Driving from Dublin


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May 12th 2009
Published: May 13th 2009
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Driving from Dublin: A Coastal Route


LeftoversLeftoversLeftovers

Probably actually left from filming and not an old prisoner... Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin
Woo! The official party may be over, but Dad and I have not stopped moving since we got here! It’s made it very hard to stay on top of my blogging, and I am now going to try to summarize my previous 3-page-long entry, to save everyone an information overload.

We left Dublin last Friday, via the left side of the road, to embark on a road trip around the south coast of the country. Though bad signage and bicycle-path-sized roads turned our first 100 kilometers into a 4-hour odyssey, we’ve finally gotten the hang of things and have managed to navigate ourselves along the Wicklow Way (a walking trail that runs 127km from Dublin suburbs to Conegal town in County Wicklow), through to Kinsale (a lovely port town) in County Cork and finally around the Ring of Kerry to Killarney.

We’ve discovered the joy of ending every day with pints of Bulmers Irish Cider, Guinness (in the north) and Murphy’s (in the south) in intimate little pubs with traditional jam sessions; the wild beauty of just about every area outside Dublin or Cork; delicious heartiness of Irish cooking; and the hospitality and chatty friendliness of Irish people. Everything
Dublin SunDublin SunDublin Sun

A rare break in the clouds
in this country is fabulous aside from the high prices and a few disappointing hostels; but Dad and I have turned to self-catering as a means of cutting costs, and are becoming addicted to the comfort and cleanliness of decently priced Bed and Breakfasts (only about 20€ more than a hostel room and infinitely nicer).

The only other complaint we have is that we could use a bit more time! Our penchant for sleeping in, narrow roads and multiple photo/walking/coffee stops have all contributed to our relatively slow progress. We’ve only been able to cover about 200km per day, and these are full days of driving. But we keep telling ourselves, we need to leave something for next time; and with the great experiences we’ve been having there will definitely be a next time.

Traveler's Tips

Knockree Hostel near Enniskerry, County Wicklow - Beautiful setting right on the Wicklow Way. Very clean, but caters to noisy school groups. Crabby front desk lady.

The Old Presbytery, Rathdrum, County Wicklow - Definitely old, with the only presbytery in sight about 100m through a clearing; but staff are VERY friendly.

Dempsey's Hostel, Kinsale - We walked in and
Cultured ManCultured ManCultured Man

Dad posing with Mr. Joyce at the James Joyce Center, Dublin
turned right around again. Unless on a strict budget, give it a miss for a cleaner, more comfortable B&B.

Sea Breeze Bed and Breakfast, Kinsale - First right turn after Dempsey's Hostel. Owner Fiona is friendly and helpful. Rooms are spic and span and nicely decorated, with harbour view via some sky-lights.

An Seanachai Bar, Kinsale - Fabulous live music; lively atmosphere.

Hawthorn House, Kenmare - Spacious, shiny and new. A great welcome as soon as we knocked on the door. Facilities for self-catering.

Crowley's Bar, Kenmare - Cozy little pub with an intimate little traditional music session going on when we stopped by.

Neptune's Hostel, Killarney - Simple and clean and right in the middle of town. VERY friendly staff. Railway Hostel, near the bus station, might have nicer rooms...


Additional photos below
Photos: 21, Displayed: 21


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Trinity WorldTrinity World
Trinity World

Reflective Globe at Trinity College, Dublin
Moon RiseMoon Rise
Moon Rise

A great view from Knockree Hostel on the Wicklow Way
Wicklow EmWicklow Em
Wicklow Em

Early morning folly alone on the Wicklow Way
Sun Spots on the SeaSun Spots on the Sea
Sun Spots on the Sea

Play of light during a sunrise walk on Curtlestown forest trail on the Wicklow Way
Self-Catered FeastSelf-Catered Feast
Self-Catered Feast

Taking a break from Irish pub food to enjoy a salmon steak with veggies
Coastal EmCoastal Em
Coastal Em

Enjoying the view on the coast between Wicklow and Cork
Kinsale HarbourKinsale Harbour
Kinsale Harbour

Colourful sunset in the harbour
Colourful KenmareColourful Kenmare
Colourful Kenmare

Beautiful scenery and adorable houses
Murphy's meets BulmersMurphy's meets Bulmers
Murphy's meets Bulmers

Complete with blurry pub-vision
Cozy PubCozy Pub
Cozy Pub

Shot with live music playing right behind me (I was sitting next to the fiddler) Crowley's Pub, Kenmare
Last Wall StandingLast Wall Standing
Last Wall Standing

Old ruined castle on the coast from Wicklow to Cork
St. Kevin's GraveyardSt. Kevin's Graveyard
St. Kevin's Graveyard

Nice sights at the old haunt of the god-fearing, woman-killing reclusive saint
Avoca ThreadsAvoca Threads
Avoca Threads

Colourful threads on the loom at the Avoca Handweavers Mill, oldest weaving mill in Ireland.
Ring of EmRing of Em
Ring of Em

Standing over the Ring of Kerry from Kenmare to Killarney
Sunset Over KillarneySunset Over Killarney
Sunset Over Killarney

Killarney National Park
Tranquil MomentsTranquil Moments
Tranquil Moments

Away from traditional music, tourists and traffic at Torc Falls, Killarney National Park


13th May 2009

Fabulous pics Em (as always!). My friend, Deb, also commented on the road conditions when she visited Ireland. Highway that turn into roads where the bushes are scratching your vehicle. She too found that it took a long time to go a relatively short distance, but loved the countryside. See you when you get back

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