The surreal Southwest


Advertisement
Bolivia's flag
South America » Bolivia
February 26th 2009
Published: March 12th 2009
Edit Blog Post

Multicoloured mountainsMulticoloured mountainsMulticoloured mountains

At the Salar de Chivalri.
At first, crossing from Argentina into the dusty Bolivian border town of Villazon was largely uneventful. There were the usual line crashers and moments of confusion when we can’t read the signs. There was a bit of a stir among the tourist contingent when news spread that Americans, and only Americans, were being charged $135 to enter Bolivia while the rest of the world had free admittance. And as we marched uphill toward the bus station, my breath was shortening and my head began throbbing just slightly from the alititude (3400m).

I took in my new surroundings and considered what a difference a border makes.

Women dressed in the ubiquitous layered dresses and bowler hats were perched behind mounding piles of ¨stuff¨ for sale. In the spirit of Carnival, young boys and girls in alpaca toques and sweaters ran amok armed with spray guns, water balloons and cans of pressurized foam. All were gleefully screaming as they found targets or became them. The bus station had the appearance of an overstuffed storage room in need of a serious cleaning, but we managed to find tickets for a bus leaving in five minutes. Everything in sight seemed to have about
Laguna VerdeLaguna VerdeLaguna Verde

The colour is caused by copper mineral sediments. Behind the lake is Licancabur Volcano (5390m).
an inch of dirt on its surface, which led me to assume that soon I would, too.

For the next three hours, the bus bumped its way to our destination, sometimes sticking to the one-way path worn into the land, and other times going its own way in order to allow other vehicles to pass, to avoid washed-out land bridges, or for other reasons unknown to us silly tourists. We saw mountain ranges of varying size and colour and llamas munchings on tufts of greens sprouting from the cracked earth. We watched the desert turn to lush countryside peppered with red and yellow wildflowers, as the descending sun sparkled over a small river. We took in every new sight, beautiful and unique. As far we could tell, Bolivia was a picture waiting to be taken.

We arrived in Tupiza, a town with no ATM that offered three-course set lunches for under $3. We celebrated our return to the land of the cheap (high five!) and booked a four-day tour of the Southwest. Our trip from Tupiza to Uyuni promised spectacular sights: coloured lagoons, rock trees, flocks of flamingoes, volcanoes, geysers and the world’s largest salt flats. After two days in our hostel, we left.

Believe your eyes.


Additional photos below
Photos: 37, Displayed: 23


Advertisement

Salt flat highSalt flat high
Salt flat high

We were so fortunate to be paired with a very cool Aussie couple from Perth on our four-day tour (sometimes other tourists can absolutely ruin the vibe). We got on so well with Ben and Sophie, we even stuck with them through Potosi, after which they went to Cochabamba to do volunteer work and we headed to La Paz.
Laguna ColoradaLaguna Colorada
Laguna Colorada

A strange sight, with the white of borax islands against the reddish waters (caused by the pigmentation of sediments and algae).
ReflectionReflection
Reflection

There are three kinds of flamingoes in the area: Chilean, Andean and the rare James species.
Rocas de DaliRocas de Dali
Rocas de Dali

Salvador Dali was fascinated with these rocks and they appeared in some of his paintings. The odd outcropping on this hill was named after him.
Sol de MananaSol de Manana
Sol de Manana

Geysers and pools of noxious sulphuric stuff.
Termas de PolquesTermas de Polques
Termas de Polques

Our lunch break stop on Day 2 included a dip in this natural hot spring (4200m). At 30 degrees, it provided a much needed warm up from the high altitude cold we´d been facing so far on the tour.
ChiguanaChiguana
Chiguana

The teeny tiny town where we picked up a hitchhiker.
HitchhikerHitchhiker
Hitchhiker

She spent the previous eight days walking from Chile.
AdvertAdvert
Advert

As far as we can tell, Coke has a stronghold over Bolivia and Argentina.
Salar de UyuniSalar de Uyuni
Salar de Uyuni

The Salar de Uyuni is the world's largest salt flat (10,582 km²). It is the remains of a dried up prehistoric lake from around 40,000 years ago.
San JuanSan Juan
San Juan

Another town where we took a rest.
Kollpa LagunaKollpa Laguna
Kollpa Laguna

The sediment is used to make shampoo and laundry detergent.
Geyser gooGeyser goo
Geyser goo

At Sol de Manana
Canadian rock iconCanadian rock icon
Canadian rock icon

At Sol de Manana. There were many columnar piles around, Marc and I made this man-shaped contribution.


12th March 2009

Gotta love seeing that Oilers toque so far from home! :-)
21st March 2009

YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!!
I love this blog, love all your pics and of course, love you donkies! Can't wait to see you both back in Canada. ~R

Tot: 0.045s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 10; qc: 18; dbt: 0.0246s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1mb