Haole Respect and Surfing in Oahu with Side-Trips to Kauai, Maui, and the Big Island

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After visiting the Hawaiian Islands in 1997, I realized a deep connection with the culture and it’s people along with the landscapes and the surrounding ocean. My ex-girlfriends parents sponsored my trip in 1997, so I stayed at the finest resorts and dined at many of the most reputable restaurants on the islands. Next, I traveled to Oahu in 2000 to attend the wedding of good friend of mine. I returned to Oahu in 2004 to take advantage of the surfing that I had ignored on all my other trips. In 2006, I traveled to the Big Island (Hawaii) where I proposed to my wife. We also spent a few days in Oahu. This article may merge these general experiences into one big blur for the sake of simplicity.

Maui
In 1997, I traveled to Hawaii with my ex-girlfriend and her parents. Our first stop was Maui where we stayed at the Maui Prince Hotel. The hotel was excellent and it provided us with a unique location, as it is the last hotel on Maui’s developed Southwest corner (I'm not sure if it still is). It is walking distance to Makena State Park, where you can blaze your own trail to Big Beach or Little Beach, if you are adventurous. Big Beach is populated by chill locals, and Little Beach is an all-nude experience. Little Beach is not as exciting as it sounds (depending on your preference), considering that most of the people who frequent that beach are gay men. A few hippies and Europeans can be found strolling around, but they are usually very unshaven. Snorkeling at the nearby Molokini Crater (3 miles offshore) is a worthwhile yet crowded experience. Lahaina, on the Northwest corner of the island, is a laid back town with good food and beer. We rented a sea kayak and rode some waves in the harbor, so you can find some active things to do if you want more than food and beer.

Kauai
In Kauai we stayed at the Outrigger Kiahuna Plantation in Koloa on the South side of the island. This hotel has a home-style feel, considering that many of its rentals have kitchens and living rooms. At the nearby Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa there is a cliff jump into the ocean on Shipwreck Beach that is worth the risk. It seems relatively safe; you just need to time your jump with an incoming wave. I waited for a couple of locals to show me how it’s done. On the Northwest corner of the island is the Na Pali Coast State Park. This majestic area is popular for backcountry camping. It is also popular for helicopter and boat tours, so don’t expect to be completely alone there. We took a boat into the park and saw a pack of spinner dolphins along the way. Kauai’s remote feel and local vibe was especially fun, so I would recommend it as a must for visitors to the Hawaiian Islands.

Oahu
My trip to Oahu in 2000 was much more low key. I stayed at county campgrounds and with friends. I sat around and played guitar on the beach and met lots of really mellow locals. As a single guy with a laid back attitude it was easy to blend in with the Hawaiians. There are beautiful hikes all around the island. Kayaking in Waikiki can include some mild rides on waves. Sandy Beach Park is filled with a young crowd giving off a party vibe. Bodysurfing the waves at this beach nicknamed “Breakneck Beach” can take some getting used to. After catching the wave, you have to turn sideways and then let the wave smash you into the sand. If you don’t turn sideways, you’ll hit the sand headfirst and maybe break your neck. This style of bodysurfing applies to many of the beach breaks on the Hawaiian Islands, so be careful when bodysurfing. On the North Shore there is a very safe cliff jump at Waimea Bay. This trip let me know what to expect from Hawaii and really prepared me for my return visit to Oahu in 2004.


By February of 2004, I had managed to get a handle on surfing big New England waves and felt confident enough to give the Hawaiian Mecca of surfing a try. Considering that it’s cheaper than renting, I bought a used board upon arrival for $70. There is a small shop in Diamond Head that I found at one point who stocks lots of used boards, but these days it might just be easier to buy one that is advertised online (craigslist.org). Although rumor has it that Hawaiian surf reports measure the wave from it’s back, not the front, thus resulting in smaller estimates, I did not find the discrepancy to be to confusing. Basically, if you call the surf report and they say the waves are 4-6 feet then it will be a solid 4-6 feet and there will definitely be bigger sets. The crowds are not as bad as some make it out to be, and Hawaiian surfers are not as possessive about their waves as legend has it. I was very cautious to follow the rules of surfing, so I ran into no problems. In Hawaii, you really have to keep an eye out for other surfers before you drop into a wave, and you need to duck dive and hang on to your board when a wave comes that you aren’t going to catch.


The waves were 10’ plus Hawaiian on the first day I went out, and I was a bit concerned with my ability to handle that size, so I went to “Tracks” on the Leeward Side (West) of Oahu hoping for smaller sets. The West side Oahu has a strong local contingent, so I approached with caution. I respected the locals and asked them if I should watch out for any obstacles etc. Everyone I met was waaayyy helpful, and a few locals even cheered me on when I caught my first wave. The largest waves were no more than 10’ that day, so it seems “Tracks” takes a little bit less of the North swell than many other spots. The next day, I surfed on the North Shore in a larger swell, predicted to be 15’ Hawaiian. I would say the waves were 20’ that day, which was way too big for me. I caught nothing. The next day, the swell decreased to 8’ Hawaiian and it was more than manageable. I surfed at “Marijuana’s” with a couple of locals and had a great day. I also got many rides at relatively un-crowded Sunset Beach. After surfing it was nice to be able to sit back in the parking lot watch the sun set and drink a beer. That luxury of drinking alcohol in public is non-existent on the mainland, but is un-enforced in Hawaii. I went to “Makaha” the following day and surfed more sizeable conditions, and my final day had me back to “Tracks”. One thing to note is that the majority of Hawaiian woman rode boogie boards, although some of the girls did surf. Most of the brah’s on the West side thought I was local, so I got along well with them. They offered to smoke me out and they liked listening to me play guitar…. Very chill……


On my return trip to Oahu in December of 2006, I finally did some surfing in Waikiki. The competition is much less fierce on the South side, considering the large tourist contingent that rides those waves. I found an odd sense of beauty while surfing in front of high-rise hotels that were placed in front of tropical mountains. That same trip I went to “Makaha” on a triple overhead day. Again, it was way too large for me. There were only a few guys catching waves, and there were about thirty haoles floating off to the side who were never going to catch any waves. The scene was far more organized than in 2004. They now had lifeguards patrolling the waters on their jet skis and pulling surfers out of semi-dangerous zones after their rides. Paddle boarders, who were relatively non-existent only two years prior, stole waves from longboarders. Later that day I went to “Tracks” and had no luck catching any waves. A few days later I returned to “Makaha” when the size and conditions were much more manageable, but the crowds were extra-mega heavy and I caught nothing. I didn’t mind sucking so bad on this trip, considering I had already had some good times on these breaks in the past.


Aside from surfing, Oahu has many recommended attractions. Waikiki is like Venice Beach times a thousand. The Ala Moana shopping mall is un-comparable to the trashy malls we have in New England. The flea market at Aloha Stadium open Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays is enormous and so inexpensive it feels like you’re stealing. A few miles from Waikiki you can snorkel with the tour busses at Hanauma Bay. The site of the Pearl Harbor attack is respectful and filled with quiet emotions. Sea World overlooks the ocean on a beautiful portion of the Windward Side of the island. The Polynesian Cultural Center on the East side of the island is a Disney-esque display of the Hawaiian people. The North Shore has excellent roadside dining. The list goes on and on……

The Big Island
Our trip to the Big Island gave me a completely different outlook on life in Hawaii. This is the island I have really fallen in love with. The flight to Keahole-Kona International Airport had us land on an airstrip that was built on new earth created by a lava flow. The West side of the island had amazing resorts and beautiful beaches. Hapuna beach had a good mix of locals and tourist. To avoid breaking your back bodysurfing the waves at Hapuna you had to spin sideways just after catching the wave. Then you let the wave smash you into the sand. Besides our stay at local campgrounds, we stayed at the Kona Seaside Hotel, which I would recommend. It is walking distance from downtown and many rooms have ocean views. Downtown Kona is a fun tourist town with gift shops and good restaurants. It is often recommended to snorkel near (Captain) Cook’s Monument in Kealakekua Bay. Although there is a secret trail to the snorkel area, most people park across the bay, and kayak over to the monument. We decided to look into that route, but once we were there we decided not to rent kayaks and just snorkel over to Cook’s Monument. Jellyfish nearly ate us alive on our journey, so we never made it to the prime snorkeling area, but we did sea a Manta Ray and other cool things. Nearby is Pu’unohua o Honaunau National Historical Park where the locals snorkel at Keoneele Cove. We saw lots of fish and sea turtles at this site, and watched the Hawaiian kids play in the water while the older folks tailgated and drank beer.


The South side of the Big Island was especially secluded and majestic. Black Sand Beach offered more snorkeling with turtles and it had a wonderful tropical vibe. We left right when the tour busses arrived, so it may be overcrowded if you are there at the wrong time of day. Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park had incredible permanent geographical landmarks. The lava tubes (caves) were amazing and the large calderas that once supported lava flows from the past were remarkable sites. The walk to see the actual lava flow from the Pu’u ‘O’u crater into the ocean was only a few miles. It is usually done at night so you can get a better view of the glowing lava, therefore a flashlight is a big help. It is recommended that you stay far from the actual flow, so binoculars are a necessity. Watching lava flow is one of the most serene experiences I’ve ever had. Camping in park can be quite cold, so if you take that route, be prepared.


The Puna area on the South side of the island has it’s own highlights. You can access the Pu’u ‘O’u lava flow from the opposite side (East), although I’m not sure how far in you are allowed to travel from this location. There is a local bar run by Hawaiian Nationalists that sells Kava-Kava juice. The stuff kinda’ makes you trip so beware. This is one of the few places you will see overt requests by the Hawaiians for Independence from the United States so the vibe is different, but it’s respectable. Kehena Beach is swarming with nude hippies. We found a pack of dolphins at this beach and snorkeled with the dolphins (and nudists) for hours. This was an absolutely incredible experience. Nearby, you can bathe at the Ahalanui Hot Springs. It seems odd to sit in hot water when you are in a tropical environment, but it is unusually refreshing. The town of Puna seemed like an odd mix of locals, wealthy tourists, and hippies. Our conclusion is that this mix does not work. I would hesitate to return to Puna in the future.


We used Hilo as a base for visiting Puna and Mauna Kea (the highest peak). Hilo has a really fun zoo that does not charge admission. There are also lots of sites nearby where you can view waterfalls. The drive to the Visitor Center at Mauna Kea is amazing as it gives you a view of the island from above the clouds. We stayed at the Wild Ginger Inn, which served us the absolute best breakfast meal I’ve ever had on the Hawaiian Islands and possibly my life!!!! I highly recommend the hotel, so long as you are laid back and don’t need many amenities. North of Hilo on the East side of the island is Laupahoehoe Point. This lesser known park is situated along steep cliffs and is beautiful and un-crowded. When we got there, it was New Years Eve and we saw a Hawaiian family celebrating a wedding, so that helped make it a really wonderful place. I guess Waipi’o Valley is an incredible place to visit, but we only viewed it from above, so I can’t say much about it. We also skipped the town of Waimea, but it seemed nice and rainy and wet.

General Information
Permits for camping are available two weeks in advance and must be made in person at only a few locations on the island. I don’t think this policy has changed. Because of this, most of the campers are Hawaiian residents. The more pristine campgrounds fill up fast. The campgrounds are also closed for a couple days each week for clean up. There are some unwritten rules regarding camping at any of the county parks. You don’t really need a permit to stay at the less popular campsites. Most campgrounds do not have gates or full time employees keeping track of things. Many of the locals actually live at the campgrounds and they don’t move, even when the park is closed for clean up. If you pack in and out each night and stay at the less popular campsites, you should never have a problem. The authorities are more concerned with locals causing trouble, so they are less likely to hassle a tourist haole. Some campsites are not in very safe neighborhoods, so it’s good to research the area before you decide to camp there. Theft is common in Hawaii, so it is wise to avoid bringing any valuables at all, especially if you plan to camp. While surfing on the North Shore, I talked to a few guys and every one of them had their house broken into at one point or another. After my last surf session before flying home, I left my surfboard unattended for about 15 minutes and it was stolen. My intention was to give it to someone anyway, but it is interesting how quickly it disappeared. Anyway, when I travel I generally don’t bring valuables, and therefore I don’t worry about having things stolen.


Rocky shorelines, currents, sharks, and surfers are obstacles/considerations to be aware of when swimming in Hawaii. Drivers often don’t use turn signals and instead point with their finger/hand to describe which direction they plan to turn.
They also pull in front of you, forcing you to slow down, and then they give you a friendly wave.
The locals don’t refer to the roads by their assigned numbers.
In other words Highway 63 is called the Likelike Highway.
They often will not even know what your talking about if you ask them where Highway 63 is.

Campground Links
Oahu
The Big Island
State Park Information and Camping

Oahu Surf Report
808-596-7873

Links to Download Surf Maps
Stormrider Guide - The World - Hawaii - The Big Island
Stormrider Guide - The World - Hawaii - Oahu North Shore
Surf Hawaii - Oahu
Wave Finder - Oahu West Coast

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Comments

[birdi]

Luv it! miss It
Can't wait to return! say AloHa to Jim & Frank! Birdi :-)