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Published: October 9th 2008
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Monkey
Unfortunately there weren´t any monkeys on the world´s most dangerous road...you need to read on for the monkey bit! (Matt)
-The World´s Most Dangerous Road- It is estimated that every year, 200 to 300 people die travelling down the 43 miles of vertical descent that basically consists of a dirt track road carved into a canyon from La Paz to a village called Coroico. With no safety barriers or guard rails and drops of 1,600 ft, cycling down the road (aptly nicknamed ´Death Road´) is not the first thing that springs to mind. However, that´s what I decided to do (thanks Soph for your blog on this!), Catherine didn´t fancy it. This was firmly in the category of things you tell your mum afterwards!
A number of companies run mountain biking trips down the road but this is the kind of thing where saving a few extra pounds doesn´t really cut it, like Stella Artois I wanted something ´reassuringly expensive´with brakes that work and tyres that aren´t worn. I went with ´Downhill Madness´and was really pleased with their professional approach and specialist downhill mountain bikes worth over £2000 each. Luckly I´m not supersticious because after I paid for the trip I was given my complimentary ´Death Road Survivor´T-shirt, I decided not to wear it on the decent
as if something did go wrong I wouldn´t be able to stand the irony!
Starting at 4700m our group of nine (plus two guides) didn´t so much ride down the road as plunge. As we got used to the bike on the paved road the weather started to change for the worse. By the time we hit the unpaved ´Death Road´proper I was soaked, had rain flying into my eyes and couldn´t see more than a few yards ahead, or more importantly to the side where the big drops were! It really was an amazing ride if somewhat disconcerting as our guide kept referring to the sharp U-turns by the nationality of the cyclists who had died there ´watch out for French girl corner´ etc... apparently twelve mountain bikers have died in ten years.
After five hours of sitting on a bike and concentrating like mad it really did feel like an achievement and a relief to reach the end. The next stop on our trip was Rurrenabaque and to get there by bus you sometimes go down ´Death Road´with this in mind and the number of hours it takes, we decided to fly!
Rurrenabaque Pampas Tour What an amazing flight it was to the jungle town of Rurrenabaque, we flew with TAM (Transporte Aéreo Militar) which is a millitary flight company a bit like if the Royal Airforce decided to go into the commerical flight business. Passing armed guards and turrets on the way to check-in was surreal. On the flight the views of the snow capped South American Andes and the jungle were fantastic. When we landed on the mud hardened runway in the middle of the jungle it was like being in an Indian Jones film and felt so adventurous.
Our main reason for being in Rurrenabaque was to do a Pampas Tour which takes three days and involves a boat ride along the Yacuma River (a tributary of the Amazon). The tour companies promise abundant wildlife including: crocodiles, alligators, pirhanas, monkeys, pink dolphins and the promise of anacondas. After hours of careful research we booked with a highly regarded company... only to be transferred (unbeknown to us) onto a different less regarded company...thanks a lot!
Our group was made up of Catherine myself and six Israelis. Setting off in the canoe was incredibly exciting and within minutes we had seen
This is what I mean about the conditions!
If you look carefully you can see our group standing by the edge. loads of evil looking alligators plus loads of other wildlife.
Just before we reached our camp we stopped to look at some monkeys and in search of bananas (they are used to being fed by other tourists) they boarded our boat like little monkey pirates! This surprise attack caused a fair bit of disruption in our boat and almost capsized us into the murky crocodile infested waters. I remember reading once that it´s possible to hold a crocodile´s mouth closed because their muscles are devoloped for snapping closed and could easily bite your arm or leg off but are not so strong for opening, luckly we didn´t have to test this!
After about three hours we arrived at our jungle accomodation which consisted of large wooden huts containing a kitchen/dining area and numerous dormatories. In the evening we went upriver to a jungle bar to watch a virtually non-existent sunset but nevertheless the cold beer was a nice surprise.
Some of the activities over the next few days included Anaconda spotting (one of the Israeli guys found one, denting our guide´s pride who then spent another hour and a half trying to find another with no luck!)
The World´s Most Dangerous Road
This was on the disk I was given at the end but I´m sure it was taken on a different day. Good shot though! and Pirhana fishing. Using a line, a hook and some meat for bait, Pirhana fishing was excellent fun and Catherine proved to be a natural, catching two...I on the other hand just ended up feeding them from my hook! I didn´t get a single one... damn things! Despite this, we´ll both be putting Pirhana fishing in the interests section of our CV from now on!
Returning to La Paz we stayed in a really interesting hostel called Hosteria Blanquita, it had large vines growing over balconies inside the enclosed reception area. The hostel was really interesting and good value for money. However, we left our backpacks in the locked hostel storage room while we went out and when we collected them later that day Catherine noticed her rain jacket had gone and I noticed my metal cup was missing. The staff were completely indifferent to this and it was only later that I found out by searching the internet that other people have had money taken from the hotel safe...notices in the rooms urge you to leave your belongings with reception, I´m starting to think I know why!
Catherine now joins the majority of travellers who´ve had something
stolen in South America and my list of things: broken, lost or stolen is increasing rapidly! It keeps the weight of my backpack manageable! Despite this, we are reallyh enjoying ourselves in South America and are looking forward to our next destinations of Sucre and Potosi.
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sophie dyas
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rainy death road
I don't know if I'd have been brave enough to cycle down in those conditions- well done Matt! xx