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Published: August 7th 2008
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Livingston
sunset our last night in Livingston Livingston
We caught a 9am water taxi from Rio Dulce yesterday morning for the hour or so ride down river to Livingston. Our ride took a bit longer because one passenger (fortunately) expressed concern about the boat we were taking. There were 20+ of us and all our luggage on a boat floating 4 inches or so out of the water and passengers on the sides were quickly soaked with spray. When we stopped at the ticket booth (one-way tix are $18us each) the passenger refused to get back on until we got a bigger boat. Perhaps one with life jackets? His demands were met, our new captain had a mesh tank top (
awesome!) paired with a jungle animal tooth necklace (
sooo rugged), and we were on our way. Besides the seaworthiness upgrade, the new boat was much more comfortable too!
Our ride downstream through the jungle was gourgeous, beautiful, and breathtaking. For the first 1/2 hour of the ride we passed a number of luxery boats and homes of wealthy Guatemalans but as we continued down river the dwellings became huts and the much poorer areas. It was all very pretty and very much in the heart of the
jungle.
Livingston is Guatemala's main coastal city on the Caribbean side. It is on an island but we never actually saw the water separating it from the mainland. However, just by stepping foot in the town you can tell it is an island because of the slow, relaxed culture. It is also much different than the rest of Guatemala because most of the local citizens are of black Caribbean descent rather than Hispanic, as we have seen for the past three weeks. We had heard Livingston characterized as the Vegas of Guatemala and expected a hectic social scene and a lot of Bob Marley. We're finishing our second day here and have yet to hear any reggae and the town is surprisingly mellow. Likely because it is so very hot.
hot, hot, hot! We stayed our first night at the Casa de la Iguana Hostel. It is run by Rusty, a really nice guy who used to be a manager at the Iguana at Lake Atitlan. We had a cabana with private bath (only $17/night) and there was a wonderful family-style dinner for only $4.50, with great BBQ chicken and mashed potatoes the night we were there as
Livingston
The street the Iguana Hostel and the Delfin was on. well as a 6-8pm happy hour (which actually lasted closer to 845). Perhaps the best part, but definitely the most interesting, was their pet raccoon. Some called him "
Crusty", others called him "
Loco". He was actually kind of a hybrid between the two names. Unfortunately we didn't get any pictures of the little guy but he was only a week old when they adopted him and 4 weeks old when we met him - very cute little fuzz ball. He played like a kitten and had an affinity for ear lobes and pony tails, especially climbing up your leg to get to them. The staff had set up a towell as a hammock that he slept in, too. At the end of the day he is still a raccoon so he might not be around much longer if he doesn't get fully tamed but was a treat to see while we were there.
The Iguana is definitely budget accomodations; our shower was a trickle at best and we needed our mosquito net for the first time. Rusty is great and the woman who worked in the mornings was very nice and helpful too (the two guys who worked evenings left
Livingston
The beach on the north side of town for Honduras our second day so they probably have new staff by now... or are hiring if you're interested).
We had planned to only stay in Livingston for a day but the boat to Belize (Punta Gorda) only leaves town on Tuesdays and Fridays so we are staying a second night and will catch the Tuesday water taxi. There are boats that leave daily from Puerto Barrios across the Rio Dulce in GUA but, hey -
we're on the Caribbean, basking in the sun, so who's in any rush??? Because it has been so hot in Livingston we decided to switch hotels to one with a pool (the water surrounding Livingston is contaminated with the exception of one beach that you have to take a tour or hook up with a local to get directions for). We moved a block or so closer to the marine terminal and stayed at
Posada el Delfin. It was a really nice place with a dock that had hammocks and a nice breeze, a cleanish pool and a very clean and good sized room ($29us/night). And A/C!!!
We went to the recommended Tolingo Lingo restaurant twice since we got here. The owner, Maria,
Livingston
Looking down the hill toward the dock. is friendly and quite eccentric. Most importantly, she's a very good cook. When we asked how she ended up here she, among other things, said she had lived in Mexico, India, and New York. As a result, the menu is a mix of pizzas, hispanic food, and excellent curries. We ended the day in the pool and on the dock at el Delfin and couldn't ask for much more!
Livingston is not the crazy place we expected it to be, we still think 2-3 days here is plenty, but with the good food available in town and a place that has a dock/pool, you certainly ought to enjoy yourself.
This afternoon we went to immigration to get passports stamped ($10us and you have to do it the day before if you are catching the 7am boat) and we bought tickets on the water taxi to Punta Gorda, Belize ($25 each, only leaving Livingston Tue & Fri at 7am).
We're very sad to leave Guatemala after all the fun we've had here but we also are looking forward to our upcoming experiences in Belize!
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Ryan
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The new summer fashions in Livingston
Mesh tank-top and animal necklace....and no picture? Please tell me he had a moustache and some short-shorts.....