, imagine my surprise to find out it's a soft porn movie! the 3 of us were chuckling uncontrollably, Joachim the other Dutch guy said we take off in 5 mins, after we got a few sneak of the orgies, we finished the whole movie!

Next day took the scenic train to Uyuni, i believe it was 7 hours trip, we booked a nice coach, with a restaurant carriage. Night time we arrived in Uyuni, got a ride from a hostel where we eventually stayed on, next morning walking round town to kill time we saw Brazilian Gustavo again, just arriving from a night bus from La Paz, he booked a trip to the Salar with another company leaving that same day, we got back to the hostel to pick up our things and head to the company office, Rogir got into a fight with the senora about the room rates, he thinks he was promised a cheaper price than what's being charged, it went on and on, he was a better Spanish speaker than I am so i was a bit surprised he misunderstood the senora the night before, anyhoo he grudgingly paid and off we go, he was still pissed for a long time. Tonito is sending 2 4WD trucks for the trip 6 in one and 4 of us in another, me and 3 Dutch dudes, one of the Aussie guys asked if we can switch around so it would be five each on each truck, Rogir bluntly says no! so we stay put in our truck, it was a bumpy trip, we went to the Isla Pescado, an island of sorts in the middle of the salt flats with 1000 year old cactus, it was a cool place to be, also we stopped by the Salt hotel, we got yelled at for getting inside and not buying anything so Rogir and I sheepishly left after taking some quick photos of the interior. As we drive through the salar, it's just all white, i guess it gets pretty boring our driver is sleeping on the wheel, we did not feel in danger though in this vast and empty landscape and we had fun taking photos of the sleeping driver! my Dutch friends started eating a licorice type of candy, the name escaped me, they had me try it and it was awful! I tried to finish it ,not to offend them, soon as i did they offered me another, i politely declined.Our first stop for the night was this village in the middle of nowhere. We had a big dorm room for the 4 of us while the other group, 2 Israelis, 2 Aussies and 2 Brits stayed on a cramped dorm, in the same house. We went for a short hike then when we came back some of the boys decided to play soccer with the local kids, they lost and was out of breath they swore not to play at 4000 meters above sea level ever again! The night we had a chicken meal and some pasta with meat sauce which has a funny taste so i skipped that and just had a couple bowls of the Quinoa soup which was yummy. Then our group bonded with the other, they did some Aussie drinking game which i don't want to be part of as I was still feeling the soroche(altitude sickness), I was in the room when Rogir came to fetch me and told me to come get outside, turns out there was an eclipse, I did not see much but there are thousands of bright stars, amazing feeling! We all stood there gazed up, but was short lived, the Israeli wanted everyone back in for the drinking game, I called it a night. Up early we left soon for another long day of travel, we saw a unique looking stone they call Arbol de Piedra, some rock formations, fantastic altiplano lakes, with flamingos, and also we saw a magnificent dust devil, we followed it a bit, then moved on, we can see the Ollague volcano, one of the Dutch guys his name i forgot have a bad stomach, so we stopped a lot to relieve himself. That afternoon we arrived at our night stop, inside the Avaroa Natl. Park. All of us 4 guys went for a hike, it was very windy but the scenery was stunning, red, green, white colors on the lake due to microorganisms and salt deposits, on the way back it was difficult as we are against the wind and it was blowing really strong. I was exhausted when we got back to the refuge, Joachim brought a stranger to our room, well not really, it was Brazilian Guga again, holding a liter of beer in his hand, he was all mucky, he waded in the muddy water near the shore of the lake which by the way is called Colorada. He muttered something like, you look like shit, did not pay attention to him and instead made a bee line to the liqour store behind the refuge. It was a good night drinking again as we celebrate the Israeli girls Birthday, then off to bed, we can't be too loud as others also staying in the refuge are in bed already. it was cold and windy i can hear the wind howling, since they both have sleeping bags, Rogir and Jaochim gave me their comforters. We were woken up by 4am as we need to depart early, Rogir was cursing under his breath, something about him not getting enough sleep. We packed and on the truck when all of a sudden it won't start, some loose coil, they figured out later on, the other truck left ahead of us, we were surprised we were at the thermal bath before them, turns out they also stalled along the way minutes after they took off ahead of us. On one of the geyser we went to, we saw in one truck a young lady throwing up and really sick, we will encounter them again in San Pedro de Atacama.Anyway our first bath in 2 days, at this thermal pool, the wacky Israeli dude ran out to the muddy field and rolled himself on it and back to the pool, i don't know his purpose but was funny! the off to the edge of the Bolivian frontier where 6 of us were dropped off to cross to Chile, we said goodbye to the rest of our group and off we went to the shuttle bus to Chile, we were given entry forms and midway the bus driver stopped and explained the procedures at the border and although in Spanish i understood him saying no food can be brought to Chile and not to give him a headache by bringing in drugs, so if anyone has it to dump it before reaching the frontier. The scenery is stunning again and we are descending down to the desert but is still actually at high altitude. arrived at San Pedro de Atacama, went through customs, then off to find a place to stay.

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Photos

me @Mt. Chacaltaya
Highest ski slope in the world.

killing time @ Uyuni cafe
counterclockwise from top, Brazilian Guga, Dutch Rogir, me and the other dutch guy,Joachim.

disierto de silloli
group photo.

dust devil
amazing dust devil we encountered on the desert.

laguna colorada
view from our hike.

birthday celeb.
the Israeli girl's b-day, sorry forgot her name.

thermal pool
our first bath in days, me and Rogir, at the background is the funny crazy Israeli,about to roll himself in the mud, sorry forgot his name too.

thermal pool breakfast
both groups having breakfast after a bath.

Comments

[Amy]

Beautiful Dust Devil
What an amazing photograph! Truely a spectacal of nature!