We're now in sleepy Livingstone, home to the Garifuna commmunity, the only Black-Caribbean inhabitants of Guatemala. They qre descendents of runaway slaves who mixed with indigenous peoples in the Caribbean. In the eighteenth century they were then forcibly moved to Roatan, off Honduras, by the British, before fanning out over the next two hundred years to the coasts of Honduras, Guatemala and Belize. Complicated. Livingstone is pretty chilled and perhaps a little shabby but I do rather like it, it's at the mouth of a large river, only accesible by boat and you can watch pelicans hunting from the hammocks in our little hostel's garden. We have just come from an island just next to Roatan, Utila, home to more Garifuna but also a more recent colonist- lunatics. To put it in context, Utila is a
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