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Published: October 22nd 2007
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Before we get on to our day trip riding down "The World's Most Dangerous Road" (let's call it WMDR) a little tale about our first day in La Paz.
Having not had his greying locks trimmed for over seven weeks, Jez decided that a capital city would be a good place to visit the barber. We found "Gustavo's Barbershop" in a little shopping centre on El Prado, the main road through the heart of La Paz.
As we entered, Gustavo's female assistant welcomed us and Gustavo himself put down his acoustic guitar that he was strumming away at. Guitar and clippers - a multi-talented chap indeed!
As he spoke no English and we speak very little Spanish we tried our hardest to stress that Jez didn't want a scalping, just a trim. Bridget had a good idea - ask for some pictures so we could point at what we wanted. This prompted Gustavo (who physically resembled a cross between Freds Dibnah and West) to bring out two posters, each featuring about 40 beautifully coiffeured gentlemen. The problem was that it was like looking at a "Smash Hits" poster from 1985. We´re sure at least half of Duran Duran
were on there, as well as a couple of the guys from A-Ha.
With some trepidation Jez sat in the chair and waited for the chopping to begin, as Gustavo took out his scissors, hairdryer, and a large can of hairspray. It took only 10 minutes for Bolivia's answer to Matthew Kelly to transform Jez,
Stars In Their Eyes-like, into Tony Hadley of Spandau Ballet. Unfortunately there is no photographic evidence of this sorry sight, but Bridget had a good laugh for half an hour as we walked back to the hostel.
The next day, Friday, we embarked on our day trip to Coroico, a small town 69km from La Paz. In 1995 the road was declared "The World's Most Dangerous Road" by someone or other, because at the time around 200 to 300 people died on it each year. The main reasons for this are:
- It is single lane, only three metres wide in some parts.
- It is made of loose gravel and stones and dust (which turns to slimy mud in the rainy season).
- It is the only road in Bolivia where you drive on the left.
- For most of
"Iron Man" Jez zooming through a natural hazard.
At about 3 mph, truth be told.
Photo taken by Bridget from the comfort of the support bus. it's length there is a sheer drop down the cliff-face, of up to 400 metres in height.
- It was the only road from La Paz to Corioco, so was used by drunken truck drivers, buses, cars, and cyclists.
- Many of the corners are blind.
- The amazingly beautiful scenery probably kept a few people's eyes off the road!
However, a brand new fully sealed road was completed in 2006 (more of which later), so the only people who now use the old road are tourists on mountain bikes. Therefore it can be said that although it
was a dangerous road, it is now pretty safe (assuming you manage to keep your bike on the brown stuff!). (
Bridget disagrees with that statement whole-heartedly by the way!)
The first few miles (from 4700 metres altitude) were on part of the new road, so were pretty easy for everyone. We had stunning views across the mountains to snow-capped peaks in the distance. The air was thin, but crisp and fresh. After passing through a drugs check-point (Bridget managed to flush her stash down the loo just in time!) we soon got on to the gravelly section that signalled
Parking.
In La Paz city centre, parking is such a problem that you´re only allowed to park next to a tree painted the same colour as your car. the start of the WMDR.
Jez's experience... after getting used to the bike vibrating around I sort of got used to the rough stuff and found it really good fun. Although some people seemed to be aching to be in first place, I took it easy and enjoyed the amazing scenery. Riding through waterfalls and round hairpin bends was really enjoyable, and of course I always kept a safe distance from the edge (mum).
Bridget's experience... not being a very confident cyclist, I did not get used to the bike vibrating around on the rough stuff and was not finding it really good fun - quite frightening actually! I continued for a couple of hours on the gravel road but was going so slowly for fear of dropping off the side that I decided to board the support bus and enjoy the scenery.
After a free "beer" (some home-brew stuff) and a hot shower at the bottom of the ride (we'd descended 3000 metres to 1700 metres above sea level) we got back into our minibus for the journey back to La Paz, on the new, safe, sealed road. If the ride down was on "The
World's Most Dangerous Road", the journey back up was "The World's Most Scariest Bus Ride", through thick fog in the dark with huge trucks coming the other way round tight blind bends. Everyone on the bus was in deadly silence as we rounded each corner, willing us back home safely. We were both very relieved to get back to our hostel and flop onto the bed.
Today (Sunday) we took a city tour atop an open double-decker bus. La Paz is much more modern than we thought it would be. With many glass-fronted high-rise office blocks and modern apartments. We stopped for a while at The Valley Of the Moon, a strange but beautiful landscape of stalagtites (or stalagmites possibly!).
Bye for now!
Love from Bridge and Jez
xxxx
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Dawn
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Still loving the updates and humour!! Michael Palin has nothing on your updates!