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South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco
July 26th 2007
Published: August 5th 2007
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Hot Showers!Hot Showers!
Hot Showers!

Hot water in Cusco - indeed, running water in Cusco - is a rare and precious commodity. Hence, this hostel advertises hot showers as a major draw for tourists. The San Blas Spanish School has running water infrequently. Fortunately, at my house we almost always have running water, but it is rarely hot. In the morning, the water in my shower comes out at about 55 degrees. I think this is a fair guess because the temperature in my bedroom hovers around 60 degrees. If I´m lucky, I get about two minutes of glorious hot, steaming water!
Ah... the combiAh... the combi
Ah... the combi

One of my most favorite and interesting experiences in Cusco has been riding the combi. Combis are tiny microbuses that serve as the city´s public transportation. The combi in this picture, ¨Servicio Rapido,¨ is the name of the combi´s route, not an indication of the speediness of its service. To get to the center of Cusco, I take the ¨Arco Iris¨ combi. The trip costs 60 centimos, less than a quarter. The combi is always jam-packed, and more than once I have had to contort myself inside with my ear nearly pressing against the top of the cab. Two people work the combi - the driver, of course, and the cobrador. The cobrador is the one who makes riding the combi an exciting, if uncomfortable, experience. At the paradero, or bus stop, the cobrador slides open the the side passenger door and, like a carnival barker, shouts out a rapid stream of upcoming paraderos. The first morning I rode the combi, the cobrador was barking at the oncoming passengers a phrase that sounded like, ¨Sway sway sway sway sway sway sway sway!¨ I later learned that he was actually saying, ¨Sube sube sube sube sube sube sube sube!¨ which essentially means ¨Climb aboard!¨ The cobrador also collects fares, dispenses change, and often makes a running leap from the combi to punch a time card for the driver. You´d think that with all the mad intensity the cobrador displays, ¨Servicio Rapido¨ would be an appropriate moniker. Alas, no.
Chicha MoradaChicha Morada
Chicha Morada

Yum. This has become one of my favorite refrescos. Hermalinda, my hostess, makes chicha morada by boiling maiz morado (purple corn) with cinnamon, then adding sugar and lemon juice. There is also a version of chicha morada containing alcohol, but I´ve yet to taste it.
Santa AnaSanta Ana
Santa Ana

Last Sunday, I arrived at the Plaza de Armas to discover a parade honoring Santa Ana. I guess they were celbrating her feast day, July 26th, early, because this week has been the prelude to the Dia de La Patria, Peru´s independence day, July 28th. It seems that every time I pass through the Plaza de Armas, some sort of celebration is taking place.
Brass Band in the Plaza de ArmasBrass Band in the Plaza de Armas
Brass Band in the Plaza de Armas

This brass band was performing the same Sunday as Santa Ana´s procession, but I don´t think it was on behalf of her. This weekend, the Plaza will be swarming with soldiers as they march and celebrate Peru´s independence from Spain.
Snow-capped Andes PeakSnow-capped Andes Peak
Snow-capped Andes Peak

Yes. I really am, by virtue of latitude, living in the tropics. And shivering a lot.


28th July 2007

Bravo!
Hi Chad, I'm really enjoying your travel blog. The photos are great and your writing is informative and witty. Thanks for including me. Your former housemate, Nancy

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