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Published: August 13th 2008
May 14th… Manang - Yak Kharka - Letdar
We woke up in the morning back in Manang, feeling content with our nice room, clean blanket, and attached toilet… How could we be happier? Smelling the nice coffee and bakery being baked when you just opened your eyes… Yes, you could absolutely smell it! It made up my day… made my spirit high thinking that my breakfast would be a good coffee and tuna sandwich, and may be brownies??? Or may be chocolate croissant every body? It’s hard to resist not to taste every single items they display in the front of the bakery shop. I still remembered how I always managed to finish every single bite of big portion Tuna Lasagna they have in their menu. Back home, I never really triggered to have lasagna menu like while being here. Whatever they have in the menu seems to really blossom my appetite. Manang is the place to eat and relax Guys! Never forget that… even a skinny girl like me would eat everything with the various menu available, considering your limited choices along the trek that made me stick to nodle soup and egg.
Today, we had to
continue walking to Yak Kharka from Manang. We would be away again from civilization (Manang is the most civilized village in this circuit where you could have all the European food and bakery available! May be I should consider to open a Thai or Asia restaurant over there??? Hahaha… why not??? Culinary adventure is combined with trekking adventure? Some one would need some changes after eating dal bhat and Tibetan bread every day right? I would dream of eating Thai or Indonesian Food in Manang… Beef rendang every body???)
Feeling at ease, easy and relax we continued walking with a goal to reach at least Yak Kharka or one village after today. We didn’t forget the logistic side of our last part of Annapurna Circuit… namely complementing ourselves by buying lots of croissant and bread just in case we didn’t find good food along the way. I found it useful last time to have croissant on the way to Tilicho Lake, so I’ll do it again now.
My upper leg injury got a little bit better, Dipu gave it a massage last nite. I remembered last nite when we arrived in the hotel, it’s already dark… about dinner
time… and I barely could walk so everybody in the restaurant looked at me questionally. “Where does this girl come from? She looked so miserable!”. Yes right, I looked so miserable last nite, arriving in Manang, walking even in the flat ground with my pole… and couldn’t even step up and down at the normal stair, I really attracted people attention (it felt like celebrity on vacation… hahaha!). Well, then the owner of the hotel was asking how was Tilicho Lake experient while we’re still having trouble actually recovering our “magically safe return by losing our camera but still happy”.
“Yes, we just came back from Tilicho Lake every body… and the lake was frozen… it was a bit dangerous (and a lot more dangerous for me), but the place was magic… I got upper leg injury, and the landslides was horrible… However, we’re proud and happy we did it!” Wow, I sound like an expert now talking about our heroic effort to go to Tilicho Lake. (And let me tell you my little secret… Sssst… I do have a plan to come back to Tilicho Lake when the lake is not frozen and they said it’s only possible
to see the what so called “as blue as a blue sky lake” during summer or monsoon ). And the Tilicho Lake spirits and inhabitants will be welcoming back personally (I guess) as a stubborn girl that insist on coming to Tilicho Lake last time without any walking skills, and suddenly became a pro! Mmmm… sounds good right?
OK… let’s continue… (where were we now?). Well, walking to Yak Kharka. A nice walk I could say (after Tilicho Lake), no pressure… passing one village where we stopped for a while to refill water… Sometime we saw villagers riding horses passing by, I guessed it’s their main means of transportation here. One time, I saw a lady riding a horse with a baby in her one arm and the other arm was controlling leash of the saddle. I imagined “the ancient Chinese Kung Fu movie” seeing the way this lady hold her baby in her arm while riding a horse. I didn’t know how could she keep her balance on the horse while the horse was actually running, not just walking!
During mid day we arrived at Yak Kharka already. Having lunch in Yak Kharka, I just realized that
even they had good food in Yak Kharka and lots of nice room. I tried Dipu fried rice, it tasted so good… and my “stick to” noodle habit is still on… but I guessed I should have ordered something else because I could see that they cooked the food right!
The village looked a bit busy… I guessed they had kind of maoist festive, by making lots of tents preparing bread and tea, and lots of remote villagers just came from the mountain that you could see from far distance like ants, coming down a mountain.
I thought we missed this festive since we decided to continue walking to Letdar (to early to stop walking in the mid day). But later on, I regret that I didn’t stay in Yak Kharka and join the villagers over there. Besides, our lodge was suck in Letdar… and my tuna and rice for dinner, almost made me having stomach upset. And according to Dipu, the staff there was kind of weird with their nepali punky style. We couldn’t move in another lodges since the other lodge was full (there are only 2 lodges in Letdar). There’s no bathroom, and the toilet
was very dirty that made me think of peeing just like Yaks… just pee and poo on the grass! Lucky as a woman, I’m always ready with my wet tissues and dry tissues. It’s proven helpful to have it during the circuit although Dipu ended up using almost all of my wet tissues.
Anyway, it’s only one night in Letdar… besides, I was ok because the lodge has clean blanket here… at least clean blanket guys… at least clean blanket is enough to keep me happy…
May 15th… Letdar - Thorung Pedi - High Camp
Our 15th day in the circuit… I was longing for a paradise look alike experiences in Thorung La Pass. They said it was wonderful, but I wouldn’t call it wonderful until I see it with my very own eyes.
From Letdar, we walked slowly to Thorung Pedi. There was almost nothing along the way, and we found only 1 teahouse to stop after walking for almost 2 hour. It’s an empty walk again except the trekkers that seems always left us behind (no wonder, it’s not that they walked too fast but I was just too slow!). But I always
had my excuses to Dipu, saying that “of course I’m slow… they have porter to carry their backpack while I don’t!” Actually, that’s not really true… we barely had anything to carry with no sleeping back and Dipu already cut half of my backpack by carrying mine. Next I would complain having stomach upset so I can’t walk faster (hehe…). Other time I would remind Dipu, “You should thank me because I walked slow enough so you can enjoy the nature more… also we have plenty of time to adjust our breathing due to altitute. If I let you walking too fast the way you always do, we would end up like that Korean couple we met that having Altitude Mountain Syndrome (AMS) so they had to immediately descending because they were too fast!” Mmmm… my excuses were merely because I was too embarrassed walking like a grandma here, actually Dipu has never really complained about it.
It’s already pretty high on the way to Thorung Pedi, so I found myself breathing faster and going up was already quite an effort. Breathing normally was not possible for me anymore, it was more like mouth breathing while walking. There was
a little landslide area too on the way to Pedi, however, we’ve been at the worst one already in Tilicho… so as a suddenly pro trekker (doesn’t matter how slow I walk, it doesn’t count right?) I told myself “GO GIRL!!! There’s nothing can stop you to reach Thorung La Pass!”.
I remember that going to Thorung Pedi was an ok walk. It’s actually going uphill, but not that extreme. There was always a flat part after the uphill one, enough for us to recover our breathe. But we could see that we’re in between of mountains already. I didn’t really know for exact whether I could call it mountain or not. According to Dipu, “we in Nepal only call it mountain if its hight already above 6 to 7 thousand meter above sea level!”. Well Dipu… in my country I call it mountain already if its hight already 3 thousand meter above sea level. And he would say, “It’s not mountain but hill!”… What could I say then???
We arrived in Pedi around 2pm, feeling satisfied that “Wow… it’s pretty early!” while actually everybody already arrived in Pedi lots earlier than us. Thorung Pedi seemed like a
cowboy village for me. And again, I was surprised that technology already reach this village… They have Internet connection here!
The combination of altitude, strong wind and the sun really made us easily tired. You could feel the effect of sun already here, actually even our lips started to bleed no matter how often we put the lipbalm. I took a picture of Dipu lips bleeding… funny!
We were having lunch in the nice big glassy window style restaurant. For me, it felt like being in aerospace jet in Star War movie. You could see from the restaurant how close the mountain is… beauuuuutiful…. Believe me! The food was good here too… with plenty of choices, and I was happy since Dipu bought me apples here (fruits is such a luxury in the circuit until you reach Jomson). I felt like a millionare already just by having apples… how proud!
It’s a sunny day… and we decided to head up to the High Camp. Going to High Camp means that we have to go uphill for another 30 - 45 minutes (they said!), well actually it took us 2 hours with luxurious break all the time as
usual. It’s very uphill, so for the sake of saving time tomorrow for our Big Day Passing Thorung La… we’d rather stay overnight at the Highcamp although Thorung Pedi looked really a lot nicer and warmer than Highcamp with lots of choices to eat.
It’s almost dark when we reached High Camp… and it’s very cold too. But somehow, they had electric heater in the restaurant so we could keep our feet warm. Dipu found the electric heater, so we were the first one to move to this heater section of the restaurant in High Camp. Then came other trekkers joining us, and finally everybody ended up sitting in our table with heater. FYI, they only had 1 heater for all the guests… and it’s very cold there you could feel your feet was almost chilled and frozen like being in the big fridge, frozen compartment.
We decided to sleep early around 9 pm so we had enough rest for our special day tomorrow. It was so cold in the bedroom… but we finally managed to sleep around 10 pm, actually may be couldn’t sleep until about 11pm… planning to wake up tomorrow at 4 am, getting ready
and leaving High Camp around 5 am.
May 16th… High Camp - Thorung La Pass - Muktinath
We did wake up the next day around 4 am, but continued sleeping until 5 am (hahaha…) and was so lazy to leave our warm bed going outside. We repacked up our stuff, wearing 5 layers of clothes, preparing our headtorches outside to walk in the dark, brushing teeth and had a lazy breakfast before leaving… checking our logistic part (water and food), and by the time we left High Camp we found that everybody actually left us already… again we’re the last one leaving the lodge… and it’s not dark anymore around 6.30 am. We wouldn’t need the headtorch…
Started walking from the highcamp… already we had to walk in the snow at some point. After going uphill for a while, we always rewarded by a flat part… and again up hill… and again flat. Unlike the circuit part up to Manang, going up and down… now there’s only going up and flat… going up and flat. I imagined this as our journey in life, in the first part is the curve of learning as you go up
and down… up and down… doing mistakes and learning… doing mistakes again and learning again! Then comes the second part where you became more mature (this is more like Highcamp part up to Thorung La Pass) as you can only go higher and higher to achieve whatever life reveal to you, step by step going up… resting… going up… and resting… until you find the peak of your life circle… find the meaning of life… and then comes the third part of your life, getting older and let the new generation take over your place… as your physical being is eaten by time… as you have made the upmost of your life and there comes a period of waiting for the reunion with whatever the power of your existence, when your soul is flying to heaven, and your body is back to its basic elements… mother of earth, sand… water… and air.
Ok, enough philosophy… let’s talk about walking to the pass now. Guys… it’s not our backpack that slow us down, but it’s the lesser oxygen in the air as we’re breathing. It just seemed impossible to walk fast even if you were a pro, as you try
Yak Kharka
my face is burned alreadyto utilize the most of available oxygen in the air… gasping for more oxygen while walking. There was only one tea house to stop after approximately 2 hours from highcamp, then nothing and no life being not even plantation until Muktinath. We’re surrounded by emptiness… and mountain of sand… stones… and snow. It’s not really a very stif uphill actually, but slowly ascending became so tiring because of this altitude and lesser oxygen.
I felt like walking in the moon (well… never been in the moon, but may be it’s like that!). It’s all sandy mountain, strangely looked so beautiful with some icing snow when you walk. We’re actually walking in the middle of mountains that look so close to our face. Breathing heavily didn’t disturb this amazing mountain view, walked following the flag as our direction since there’s no way to ask people where to go except this quiet mountains that can only talk to you in your dream. These mountains talk to you, invite you to come, but when you actually come… it can only show its true faces with a message, “you have come here not to conquer but to survive, so be it!”
We
took a rest at almost at every flag we passed, and resting every here and there… Everytime we saw a nice stone to sit, we would for sure stop and rest. I didn’t worry at all what time we would reach Thorung La Pass, so finally around 11:15 am, we arrived at a place where there are so many stones… that’s still not yet the pass. They said we ‘re only 16m away from the Pass (we met local people there passing us). I collected some stones and having fun for a while trying to arrange the stones like what locals do.
We’re not that far from the Pass, so happily walking to the pass we finally reached it at 11:30am. We were again the last couple to be there, everybody seemed to walk so fast downhill. After a few compulsory pictures taken, we’re heading down. It’s already quite cloudy at 11 am, now I understand why they recommend trekkers to leave early and to reach the pass before midday. Of course you didn’t wanna be trapped in the cloud without any senses of direction. And that’s exactly what happened to us…. OH MY… this adventure has not yet
ended…
So… we saw lots of junk, plastic bottle on the pass… and we felt so sorry about it, wishing that trekkers become more responsible and knowledgable not to destroy nature by throwing plastic in this extremely fragile environment.
I thought we saw a glimpse of Thorung La, it’s so big and fatty like a pregnant mother… It’s only a few second we could see it, enough for us to take a very quick picture and then it disappeared in the cloud again. So happy to personally saw this harvest mother! (If I’m not mistaken, Thorung La means harvest mother in Nepali).
It’s all about going down now… and you could only see mountain of sand, and we had to follow the flag still as our sign of direction. It’s a loooooong journey going down, and it’s foggy… plus snowing… and so dry as you could only see sand everywhere. We could barely have a 5 meter clear vision as we walk down. I thought we would only walk for 3 - 4 hours. But I found we walked endlessly until we were passing the cloud in the hill, as we could clearly see the shape of the
cloud blocking the hill side only but not the valley. And it’s already around 5 pm. We have already walked down for 6 hours, and still not yet arrived at our next stop.
This gonna be the last hill we pass since we could see a village from far away distance, looked so heavenly with the sun shining down to this particular village. Seriously, it’s like in the fairytale… from the last hill you could see a line between the cloud in the air and this very sunny village. And we’re actually still in this cloudy area as you could see the sun from a distance. It looked so close while it’s actually still very far, and that’s Muktinath I hope, our next stop.
We got some problem while going down after Thorung La. Remember when I mentioned earlier that I had upper leg injury going back from Tilicho Lake to Manang? I mentioned that I had problem going down since my leg couldn’t support the pressure of going down. Well, I thought I have already recovered from this injury… but it happened again after the pass. It’s too much going down so my leg started aching and
I barely could walk. And this last hill going down looked so damn stiff, I started to cry because every step I made was so terribly painful. So Dipu had to lead my way, since my legs were not strong enough to support my body going down, I would definitely fall down without any walking aid. I almost gave up walking, and I told Dipu to find some help… or any rescue available. I couldn’t walk and it’s already 5 pm, and the next village looked so far away.
We did see a few house down the hill, so I asked Dipu to leave me and find villagers or may be horse to help me. Then Dipu went down without me, and he found an empty lodges/houses. I was trying to walk slowly, and I found Dipu got me back and he said no one and nothing here.
For a while we’re worried that we are lost since it’s almost dark, and I could barely walk to reach the next village. And there’s no rescue available, no one passing by since this route is only for trekkers doing the Thorung La Pass. This is not the route for
villagers passing by for bringing logistics (what so called donkey trail). For your information, this Thorung La pass separates two districts which is Manang and Mustang. So all Manang district logistic is supplied from one side route before Thorung La Pass, and Mustang district is supplied from the other side after Thorung La Pass. You could obviously see the differences of this two areas separated by mountain. Mustang district is more desert like… while in Manang you could see more greenery. But actually for me, both sides has different tastes and both is beautiful.
Worried being lost, we decided to check the map and read the book again to check whether we were on the right trail. Anyway, with no one to ask, morever the name of this empty village was not really written in any guide book or map we had in hand, we had no other choices than keep on walking to reach the village we saw from the last hill. I collected all of my power left fighting my aching leg to walk, and tried to look not so bad… not to spread my worry to Dipu by saying I could still walk. Well, actually I
felt so painful walking with this injury.
We finally reached the bridge (we saw it from the hill), and we felt like we got closer to our next stop whatever it is. We crossed this suspension bridge and hoped that there would be a lodge right after, in fact nothing until we saw a sign going to Muktinath. “Oh thank God! We’re not lost at last!”. It’s almost dark as we keep on walking, and then we stopped when we saw a map of Muktinath as we’re welcomed to Muktinath Temple area.
It’s 7 pm already by the time we reached this village, and the big white wall we saw at the entrance was Muktinath Temple area. We’re welcomed by seeing lots of pilgrims and Sadhus, and I could barely walk still so Dipu still had to hold my hand at any step going down. Dipu finally managed to find a lodge for us to stay, and by the time I opened my shoes my feet were actually swollened. It’s so big so I felt my oversize trekking shoes was even not big enough for this growing feet of mine. Then here I sweared myself, I wouldn’t wear
my trekking shoes until I get back in Pokhara. I didn’t feel like wearing shoes anymore, besides my feet is so big… and so white already having to wear shoes everyday and walking for so long.
We arrived at dinner time, so we ordered our dinner. Dipu ordered Dal Bhat, and me got Meat Momo. I just realized that if they cook it right, Momo is one of the most delicious food in Nepal. And here in Muktinath I found the best Momo ever cooked by this Tibetan Lady that had some problems with Dipu. Dipu told me that this Tibetan Lady is so rude that she asked “how much do you eat!” when Dipu asked her to refill his Dal Bhat. You knew that Dal Bhat is an “as much as you can eat” refillable kind of meal in the circuit right? And she felt hesitant to refill Dipu’s Dal Bhat so Dipu had to explain that we’ve been walking for more than 12 hours passing Thorung La with no restaurant to stop for meal… so of course we’re so hungry now and “PLEAASE refill our so DAMN dal bhat!”. Hihihi… I felt like Dipu was losing his
patience with this lady after all! (anyway, my meat momo is heaven!).
As the problem never end, being so tired after the ‘pass’ day … we woke up in the evening couldn’t sleep anymore since we had a new friend in the room… I thought this mouse family was trying to make friend with us so we could hear clearly they’re chatting with each other on our roof, dancing here and there partying… Oh God… I would never forget this “Rat” bedroom we had in Muktinath.
May 17th… Muktinath - Jomson
We woke up in the morning, planning to go to Muktinath Temple before heading to Jomson. And we decided to take a jeep available recently from Muktinath to Jomson. After this upper leg injury, I called it quit to fly back to Pokhara from Jomson. I couldn’t walk anymore, my feet were so big… so I called it quit, no more walking. I was already happy enough to be able to go to Tilicho Lake, passing Thorung La, and arrived in Muktinath… and I couldn’t be happier… I didn’t accept anything less beautiful than where we’ve been, so let me keep it that way… and
fly back to Pokhara tomorrow is our decision so we could have a few days relaxing in Pokhara before flying back home.
Some people (most of it) continued walking from Muktinath, Kagbeni, Jomson till the end of the circuit for another few days. I couldn’t be bothered anymore to walk from Jomson since I felt so content already after passing Thorung La Pass and my Tilicho Lake. There’s no more challenge for me after these two.
We had our croissant (still have it from Manang) for breakfast plus my meat momo, getting ready to go to Muktinath Temple as it looked so nice yesterday when we passed it in the dark. According to Dipu, Muktinath is a very sacred place for all Hindus people. May be it’s like Mecca and Jerussalem for Moslem and Christian. Muktinath means the land of liberation, to free people from all of their burden in life. This is a very holy place with 108 sacred spring water where Hindis from all over the world coming here to clean their body and soul by taking a shower in this bloody cold water and make their wishes to get the blessing from the Goddes of
Muktinath.
This spiritual place was so amazing in my eyes, with a view overlooking sandy and ice mountain, and a very nice weather… I could feel how holy it is although I didn’t really understand this Lord Shiva followers and their religion practice. First step for them is to go inside Muktinath Temple, and took a shower at 108 holy water, and then going to arrange stones in 1 place (they believe that this stones would be their house when they die) so I did the same (may be the God of Muktinath would grant me a house as a tourist in this temple when I die?). And after that they’re going to other temples in this complex where there is an eternal flame.
I managed to go inside Muktinath Temple with Dipu bringing our offering (we bought it on the way to Muktinath temple), gave it to the temple lady inside muktinath so she gave us orange scarf in return and after that we had to walk around the Goddes statue clockwise. Afterward, there’s a gentleman outside temple putting tika on our forehead. It was a very long queue in front of the temple, lots of pilgrims
coming with helicopters so they’re very busy and rushing due to limited time they have with this helicopter charter while they have to complete all rituals here.
It looked so interesting for me from the beginning, they have pool in front of the temple with orangish sadhus sitting and laying down so relaxing near the pool… and I saw a few pilgrims praying outside the temple… it’s a very busy pilgrimage area with lots of activities! I also saw a beautiful girl running with sarong only under this 108 holy water… One thing for sure, they looked so cheerful and happy because they’re meeting their God in Muktinath. Well, I was happy too! Because I could feel the good energy in this area attracting people from all over the world to come here. I might not recognize Muktinath God as my God, but I did recognize how kind the power of universe that I know as God to have such a beautiful place where people pray and purify themselves in Muktinath, the land of liberation, to liberate yourself from anything that tie you down in our now materialistic world!
After going inside the temple, Dipu decided to take
a shower under this 108 holy water… So he ran so quick under the spring… and I asked him to do it 3 times that he did so! (hehehe… actually people only do it 1 time). I myself only touched this cold water and rub it on my forehead 108 times…
Around 11pm, we finished our sudden unplanned ritual in Muktinath temple so we went back to the lodge and walked to the jeep station. Actually there were a few jeeps available daily from Jomson to Muktinath, mostly for the pilgrims. But the jeep only leave after they got enough of 14 passengers. We were the first two to be in the station, so we had to wait for so long for other passengers. Getting bored to wait, we decided to take a little tour to Tibetan temple nearby that look so nice from outside… and by the time we’re back, our seat at the first jeep was already taken by others so they said that we had to go with the second jeep! Ck ck ck… so complicated!
Anyway, a very bumpy jeep experience was not so bad afterall. We saw a very strong wind and dust
everywhere on this road that happened to be the trail for trekkers as well. May be being in the jeep for 1 or 1.30 hour, we safely arrived in Jomson.
Another cowboy city… we managed to book our ticket to Pokhara for tomorrow by the time we arrive in Jomson. And after that I felt so determined to taste the so famous Apple Pie in Jomson, so there we go… We bumped again at a coffee shop and bakery with the nice Israeli Couple we first met in Tilicho Base Camp, so we exchanged story again about our last couple of days experiences.
While Dipu tried to find the best room in this region (I really longed for good room with inside bathroom), I had a nice chat with this Israeli Couple. As we exchanged stories, we had a laugh together when they told us about the rat room in Muktinath… we found that we both stay in the same rat bedroom in Muktinath! Huahaha!
They also mentioned that I really don’t miss anything by taking jeep to Jomson instead of walking. They said that the wind was too strong that they found it difficult to walk.
Besides, there came the dust with the strong wind making it even more uncomfortable to walk. Anyway, they’ve been eating lots and lots of apple pie since they arrived… they can’t help themselves to stop since it just so tasty… and IT IS TASTY…. I loved it too…
The wind was also extremely strong in Jomson making us lazy to explore the village. Besides, our bedroom was really nice in Jomson, it’s the best bedroom we had in the circuit… with hot bathtub inside the room… mmm…. Luxurious! We also had our private dining area… I was just so happy to be here! And tomorrow… is gonna be Pokhara!
Since Muktinath, I couldn’t stop my Momo eating habbit so Dipu started to call me “Momo Freak!”. Well, after the noddle soup and boiled egg as my standard daily meal… no one wont agree more with me that ‘Momo’ is actually the best food invention in this region after Dal Bhat. Hehehe…. So I tried to eat as much as possible Momo as often as I could… started thinking I might open a Momo restaurant, that my original idea got rejected by Dipu since he said “the guests will
complain since you will eat all the Momo before the Momo is even served in their table!”. That might be right… so forget it!
Our flight next day is around 7.30am. And the ticket officer said that we should be at the airport 1 hour before.
May 18th… Jomson - Pokhara
We woke up in the morning seeing the golden sunrise mountain from the window of our bedroom. So beautiful… Today is our last day in the circuit, and I didn’t regret anything during my 18 days trekking. It was a very special moment, one of my biggest achievement in life … and most importantly, I learn to walk during this 18 days unforgettable circuit! Hahaha…
There are many things that I learn from these mountains… One of it, is learning to trust nature as you trust your parent when you’re growing up. Nature would not do any harm to you as your parent never do. Accepting that you’re part of the nature itself, and becoming one with nature by respecting it the way it is, and keeping its balance as you live in harmony side by side with nature.
Our flight got delayed
for a few hours due to the strong wind… and finally arrived midday… I was so sad to say goodbye to my beautiful mountains, but we had to leave and back to what so called civilization as a grow up kids having to face the real world! But I’ve found my civilization here, in this isolated mountain of Annapurna range where I have spent my last 18 days in the circuit.
We arrived in Pokhara after about 20 minutes flying, happy to be home again!
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Ariffian
non-member comment
In your footsteps
Interesting post, really! I am planning a trip myself to Annapurnas with a sidetrek to Tilicho lake myself in March 2013. Wasn't sure whether it was possible in my limited time but your blog post certainly helped me out. Will be trekking in your footsteps next year. Wish me luck. Cheers from Singapore.