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Published: December 7th 2008
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My wife and I traveled to Puerto Rico for five days in January of 2006. Our visit was during the "Three Kings Holiday", so the epic proportions of traffic that San Juan is famous for was unapparent. We rented a car from an off-terminal rental agency in a slightly unsafe area of San Juan. My backpack had been unintentionally soaked in fish juice during our flight, which I stored in the trunk of the rental car for the entire trip, that way we could share the pleasantry of Omega-3 odors with every person who rented or owned our car for the next decade or two. A good thing to note about rental vehicles in Puerto Rico is that they have extremely durable skid plates, which came into good use around every corner and over every bump. If you plan to rent a car on the island, be sure you have the ability to drive as fast as possible everywhere you go. Don't pay attention to traffic lights/laws unless you feel like it. Don't worry about cops, because there is a law that was introduced by the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) or something that requires all officials in police cars to
leave their emergency lights on regardless the situation. If you see a cop (it's hard to miss the flashing lights) then don't break any laws.
We first stopped in El Yunque National Forest, which is a beautiful rainforest with well-maintained trails and roads. A few of the walking trails include miles of paved surface, so it is a very convenient place for a stroll. This made it easy to access all of the major sites. Camping is allowed in the park, but there are some serious issues with personal safety in Puerto Rico, so the gates are locked at dusk to protect legitimate visitors from being victims of crime. As our day wound down, we found ourselves near Fajardo on the Northeast corner of the island, so we spent the night at a cheap inn. The motel was placed above a Reggaeton bar who’s clientele consisted of drug dealers and prostitutes. I'm relatively comfortable in less than ideal situations, so it was no big deal. My biggest concern was with the safety of my fish flavored car rental as it seemed vulnerable to vandalism and theft. Our original plan was to camp, but most campgrounds in Puerto Rico lock
their gates around dusk because of issues with safety. So you have to spend your entire evening at the campground if you intend to sleep there.
The next morning we checked out the beaches around Fajardo that were listed in the "Lonely Planet" book. The beaches we went to were ridden with trash and not very hospitable. We had a wedding in San Juan to attend that day, so we drove the Northeast coast to San Juan. The beaches along highway 187 were amazing. A long bike trail hugs the coastline and the lunch shacks and beach gift shops give off a chill vibe. The renaissance architectural style found in Old San Juan creates a unique city of European design not typically found in the Western Hemisphere. The cafes, shops, and bars provide a perfect place to relax while visiting mandatory tourist attractions such as El Morro and El Catedral de San Juan. We spent that night at a campground just outside San Juan, where a ranger broke park rules and allowed us to enter after hours.
It seems that the Puerto Rican people consider “Three Kings Day” a family holiday to be spent at home considering that
none of the campsites were occupied when we woke up the following morning. We left the campground early and drove to the beachside Cueva del India where Taino petroglyphs can be found. A local homeowner provides parking and access to the cave for a few dollars, but if you park just to the West of the advertised entry point you can find a trail that will lead you to the caves for free. That day we drove inland to another cave called the Cueva del Viento. You have to hike a few miles in to get to the access point of this cave. A flashlight is required to view the stalactites and stalagmites. Beware of the rabies-infested bats that occupy this cave. That evening we drove thru the mountainous terrain and jungles of central Puerto Rico. The outdoor bars that are not much more than picnic tables where the locals sell alcohol are a constant temptation along this road. We made it to Ponce and spent the evening at a marina named Paseo Tablado La Guancha. Food and music were the main attractions at this upscale destination. It was nice to see Puerto Rican families enjoying the holiday weekend as
a positive community. We decided not to even try to enter a campground that night because they officially lock their gates at dusk. Instead we drove to secluded beach on the Southwest corner of the island and slept in our car.
When we woke up, we drove North to Rincon. Along the way we found wonderful beaches for snorkeling. While driving on a busy four-lane highway we drove past a man riding his horse on the freeway thus confirming the absolute insane nature of the Puerto Rican culture and it’s people. We arrived to Rincon that afternoon and booked two nights at the Lazy Parrot. I would recommend this hotel to everyone I know as the décor was charming, the rooms were very well maintained, and the onsite restaurant was amazing. Rincon was the first area of Puerto Rico that we noticed a large gringo population. That evening I surfed at Maria’s and had one of the best experience of my life on an 8’-10’ swell with perfect offshore winds…..Ahhhh. The next day, I surfed at Domes under much less predictable conditions, but still quite sizable with some really big 15’ plus sneaker sets occasionally rolling thru to remind
you that you had no control of what the ocean does. The decommissioned nuclear power facilities that act as a backdrop for the beach at Domes gives the beach surreal sentiments.
Our flight was scheduled to depart in the early morning, so we left Rincon at 4:00am to give us enough time to catch our plane. We arrived to the airport three hours before our departure time, but still missed our plane. Luis Muñoz Marin International Airport (SJU) operates with the reliability of a third world country, so inefficiencies at customs and security can add unnecessary hours to the boarding procedure. We ended up getting flight vouchers and spending cash from American Airlines because of the problems we encountered. We spent that afternoon in Old San Juan, which was fun, and we flew out that evening.
Things to be aware of when traveling in Puerto Rico Violent crime is a very serious problem…. Beware!!!
Campsites are locked at dusk, making it impossible to combine nightlife activities with camping.
Most people speak English, so you don’t have to speak Spanish to survive.
The people in general are very pleasant. Many of them have been to the United States
and love it.
Drivers are insane and disrespectful. The best solution is to adopt their driving habits.
Puerto Rican food is extremely greasy.
Most public parks do not have restrooms or they are often locked. Good luck finding a place to relieve yourself.
Links to Download Maps Etc. Maps of Puerto Rico Stormriders Guide to the World - Northwest Puerto Rico Wave Finder - Puerto Rico
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Ricky Rick
non-member comment
Love it or leave it!
You know you got to hate when people come to our Island and just gripe how it's not safe like they're sweet little home in the States... It's another Country folks! And it's like anywhere else, you got good sections and not so good sections, just don't be dumb and know where you're going and you should be fine! I was born on the Island and grew up in Cali, I come back at least twice a year and love it! I've brought a ton of friends with me and no-one has ever had a bad thing to say about PR or our peeps! Love it or leave it I guess...