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Published: November 24th 2007
GOA 07
tim playing with shells !!We arrived into Madagoen station later than expected because of the delay in Mumbai but rested and reasonably fresh! We were the last stop so the platform was not very busy and we set off to get a taxi to palolem which is 40kms away from the station. Bargaining finished we jumped into a jeep and set off.
We had booked to stay at the south end of the beach in a place called La Raja little village. We were met by Wilson who Tim had booked with and shown to our shack. As soon as we saw it we instantly loved it then we caught site of the beach and it really was like arriving in heaven. mumbai was worth it to get us here !!
The shack is on two levels, built out of plywood, bamboo and woved wooden mats. There is a large lino living space downstairs with a curtained off area which seperates the shower and toilet on a raised tiled platform. The steep wooden stairs lead to a landing area above the shower area (well a piece of plywood more than a true landing!) where the bedroom is located complete with double bed and
mozzy net. Past the bed is a small straw door which leads out onto our little balcony. This was serious Swiss family robinson and we were really pleased with it. six quid a night - you really can't go wrong !!!!
As expected after a long hot journey we ditched the clothes, slung on beach wear and headed for a refreshing beer !!! The shacks are built around a bar/restaurant called the big fish and the guys hear immediately made us welcome. Most are nepalese but one guy told us he was from Delhi which sparked off plenty of conversation as we are going to both places after Goa.
We settled in really easily but it was not long into the early evening that we both enjoyed our first Goan meal and headed off for a good nights sleep in a proper bed !! Heaven. We had been offered blankets for our bed which we had humourously declined earlier - what a stupid thing to do as the nights are surprisingly cold and we were freezing gone midnight. We ended up wrapping ourselves in our travel sleeping bags (made of silk not much warmth) and our fleeces!!!!. We
our train
madgoan station slept reasonably well even though the cold almost got the better of us at one point.
We spent the next few days just crashed on the beach outside our homely shack. Goa is very very relaxing. The beach at our end is a little corally and can be sharp but it is still really nice. The sea is slightly salty but not over powering it can be quite rough at times so we have enjoyed a bit of wave jumping (like when you were kids)!!!
The food in exceptional and should be given a try at every opportunity. We stuck to chicken for the first few days as we were both concerned about getting a bad stomach but as you realise that the restaurants are very clean here we did start to get a little more adventurous with our choices. Unfortunately on the day we were planning to have the seafood for dinner we ran into a group of english guys from another resort who told us that they had eaten crab and had been really ill. Bad enough to have to get the doctor out which put us off completely even though I am sure it is
palolem beach
the beach outside our little house safe it is always a risk and one we have been unwilling to take. I think alot of people are like this here which is a shame for the local restaurants as seafood is their biggest expense and I think alot does go uneaten. All of the bars assure you that the seafood is freshly caught that day! The curries here taste wonderful, there is much less of a concern in the heat of the curry more emphaisis is on the flavour which is really good. We have decided that we must be the most anti social people here as we are living on byrianis etc.. with garlic naans!!!
On about the fourth day we ventured off further down the beach just to laze somewhere different for the day. We had just settled down on our beds when the bar server came over and asked us if we would mind moving inside the restaurant for 15 minutes as they needed to take the sunbeds in. We sat there looking at each other and he seemed to become a little more flustered, he went on to explain that the bar did not have a licence for them and they had
Breakfast
Bad hair but great scenery received a tip off that the local government were on the way to do a spot check. We moved immediately and went and sat in the chairs outside the bar, the guys were so apologetic. It was then that we realised this was not just our bar it was every bar on the beach. We have never seen anything like the next 10 minutes of people frantically moving sunbeds and brollies etc.... out the back of their establishments. Then we saw the group of government men heading down the beach around 15 in all and it was a little intimidating. The bar where we were sat had two wooden pole tables bulit in the sand which we were sat at. The men insisted they and the chairs were removed as they were in front of the construction line. The guys set about moving them which for their build is ridiculous they just couldnt get them out of the ground. In the end Tim helped with one (very proud) and a couple of Finish guys did the other. The men passed and continued down the beach. Everyone had got their beds in so that was at least a bonus. 10 minutes
scaling the rock
Tim being Mr Adventurer !! later the men walked back and decided they did not like the little picket fence the bar had put in front of the wall. Apparently that too was in front of the construction line so they did no more that hacked it down with a large knife and carried on walking. The owner of the bar is now talking very loud and brandishing his arms obviously protesting but the men did not listen and continued until they had broken it into little pieces. We later discovered that the sunbed licence has been increased this season form 6000 rupees to 15,000 rupees and the bars just cannot afford them. So everyone is risking being fined/confiscated having them out anyway. The bazaar thing about this is that the bars do not charge for the beds they just hope you will buy drinks during the day. It seems silly but the locals seem to accept the situation with minor fuss.
Back handers are everywhere, once you start talking to the locals it is evident that rules are bent on a massive scale if the price is right. The local children who sell on the beach have to pay a 'tax' to the
Local children
Tight rope walking by the local kids so called police every day of 100 rupees. The poor things dont sell alot at this time of the year as it is still considered early season until December and the beach is relatively quiet. One of the girls we got to know sat talking to us one day and we are sure that it is just some middle man threatening them to make some money. They do not question they just pay but it was a sad scene all the same. The selling on the beach is not too bad some days have been worse than others. Some of the kids can whine a little telling you they have had no sales but I have tried to buy from various sellers for what we have needed and it has been okay. The kids that come over and do the tight rope walking are very good and it is fun to watch them dig their holes and set their ropes. They perform their show and the girls comes round with her bowl. Then they pack up and move 10 metres down the beach and do it all again. It is exhausting to watch!!
Their is little begging goes on
Tight rope walking
The kids are amazing at this here but I have to say there is only so long I stayed hardened off to it. I had very strongly said know to a old lady with a young boy one day. I had just enjoyed lunch and was listening to my ipod at the time. They turned away from me and at that point I caught the little boys eye and I hated myself. He looked so sad. I watched them carry on down the next set of sunbeds and everyone did the same as me. The woman standing momentarily longer each time hoping minds might be changed. I felt that bad that I took a few coins and as they set back along the sea front I walked down and gave it to them. The little boy smiled and I felt less like a heartless cow. I know you cant give to everyone and I am the first to agree that the poverty problem here does not lie with the tourists but I think eventually everyone has their 'moment' In the end I started saving breads and etc that we hadnt eaten and giving them to the kids. Better than money we thought and at least you
Sunset
View from The Big Fish know they are gaining something from it rather than handing it to someone else.
A few days ago we ventured further afield to the next south beach called Patnam, we had heard it was quiter then palolem and was more scenic. Which was right it was so quiet with very few people - no sunbeds etc... just sand. We went to the far end of the beach we had no-one around and set up camp. later in the day when the tide had gone a little way out we walked through the rocks into the next bay and was completely blown away by the beach. As you will see from the pictures it was deserted and unbelievably beautiful. We went back yesterday (our last full day) where I got very burnt (no shade to hide in) and spent all night feeling like my skin was on fire. Silly really as we had been very sensible up until then. My factor 30 was out of it's depth yesterday!!
Tim is full of cold and I think I have it on the way. Only we could end up with a cold in India but we think it may be the
cold nights in comparison to the very hot days!!
We leave Palolem at 3.30pm today for Madgoan station. Where we have a night train (leaving at 6pm hopefully) back to Mumbai CST. All hail the joy of being back there!!!!! From here we leave tomorrow night for Jaipur in Northern India. Bring on the mad big cities!!!!!!
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Suz & Sime
non-member comment
Wow!
Were dead envious of your trip anyway, but now we're really pig sick! Haven't even read your blog yet but just want to be there!! What a wonderful looking place.