Sneaking past the police at 5 AM

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Tiger Leaping Gorge was closed to the public. A hiker got caught in a mudslide and was killed. The rains have made the gorge a dangerous place to trek. It is not the first time someone has died on the trail either. Mudslides and falling rocks during the rainy season have claimed a handful of lives in the past several years. I was repeatedly warned not to hike the gorge. Once in Lijiang by the person who ran a tour company; once on the bus to the gorge by a lady who ran a cafe at the start of the gorge; and once more by the police who grabbed me by the arm as I tried to walk into the gorge. I do value my own life. I am not crazy. The best I can explain it is that life is an exercise in risk management. You take a look at what you are about to do, think about the risks associated and decide whether or not you are willing to take on those risk. Taking on no risk whatsoever would mean a pretty boring life. Taking on too much is asking for trouble.

With that said, the gorge was much less dangerous than it was made out to be. The lower road was obviously dangerous with falling rocks and unpredictable mudslides. Taxi drivers refused to take passengers along it. The high road however, is perched above the gorge, and felt perfectly safe. Aside from slipping and falling once or twice, getting chased by a dog, getting lost, and the distant sound of dynamite blasting by the government to make the gorge safe, nothing bad really happened. Yup, it was safe.

To get past the police. I woke up at 5 AM in the morning. Packed some provisions for the trek and left the rest of my meager belongings at the hostel. Under the cover of darkness, I began my trek. Hiking in the dark with a tiny LED flashlight is scary. I was not too sure where the trail was, the map that I had was little more than a photocopy of a hand drawing. Turned out later that I completely went off trail. I did not want to get caught by the police either, especially after I had told them the previous day that I had no intention of hiking the gorge. I wonder what they would have done to me if caught. People in Yunnan really like raising dogs, almost every household had one. While most households are very good about keeping their dogs tied up, some do not tie up their smaller dogs. Probably figuring that most people can outrun one if needed. Well, they are right. Bastards! I eventually got very lost and ended up paying one of the locals to show me the way. For anyone who plan to hike the gorge, be aware that the trails are nothing more that small shoulder-width foot paths. Very easily overlooked unless one was standing right on top of it.

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Photos

Chateau de Woody
Three hours to the next guest house. Lol. Where the heck am I? Messages like this were left on rocks though out the gorge.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
The jagged peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain line the other side of the gorge.

The high road
Tiger leaping gorge is the world's deepest river gorge, cut by the Yangtze.

Somewhere along the gorge
Black and brown zebra patterned cliff.

Another Charming Message
Scenic toilet view...hehe

Before sunrise
Hiking in the dark in an unfamiliar land is quite intimidating.

Comments

[Ming]

you crazy mofo. you're the reason why Chinese police are such assholes toward travlers. nice photos, i admire your bravery. I'd probably do the same thing but not withouot a backup plan and a buddy!