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Published: February 10th 2008
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Oasis in Marrakesh
La Sultana: the most unique and charming hotel I've ever set foot into. On February 3rd Dad and I flew the entire width of North Africa departing from Cairo and touching down in Casablanca, Morocco. To say that Morocco is an upgrade from Egypt would be a gross understatement. Smoothly paved highways led us from the airport into the heart of Casa and further onward to the doorstep of our hotel. From our window we could see the Atlantic Ocean and the unbelievably beautiful King Hassan II Mosque that towers over the city skyline. It’s the 3rd largest mosque in the world and given that it was in 1993, the detail and artistry of the tilework and architecture is fresh, clean, and really quite amazing.
Two days later we boarded what was once famously referred to as the Marrakesh Express, the 3-hour train journey from Casablanca to our next destination, the culture heart of Morocco. I had heard so many great things about Marrakesh that I knew I would love it even before arriving. With the stunning Atlas Mountains in the backdrop and the homogenously constructed buildings within the walls of the ancient medina (old city/fort type thing), you’re instantly struck by the charm of the place. The medina was built long before
cars (12th century) were around so donkey-pulled wooden carts and bicycles are still the norm. The famous Marrakesh souq’s (shopping bazaars) are filled with just about the most beautiful arts and crafts I’ve ever come across. I was so totally overwhelmed with the amount of amazing jewelry, furniture, lamps, traditional textiles, leather slippers, etc. that I just threw in the towel, picked up some gifts for loved ones and spent the rest of the time making my way through the giant maze of the souqs. I saw everything from delicious Moroccan pastries, blacksmiths hard at work, severed sheep heads, cages of chameleons, massive varieties of dried fruit, immaculately painted pottery, carpenters building tables by hands, gorgeous traditional Moroccan clothing, and wiry salesmen trying desperately to lure you into their shops. At times it was too overwhelming but I still found my curiosity invariably drawing me back inside in hopes of discovery more hidden treasures. You could probably spend a good ten days wandering through the place and still end up getting lost within 5 minutes of entering.
At night the giant outside food square/market of Djeema el-Fna opens up to serve delicious Moroccan fare at dirt-cheap prices. Surrounding the
The Djemma el-Fna
The vibrant night market is alive and cooking with all the best culinary delights Morocco has to offer. open square are dozens of rooftop restaurants with delightfully charming atmospheres but lack the general buzz and excitement of sitting in the market with locals and tourists alike. Dad and I ended up doing both, eating on the street and in the much nicer establishments, both equally fun in their own right. Regardless of where one eats in Morocco, you’re sure not to be disappointed. The food is exquisite and the French-inspired domestic wine industry churns out some great wines sold at Moroccan prices. Dad and I had a great time exploring the various nooks and crannies of funky Marrakesh and both unanimously decided that we would someday return.
The icing on the cake was that I managed to find this beautiful little boutique hotel hidden within the walls of the medina. Tucked away in a quite corner we could instantly escape the buzz of Marrakesh life that exists in every direction. It had beautiful courtyards, fountains, tile-work, and every other fine detail that makes the La Sultana, Marrakesh the most beautiful and unique hotel I have ever set foot in.
All in all our time in Morocco was more of about hanging out than sightseeing. The French
Marrakesh Night Market
Delightful dried fruits on offer. unquestionable left their mark on Morocco with trendy rotisseries, brasseries, patisseries, and art boutiques practically everywhere you look. Moroccan Arabic is the official language but nearly everyone speaks to one another in French, which has the ability to add a tinge of difficulty in the whole getting around/asking for directions game. The scene is so inviting that you feel compelled to just chill-out, sip on espresso and watch the world go by. There’s something uniquely attractive about life here in Morocco, something very fascinating about its cultural vibe. It’s hard to find the right words….perhaps it’s the pseudo Western/European-style of cultural sophistication that cloaks its cities in a faÁade of First World modernity. Underneath there’s a rich, vibrant, traditional life-line that bridges its North African, Muslim roots with the 21st century. Everything I’ve experienced here feels like a blend of distinctly different cultures that somehow form this harmonic union that is uniquely Moroccan on some many levels. It’s experiencing places like Morocco that really make traveling such a great pleasure. With my constantly enticed imagination and limitless curiosity…it’s no reason I fell in love with this country so quickly. I wonder if that had anything to do with the sigh
La Sultana Courtyard
Wide-angle shot of the traditional Moroccan riad style building. of relief one lets out after leaving Egypt? Well…either way I look at it, Morocco is near the top list of my favorite countries in the world. I sincerely hope that anyone who reads this blog gets the chance to visit this most excellent nation.
Tomorrow Dad and I are often to the dreary weather London (major downgrade from Marrakesh) to rendezvous with another member of our family. After 14 months, 2 weeks, and 2 days of near-continuous travel, I finally get to see my mom.
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Shana
non-member comment
Charming for sure! La Sultana looks beautiful :-) Well, they are definitely finicky about giving out visas, and the phone networks are dodgy.. but your experience sounds so good that I have to see the place!! Can't wait to be there!