Riding the Trans-siberian Highway

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Arriving in Irkutsk at 4am Moscow time (9am local time) it was just 7 degrees. It seemed a small miracle that we and our bikes had made it 5000km without even one revolution of the pedals! I instantly had the feeling I was in Asia, a feeling that was further confirmed once we re-loaded the bikes and headed up the hill into the general chaos of the traffic and past a local flea market, where second hand goods were spread on the roadside.
And finally after a couple of days relaxing in Irkutsk and catching up with Angie and Pete, and with Mongolian visas in our passport, it was time to get back in the saddle for some proper touring.
It really felt as if the adventure was just beginning. This was the part of the trip we had anticipated all along, wondering as we anticipated it if we would actually go through with it.
yes I actually got so excited by this that for a few days I kept a daily diary!

Sept 12
Leaving Irkutsk it immediately felt that we had made the right decision. Once about 20 km from the city, the traffic volume decreased dramatically and the vehicles on the road gave us plenty of room. The autumn colours of the surrounding birch forest made a beautiful back drop to the hills. After 2 weeks out of the saddle, the hills did prove quite a challenge. We spent the first night camping at about 850 metres. In our first nights free camp, we saw what we thought was a chipmunk (do they have them in Russia?) a small woodpecker, and some other unusual looking birds.

Sept 13
Beautiful weather, but we are still struggling to get out of bed in the morning with the 5 hour time difference (well that’s our excuse!) The hills went crazy on us today, up,up,up and then down,down, down, then up,up,up,up, to see the buddist prayer flags (more like rags) on the hilltop then down,down, etc until we finally cleared the last summit and made a swooping descent past the fish sellers and berry sellers to Lake Baikal, the largest freshwater lake in the world.
We are beeped at frequently as we cycle along, and it’s interesting how much can be communicated by a beep - some beeps cheer us on and celebrate with us at the top of ascents, others inform you they are planning to pass, others seem to be telling you to get off the road, you have no right to be there!
Tonight we camped with a beautiful view of the lake and the train line.

Sept 14
It is an amazing feeling to be riding the Trans-siberian highway. The main traffic we are encountering consists of Japanese import cars (right hand drive) being driven from Vladivostok to Moscow to sell. They travel in convoys, with the windscreen taped over, to avoid stone chips.
Today we met Alex, just outside Baikalask. Alex is a cyclist with a dream to circumnavigate Lake Baikal by bike. It’s more than 1000km, and only about 300km appears to have an asphalt surface on our map so it would be quite a feat. Alex wasn’t working due to it being the anniversary day of the town, so he rode with us, taking us to a restaurant, and helping to translate what was on the menu. He then accompanied us to the supermarket ( the last one apparently before Ulan Ude - for the next 300km there will only be small Magazins (grocery stores)) so we stocked up as much as possible. He took us to his family home for tea and cake, and gave us a set of souvenir postcards of Baikalask (interestingly, one is of the power station - a very industrial scene). Alex explained that he met German cyclists riding a tandem just last week, doing the same route, making us wonder how many cyclists have passed this way this year. So far it is a stunning route, there are mountains to our right, and the rolling hills we are riding through at the south of Lake Baikal give views out over the lake. Every now and then a train passes us on its long journey. This part of the trans-siberian was only completed in 1955, and prior to that the train carriages used to be transported across Lake Baikal by ferry before being reloaded on the other side - it must have been a highlight of the trip, but perhaps very time consuming. Finally Alex helped us to locate a good camping spot next to one of the clear mountain rivers that flows into Baikal, and as he sped down the steep and rocky path, his chain snapped! Fortunately his resourcefulness combined with our tools meant that he was soon back on the road. Meeting Alex was an amazing piece of luck. He was genuinely interested to meet us and learn our story, and through his time and generosity we had a real insight into the nature of Russian people.

Sept 15
We awoke to grey skies which stayed with us all day. The road was desolately beautiful with small wooden villages, full of character, but neglected in appearance. The hope of a restaurant lunch kept us going, but the hoped for restaurant in Tanoy, turned out just to be a small grocery store. We shivered on the platform as we ate from our own supplies, while a few drunken looking people lingered around the platform. The place seemed very down and out. We camped early a few kilometres further up the road and cooked dinner just in time before the rain started.

Sept 16
It rained steadily all night. We felt miserable and cold and the terrible weather did not inspire us to continue our ride. We dragged ourselves up and out and put on every waterproof piece of equipment we owned before heading into the rain.
The rain came steadily down, finding its way through the supposedly waterproof clothing, while passing traffic splashed us with muddy water. After 35km, a restaurant appeared as an oasis on the side of the road and we stopped gratefully. We felt sorry for the roadside sellers who were persevering in spite of the weather, they had their goods covered over with plastic sheets, and were dressed in sensible vinyl raincoats which actually seem more waterproof then these so called breathable sporty ones.
A man at the restaurant recognised us and indicated he had overtaken us, we were making quite an impression today as the mad cyclists. Another man who spoke English helped us to order some food and advised us we could find accommodation a further 10km up the road.
And so we did - at 45km in Babuskin we made an enquiry at the café, and a man led us in his car to the local pension. The lady who owns the place was called and came as quickly as she was able, she busied herself fussing over us with cups of tea and making the beds. The accommodation is spacious and is like a small self contained flat so we have booked in for 2 nights.

Sept 17
We rested today in Babuskin and mainly stayed indoors keeping warm and doing domestic things such as drying out all the wet clothing and tent, doing our washing, cooking big meals on the stove. Actually we used the electric oven as our clothes dryer as well, and it was very effective! The weather has definitely turned colder, when I did venture out I wrapped up warm. Babuskin is a small village and had a little town centre with small shops and holes in the wall selling various items as well as little market stalls with local produce. It was nice to buy veges knowing that they had all been home-grown. Also I got some fresh cheese, sort of like cottage cheese, and some honey off the market stalls and fresh bread and cakes out of a hole in the wall. They don’t really do window displays in Russia, the shops have a little writing outside which of course is incomprehensible to me, and look as if they are closed (they could do with some improvement in their marketing strategy!) so I had to enter a few shops before I actually found the grocery store. No doubt everyone wondered what the foreigner was doing in the wallpaper shop! But I think word will be out in town that foreigners are staying, it’s a small place, and everyone seems to know each other.

Sept 18
Back on the road today, there is still a definite chill in the air but the sunshine is back. Our babushka came to say goodbye and blessed us. We had a beautiful view of the lake and mountains and noticed that the mountains now have snow on top - maybe the first dump of the season.
The beautiful autumn colours continue and the colourful wooden houses look very inviting in the sunshine. An older lady walking up the hill using a birch branch as a stick stopped for a chat. She pointed at the map and seemed to be giving us all kinds of tips about what lay ahead, unfortunately we did not understand a word of it. We gave her a bag of electrical items which we no longer required and she seemed very pleased. It included a 3m extension lead and a energy saving light bulb and connection. A bit of a random gift but it has shaved 1kg off Nigel’s load and many of the people here seem to have so little, that I think if she cannot use it, she will be able to either sell it or give it to someone who does need it.
We see so many people selling the little sour red berries they have collected by the bucket load from the forest, waiting patiently by the roadside hoping for customers. Some are mothers with small children. When the berries are out of season who knows how they make an income.
We stopped at a café for a drink and the men there were interested in our bikes and journey. They referred to us as ‘ extreme’ sports people and then indicated we were crazy! Well, I am anything but an extreme sportsperson, but I guess all is relative and I must seem it to some!
In the afternoon the road flattened out as we entered the Selenga delta region, and we were able to make up some of the kilometres we had lost on the rainy day. So Ulan Ude is now less than 80km away, and hopefully we can make it there tomorrow.

Sept 19

We made it to Ulan Ude! A beautiful ride along the Selenga valley. A beaten up Lada tooted and pulled up in front of us, the man jumped out and vigorously shook Nigel’s hand - it turned out he was the same man who had guided us to the guest house in Babuskin.

Trip notes.


Sept 9 day 146
Irkutsk 8km to hostel
Grotty twin room - fold out couch with sheets made out of tea towels (slight exaggeration) and warning and instruction signs on every surface such as penalty for using washing machine 5000 and one that looked like it had been there at least a year saying the sink is broken.
1300 - booked on-line and recommended by lonely planet.
Internet 20
Visa Registration 600
Supermarket 500

Total = 2420
Euro = 68

Sept 10 day 147
Same place but in dorm beds 490
Map 60
Internet 60
Restaurants 1000
Mongolian Visa 3300

Total = 5400
Euro = 151.20


Sept 11 day 148
Still same place in dorm beds - only ones in hostel 490
Minibus to lake and public transport 208
Restaurant 460
Socks 40
Other food 80
Methylated spirits (gel) 100
Thermos flask 200

Total = 2068
Euro = 58



Sept 12 day 149
Irkutsk to … 62 km following M55 (not a motorway) Most cars on the road are Japanese imports (they don’t use car carriers) on way from Vladivostok to Moscow in small convoys, 9000 extra km on the clock (the first 1000 is unsealed) and thrashed to hell.
Free camp in forest 825 mtrs above sea level. Saw our first chipmunk, stripes running down its back. Nice ride climbing to 900 mtrs. Road was not not too busy once we got 20k out of Irkustk and very scenic with autumn colours.
Food 30
Euro = .85

Sept 13 day 150
62 KM from Irkutsk to just past Sludenka 55Km -free camp with view of Baikal and trans-siberian railway
400 Food
Euro = 11.20

Sept 14 day 151
(Five months, 6520 km, 7263.17 euro, 48 euro per day, approx £34)


55 km further along M55 10km past Baikalask
350 restaurant
350 supermarket

Total = 700 Rb
Euro = 19.60
Total euro this month = 1463.90 (approx 47 euro per day)
Alex a cyclist, met us on the outskirts of Baikalask and spent the afternoon with us. He explained that he had met German cycle tourists on a tandem one week ago following the same route as us and gave us their website details. He took us to a restaurant and helped us to order dishes without meat (partially successful), then helped at the supermarket, before taking us to his parents home for tea, cake and strawberries. We were given a set of souvenir photos as well as a photo Alex had taken of the mountains and some homemade preserved fruit. He then cycled with us and helped us find a good campsite by one of the many large rivers that run into lake baikal.

Sept 15 day 152
71km further along M55 (at about km 234 of this road)
Free camp in forest next to road.
Food 38 Rb
Euro = 1

Sept 16 day 153
Heavy rain set in overnight
45km further along M55 (km 279) stopped at Babuskin - stayed in guest house/self contained flat 640 RB
Restaurant 300 RB

Total = 940 RB
Euro = 26.30

Sept 17 Rest day Babuskin day 154
Guesthouse 640 RB
Food and drink 300 RB
Total = 940 RB
Euro = 26.30

Sept 18 day 155 Babuskin to km (370) on M55 a few km past Selenjis
Free camp on uncultivated field
Food and drink 220 RB

Total = 6.2 euro

Sept 19 day 156 Km 370 to Ulan Ude (88km)
Hotel Buryatia - 1400 Rb
Food and drink 350 Rb

Total = 1750 Rb
Euro = 49

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Comments

[Fabian]

Awesome
Hey guys this is awesome! great to how far your having to go on your bikes! You better be riding every single km heheheh. Hope its all going well for you. So when are you riding to New Zealand!?