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Date: 9th April 2012

Update
Thank you all very much for these comments; they were very helpful!! We walked the salkantay trek unguided in the beginning of April, 2012; hence at the end of the wet season. Here is our update: •If you don´t like tours, and your an ´experienced´ hiker (meaning, did other more-day-hikes at such altitude already) I would definitely recommend on doing this trip on your own (meaning at least with 2 people of course!). It was great and not more difficult than other treks to do by yourself. 1. We were very concerned whether we´d be able to find the road. We printed several maps that we found online and ended up with having NO PROBLEMS finding the right path. I have to say, it was quite muddy and therefore we could often follow the tracks of the horses. One tricky point: after leaving Mollepata at one of the last houses, the road splits up. The left road seems to go up, the right on seems to go down. Although it feels like you have to go up and take the left path, you have to take the right on. It does go up afterwards. One other part were we were confused: after leaving Colpapampa, there is a road on the left and right side of the river. They both go to la Playa. The right one is a new road for cars, the left one is the original path. You can take either one, but maybe the left one is nicer (although it´s been affected by landslides) 2. After leaving Mollepata at some intersections you can find signs indicating ´continuar´. Follow these! 3. For people that are thinking about doing it in the rainy season. Although being at the end of the rainy season, we had quite some rain. But the most annoying thing was that after crossing the pass to Colpapamap, the road was EXTREMELY muddy… However, we had good equipment and therefore still really enjoyed it! We didn´t walk from La playa to Llactapata because people told us this road was too muddy right now and unsuitable to walk. As we already struggled so much with the other parts of the road, we didn´t walk this (although we haven´t checked the road ourselves) and took a minibus from La Playa to Santa Teresa, and from there to Hydroelectrica. However, as other people mentioned, I´m sure this would have been a very nice road… 4. The locals were very friendly and helpful. For example, the second day it rained a lot and after buying a drink locals let us camp underneath a roof in their garden, which was great! 5. If you want to hike wayna picchu when you are at macho picchu, book in advance, because it was full when we tried to reserve this the day before. 6. We bought food in a supermarket in Cusco. As other people already mentioned, you can buy plenty snacks on the way (chocolate bars like snickers, water, Gatorade, chips etc). Furthermore, when we did the trek at the end of the wet season, there was plenty of water everywhere, we just disinfected it with tablets (that´s at least what we did). So pack lightly and don´t take too much food. In Aguas caliente and St Teresa, you can buy breakfast/dinner/lunch if you wish, so you don´t have to take food for many days. 7. Prices that we paid: -shared cap to mollepata: 15 soles per persons (4 persons in a cab, it took around 2 hours), we didn´t wait for the bus, which might have been cheaper -we were thinking about taking a cab from mollepata to soraypampa. However, in Mollepata they would have charged us around 250 soles for such a cab. They told us they couldn´t do it for less since the roads were damaged because of the rain. We thought this was a ridiculously amount of money, so we walked. And the road to Soraypampa was fine and not damaged! -Shared minivan from La playa to St Teresa: 10 soles pp -shared minivan from St Teresa to Hidro electrica: 10 soles -train (Peru rail) from Hidro electrica to Aguas caliente: 18 US dollars (leaves at 16.35h), which is ridiculously expensive; walk it if you can! -Train from Aguas caliente to Ollantaytambo: 35 US dollars per person (you can also walk this though).

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 19th June 2011

Salkantay updated June 15, 2011
Hi, many thanks for your blog and the information that has been very useful, especially the latest updates, so we explain our experience. We did the Salkantay trek from Aguas Calientes to Mollepata in 3 days, without a guide, entirely on foot, without taking any means of transport, with bags over 20 kg, with tent and all the food on our shoulders , though very long and hard stages. Day 1 - Cusco - Mollepata - Soraypampa 22km - 1.200m ascent - 150m descent - 6h Take the bus to Cusco street Arcopata leaving at 5:30 am at the price of 7 soles to Mollepata, takes 3 hours to arrive. Start walking at 9 am and go up through many places to buy snacks and drinks. We arrive at camp Soraypampa where the first night. Day 2 - Soraypampa - Wiñaypoco 26 km - 1,000 ascent - descent 2.300m - 10h Leave AbraSalkantay direction (4650 m) in 3 hours we reach the pass, the highest place of all trekking. Begins a long descent to Wiñaypoco (2535 m) where we camp the second night. Day 3 - Wiñaypoco - Aguas Calientes 35km - ascent 1.300m - 1.400m descent - 11h The road plan with slight decline to pass on the La Playa and take the detour on the Inca trail (2000m) from here up to the ruins of Llucmabamba (2850 m). A strong descent brings us to the train station Hidroelèctrica (1,800 m). A path that runs alongside the railway brings in 2 hours to Aguas Calientes (2050 m). Today we slept in a hostel, a well-deserved reward. Day 4 - Aguas Calientes - Machupicchu - Aguas Calientes 20 km - ascent 2.000m - 2.000m descent - 12h We leave at 4:30 am in Aguas Calientes, the day before we get to the Plaza de Armas ticket to enter the price of 126 soles with student ID 50% discount. From 5 am to open the fence to cross the bridge and climb the stairs. At 6 am We act the entrance to the ruins, if you want to get on Huaynapicchu (2,700 m) of you have been sealed before entering and should indicate if you want to turn up at 7 am or 10am. Cross monastery and we all queued for the rise, We act at 7am, we are the first to arrive and get to the top. Go down the other side through the Gran Caverna and the Temple of the Moon. Also climb to the summit of Machu Picchu (3,100 m), great views. We also visited the temple of the sun and Intipunku or after visiting the rest of the ruins, we fall back to the path of Aguas Calientes. The return train to Ollaytamtambo worth only $ 40 + 10 soles to Cusco. We walk from Aguas Calientes to Hydroelectric, there we took a taxi to Sta.Teresa (30 minutes) price of 5 soles, another taxi to Sta. Maria(1 hour) price 10 soles and another vehicle to Cusco (5 hours) 20 soles. You can find all the tracks to cd to the following address: Stage 1: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778253 Stage 2: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778244 Stage 3: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778231 Total Trek & waypoints: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778257 Total Machupiccho + waypoints: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778291 Additional Information: 1 - Do not pay anything, any input to any village, or camping, or at all. We in return we consume a drink in the place where we camped. 2 - During all the way to find places where you can buy drinks and snacks. 3 - during the walk you can find many places to get water and rivers. 4-If you do not like to walk can take vehicles: Mollepata - Soraypampa (auto) Collpapampa - La Playa (auto) La Playa - Sta. Teresa (auto) Sta. Teresa - Hydroelectric (auto) Hydroelectric - Aguas Calientes (train) 5-Do not pay anything to go by the path along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. All you have to register to Hidroeléctrica, but is free. 6-If you don't walk, you can take a bus from Aguas Calientes to the entrance of Machu Picchu for $ 10.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 28th May 2011

Salkantay update May 2011
Hi there, thanks for you blog an all the useful information. We just finished the trek and would like to share the latest information: 1. I can confirm that there are no fees to pay, no tollgates or similar. You can walk along the regular path. 2. In case you want to skip the first day (Mollepata to Soraypampa) the taxi costs ~80 soles and takes approximately 1.5 hours. You can arrange it in Mollepata after you arrive. We took the taxi at 6:00am to start walking at 8:00am. 3. We published the full trek (1st day from Mollepata to Soraypampa by taxi) on wikiloc. You can find it at the following location including all the important way points (also with the point where the buses/minivans leave in Cusco: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1726915 4. If you are willing to walk for 10 or 11 hours, you can make it from Soraypampa to 'La Playa' in one long day. In La Playa you can catch a minibus to Santa Teresa (5 soles). From there you can catch another minibus to Hydroelectrica. Alternatively you can also walk to Hydroelectrica from La Playa as described by Arnaud. 5. Starting from the 1st of June 2011 you need to hire a guide to walk along the rail tracks from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes. At least this is what the officer at the checkpoint where you have to register told us. The guide costs 60 soles per person and also includes guiding at Machu Picchu the following day. Here is a picture of the notice: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/imgServer.do?id=604443 Can somebody verify this? Otherwise it's a really attractive hike, especially around the pass of Salkantay. There are lots of horses on the way. David

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 25th April 2011

Taxi Boat to Jaco
You can take a water taxi from Montezuma to Jaco or vs./vs. for a nominal fee. The trip is advertised as two hours from Montezuma to Manual Antonio and three hours to San Jose. This option for travel is great, if your not using a rental car.

From Blog: Costa Rica by Car: Arenal, Santa Elena, Nosara, and Montezuma
Date: 19th April 2011

Thanks you for sharing your trip
My boyfriend and I are going on this trip in July for 15 days and doing about the same itinerary except we may do an overnight trip in Grenanda and if there is time go to Jaco from the montezuma or Puntanares area. How many days were you in Costa Rica? We are also considering doing this trip by bus to save money for more tours.

From Blog: Costa Rica by Car: Arenal, Santa Elena, Nosara, and Montezuma
Date: 29th September 2010

Salkantay update September 2010
Hey guys, Thanks a lot for your blog. It was really helpfull ! I did the salkantay trek on my own on early september so i'll give the last information which could be of some interest. I confirm what Dale says : there is absolutely NO fee whatsoever in none of the place you cross during the hike. They suppressed those fees about 8 months ago after an official complain from the tourist agencies in Cuzco was sent to the authorities: those "paytolls" were illegal. So no need to try to sneak away from villages. You cross a lot of estancias on the way (minimum 2 a day) where they sell basic food (drinks, snacks, chocolate bars, etc...), so give yourself a break and try to make it light on food : save some weight out of your back cause this trek is a pretty tough one... People are very friendly : i was able to camp for free in their backyard. Just buy them a coke or a snack and everybody will be happy. They also know the route perfectly, so use your best spanish and ask them! Maps i found in Cuzco were expensive and useless : the PDF that appears on this blog is good enough : print out the first page, read carefully this blog, download the GPS trail and you're all good ! If you don't want to pay the 25$ for the GPS map that's shown on this blog, you can download for free a good GPS trail on Wikiloc : http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=53933 http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=23336 One of those 2 is abolutely perfect all the way down to Aguas Calientes, unfortunately i can't remember which one so you'll have to figure this out yourself... You are not at all isolated from the rest of the world on this trek, you cross many people and villages on the way so don't hesitate to do it on your own if you have a minimum of experience. If you have enough energy for doing the trek all the way, i would recommand to walk the first part from Mollepata to Soray, going through Marcocasa (ask villagers), it's a very nice start ! Agencies go up to Soray by car through a different road... Sad. Then, after Collpapampa you can choose to go by bus to Santa Teresa, or you can keep walking to Lucmabamba (free camping spot on the football field next to the school) and then through Llactapata pass. Very nice... And it goes all the way down to HydroElectrica. From there, take a nice lunch break and walk along the railroad. I know it sounds weird but it is a super nice walk through the jungle and through those steep mountains around Machu Picchu... Definitely worth it not to wait for the train that shows up only at 6:00PM... Last comment: about transport. To go to Mollepata from Cuzco, i went to Avenida Arcopata at 4:15 AM and didn't even have to wait for the bus: you can hop on those taxi-cars that are waiting to be full for leaving. It cost me 10 soles to go to Mollepata and it took 2 hours. A woman is serving a delicious Mate de Quinoa and bread for breakfast right at the Plaza in Mollepata. And it costs 1.5 sol ;) For the way back to Cuzco, I walked back to Hydro-Electrica (but feel free to take the train, 8US$...) and took a combi to Cuzco. It costs 25 Soles and takes... a long time. They say it takes 6 hours, but for me it turned out to be 9. Other option by train, without paying for it! But for early birds only!!! there is a maintenance yellow cart that departs at 4:XX AM everyday from the train station in Cuzco and rides up to kilometer 82 just to check if the ralraod is OK before sending tourist trains from Cuzco. You can walk along the railroad for like 500m and wait for it. Wave your bills when he shows up and hope for the best! I know people who successfully did that. In my case, I couldn't wake up that early after such a hike... Good luck !

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 13th July 2010

Great Info on Supai
Thanks for sharing your trip to Supai, good to know, esp. the washroom situation as I will be heading there myself.

From Blog: Supai in the Offseason
Date: 28th April 2010

Love it with Caution!!!
I think it is clear that I love Puerto Rico and it's people, but it is important to travel there with caution. My friends/family who are from PR would advise the same. I have traveled all over the world (Baja, Yucatan, The United States, Jamaica, Peru, Europe, Hawaii, etc.) and I grew up in a city with some very un-safe neighborhoods. I know when you need to proceed with caution. More than most other places that I've traveled in this world, it is very important that you consider your safety in PR. Peace!!!

From Blog: Avoiding Trouble and Surfing in Puerto Rico
Date: 9th April 2010

Love it or leave it!
You know you got to hate when people come to our Island and just gripe how it's not safe like they're sweet little home in the States... It's another Country folks! And it's like anywhere else, you got good sections and not so good sections, just don't be dumb and know where you're going and you should be fine! I was born on the Island and grew up in Cali, I come back at least twice a year and love it! I've brought a ton of friends with me and no-one has ever had a bad thing to say about PR or our peeps! Love it or leave it I guess...

From Blog: Avoiding Trouble and Surfing in Puerto Rico
Date: 6th April 2010

Salkantay update April 2010
Hi there, Thanks heaps for the helpful info. I just finished Salkantay with a pal and it was absolutely fantastic. Just a quick update on a few minor things which could prove useful for anyone planning to do the trek in the next few months. We saw no fee-stations along the route so I don't think there's any need to scramble around Mollepata or Soray. The train from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes departs daily at 4:30pm. Locals may tell you that the train is only for local people. This is not true. The ticket office opens at about 3pm and you can buy a ticket at that time. The train ride takes about 20 minutes as opposed to a two to three hour walk (we walked but after four days of trekking you might fancy taking a load off your feet). Officials at the Hidroelectrica station told us that we would not be able to buy tickets to Machu Picchu without a train ticket purchased from Cusco. This is not true. A ticket to Machu Picchu can be purchased for 126 Soles at the tourist information centre in Aguas (it's located just off the main square). There were a few mudslides along the route between Colpapampa and Playa. Most of these had been fixed and the trail restored by the time we went though however, the weather at the moment is still variable and more mudslides are predicted. Don't let this put you off but be aware that you may need to take some minor detours to get to your destination. Ask the locals if the trail you plan to take is okay. It most likely will be but if not, alternatives are available. Unless you plan to walk back, book your train ticket in advance. They're booked up a long way in advance at the moment so do it as soon as you get to Cusco. The alternative route back via Santa Teresa (involving a hike and a bus) may not be your cup of tea after a long trek. It also takes about 8 hours to get back to Cusco as opposed to about three via the train. Good luck and enjoy. Cheers, Dale

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 6th January 2010

Kudos
You two are true hikers. I salute you and will be following in your footsteps come august. keep up the good work

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 4th September 2009

Awesome Info
My wife and I are in Cuzco getting ready to start the trip in 2 days. We actually have a copy of this blog printed out for help, along with topo maps of course. Thanks for the great info. You have undoubtedly helped us a ton.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 28th July 2009

Trail is Well Marked, but Not Perfect
The description I gave for the start of the "secret" trail in Mollepata is as good as I can provide. Everyone in town knows where the official start of the trail is, so you can always ask around. The trail was marked well in most places, but at junctions where there was no label we waited until a traveler passed us, and then we asked them which way to go. Keep in mind..... The trail is a passage in which the locals travel on. It is nothing like a desolate hike as we have the United States, it is more like a walk thru various Peruvian communities. If you're confused about which direction to travel someone will pass you soon enough and you can ask them to guide you.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 21st July 2009

Salkantay Trek
Is the trail out of Mollepata marked / is it difficult to navigate your way out of the town and onto the Salkantay trail? Also was your entire trip on a marked trail? Quite a few pics I have been seeing look like there is minimal marking to guide you.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 8th July 2009

Too Long but Not Long Enough
We did the hike in three and a half days days. If there was sunlight, we were hiking. It kicked our *****, but even if it lasted two weeks it would have been worth it. Absolutely beautiful.....

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 7th July 2009

Thanks
I'm going to be heading out there the end of August. You're tips were great! I did a similar trip in Guilin to Yangshuo China, and I highly recommend that on foot as well. How long did the entire trek take you?

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 21st February 2009

Very helpful!
My girlfriend and I are planning a trip and have travelled six continents South America being the last, so a bit tight on cash. We being very active was hoping this was possible thanks for the great tips. If anyone reading is interested on going in the next week let us know!

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 12th February 2009

Thanks a lot
I'm just beginning to research how to get to Machu Picchu without a guide and this was super helpful. Thanks a lot.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 12th November 2008

Great blog
Thanks for the great info. My wife and I are in Cuzco now planning to do this trek without a guide in the next few days, so it's great to know its possible. Thanks for the tips to save a few more Soles also.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide





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