Europe » Greece » North Aegean » Ikaria
October 11th 2021

Published: December 4th 2021

Additional maps: Aegean Sea: North to South

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Mt. Aetheras Summit

Mt. Kerkis, Samos under a cloud on the horizon.

A couple of years ago while tackling Mt. Kerkis on Samos there was an incredible view of Ikaria's long ridge running nearly the entire length of the island. Back in the day Ikaria had a reputation as an isle exile for communists and is still currently known as a "blue zone," i.e., a place where many people live long lives. While I did not run into any conspicuous communists, there were, of course, a couple of hikes that I wanted to do on Ikaria.

The first was hiking from Raches down to Magganitis where I would hopefully catch a boat to Agios Kirykos for a ferry to Samos. Because the local bus schedule is a mystery and hitching is hit or miss, the hike down to Magganitis was actually the only way to guarantee traversing the island from north to south. On the south side of the island, Ag. Kirykos is one of Ikaria's 2 principal ports with Evdilos on the north being the other. Ferries from Athens typically arrive at one of the 2 ports 3-4 times per week, less out of season when I was there in October. I was extremely lucky with the schedule as I could arrive in Evdilos on a Friday, hike down to Magganitis Monday (much

Agios Kyrikos

From Mt. Aetheras. Samos in the distance.

easier to hike down with my full travel backpack than up), catch the local boat to Ag. Kirykos Wednesday and finally a ferry to Samos Friday. Also had to squeeze in a hike to Mt. Aetheras from Ag. Kirykos one of the 2 days there.

Monday morning my host Haris - from the appropriately named Haris Apartments - was nice enough to drive me to Erifi, a farming village high on the Ammoudia Plateau well past Raches. Once the road became impassable, I started to hoof it and took Haris' mobile number so I could text him upon arrival in Magganitis to assuage his concerns about my solo hike. There was a portion of the well maintained trail that had been scoured by a serious landslide but other than that the hike was fairly pedestrian and only took a bit more than 2 hours at a leisurely pace. There was no water on the hike but the 1½ liters that I brought was enough since it was overcast and cool.

Once I arrived in Magganitis the weather forecast for later in the week deteriorated so much that many boats across the entire Aegean were canceled for the Friday

Agios Kirykos and Fourni Islands

From Mt. Aetheras

that I was planning to leave Ikaria for Samos. Fortunately one company added a ferry from Ag. Kirykos to Pythagorio on Samos for Thursday. With that wrench thrown in my plans I was able to weasel out of the second night of my accommodation in Therma (close to Ag. Kirykos) so I could catch that late addition ferry. The only other issue was having only Wednesday afternoon (Magganitis boat arrived ~10:00 a.m.) to tag the islands' high point, Mt. Aetheras. Before dumping my pack and setting out for the hike, I scarfed down an enormous €8 breakfast at Stou Volika in Ag. Kirykos. I then met Nikos at the hotel and profusely thanked him for letting me cancel the 2^nd night because of the new boat schedule. Stuffed from the breakfast I set out for the summit with only a Clif Bar and 1½L of water. Most of the hike was along the roads and there was an old, overgrown shephard's path up to Tsouredes from Lardades which I took as a scratchy short cut. There was one last village to pass via the road then it was all trail and easy off trail to the top of Ikaria at

Down the North Side of Mt. Aetheras

Port of Evdilos - almost centered - and Armenistis way back along the coast.

1037 m ASL where the views were incredible down to both north and south coasts, Samos, and Fourni Islands. Near the summit was a small herd of sheep but I thankfully did not encounter their psychoticly protective sheep dog as I had on previous pasture hikes in Albania, Kosovo and on Samos. On the way down I stuck to the roads in the hopes of catching a lift down to "ios" (as I was told the locals call Ag. Kirykos). No luck but it wasn't long until I was inhaling a couple of chicken souvlaki pitas back in port at BBQ Diagonios, €2.80 each and really good. Overall for the hike I left Therma at 12:00 p.m., hit the summit at 2:42 p.m., left after about a half hour, and was back in Ag. Kirykos ~5:30 p.m.

Ikaria

Unspoiled, low key island best explored with a car. The local boat along the south coast purportedly runs all year but getting info about that or the year-round local bus is very difficult. I was lucky to accomplish as much as I did without a car although Haris did pick me up in Evdilos and took me to the start of the hike

Descending from Mt. Aetheras

On the ridge between the 2 villages is an old shepherd's trail that I took on the way up but skipped on the descent as I thought I could hitch back to Ag. Kirykos... no luck. Mt. Kerkis in the distance.

to Magganitis.

Accommodation and food In Armenistis Haris Apt. ran ~€56 for 3 nights in a nice, quiet studio and Haris picked me up in Evdilos port (free with 3 night minimum stay, also valid for "ios" & airport pickups). Restaurant scene was minimal, many places closed for the season. Mouragio had €8-9 souvlaki plates and €4.50 ½L white wine while nearby Pashalia's moussaka "special" was €7. About a 30 min walk west is Nas... secluded beach, Temple of Artemis ruins, average Theas restaurant possibly with rooms to let.

Magganitis had very limited places to stay and eat. Coming down from the hike the first place I passed, Zacharoula Rooms, was surprisingly full but the amiable Stella cooked me a great €8 breakfast then helped me track down the owner of Ikaria Studios where I reserved 2 nights for €60 which was fine but seemed way overpriced especially compared to staying at Haris'. There was one restaurant down by the dock, Neromylos where a huge Greek salad was €6 (half loaf fresh bread €1 extra) and an uninspiring chicken filet plate with fries was €7.50. Stick with the salad.

Ag. Kirykos was more of a "regular" town.

Samos at Sunset

As seen on the walk to Therma from Ag. Kyrikos, Ikaria. Mt. Kerkis is left peak.

Seemed to be the administrative/transport hub of the island and not reliant on tourists although there were more places to stay and eat both in "ios" and a bit further down the road in Therma than other towns on Ikaria. In Therma, I crashed for one night at Aperanto Galazio for €20. Super place with a shared kitchen for my self-catered brekky. Pretty good market near the BBQ joint. Before departing for Samos, took my last meal back at Stou Volika - yet another gigantic Greek salad for €6.50, bread included.

Transport This year the local boat ran on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday departing Magganitis ~8:40 a.m., arriving in Ag. Kirykos 10:00 a.m. for €3. Leaves the other villages earlier before Magganitis. Reverse trip departs "ios" at 2:00 p.m. Schedule subject to change depending on weather. There is a small ferry between Ag. Kirykos, Fourni Islands, and Karlovassi on Samos 3-4 times per week as well as a Dodecanese Express fast boat from Ag. Kirykos to Fourni, Pythagorio, and further south several times per week which is what I took. My boat left at 4:25 p.m. and arrived Samos at 6:00 p.m. for €16.60 with the easily obtained 20

Ammoudia Plateau

Just me and hundreds of goats

percent discount.

Theoretical bus schedule available online from Amfitriti Travel but I'm not sure how reliable it is.

Samos

My second trip to Samos in as many years served as more of a layover to ride out really bad weather for 2 days before boats resumed. I did try to visit the Tunnel of Eupalinos, an ancient Greek engineering marvel. I walked to the tunnel during one of the dry spells but the full length tour of over 1 km was closed (due to COVID... huh?) and I did not want to shell out €10 for the incomplete, 400 m version.

Accommodation and food I booked 3 nights in Pythagorio at Hotel Mariona for €82.50 with breakfast but when I met owner he informed me that I would stay in an efficiency at Tarsanas Hotel his other hotel with a discounted price of €70 if I paid cash. The place has seen better days but was fine and had a nice balcony overlooking the sea when it wasn't pelting rain.

Plenty of places on the main drag and along the water for typical Greek dishes but many were closed. I stuck with Robinson and Ellinikos €2.50-3 for pitas

Trail Marker

Took me less than 2 hours from here. Trail was in pretty good shape.

while Garlic Grill House plates ran €7-8.

Transport ANEK line runs a very slow ferry 4 times per week down to Kalymnos stopping at several smaller islands in between. The boat I took departed 2:00 p.m. and arrived in Lipsi 6:40 p.m. for €9. Out of season need to buy all ferry tickets at the kiosk on the dock 1 hour before departure. Buses reliably ply all corners of Samos even out of season on a reduced schedule.

Lipsi

I loved little Lipsi, partly the chill vibe and partly the great weather after 2 drenching days on Samos. The hike to the islands' high point at Skafi 277 m ASL was a bit of an adventure because there was no formal trail and I extended the hike over to the cliff bounded church Kimisi Theotokou then back along the coast to town.

Accommodation and food While I was en route on the ANEK boat I reserved 2 nights at Mira Mare studio €52. "Taxi," the terrific host, met me at the port upon arrival even though her place is only a few minutes away on foot. She was also very generous with her home-cooked food. Calypso restaurant had €5.50

Trail Beginning to Magganitis

After crossing the Ammoudia Plateau

Greek salads and other typical dishes. Café du Moulin lamb chops & fries was €10 and only so-so.

Transport SAOS's rocket boat runs Tuesday and Thursday from Lipsi at 5:10 p.m. to Leros arriving at 5:50 p.m. and they were not charging anything for transit this year, same as last. Even though SAOS's Zefyros is based in Lipsi port none of the agents sell SAOS tickets. There are supposedly buses on Lipsi but I never saw nor needed one.

Leros

Another small island that I really enjoyed but especially the hike up Skoumbarda (even though it was on a service road leading to the antenna) for the views and the Italian WWII bunkers dating from the occupation. The imposing castle cut its out of season hours to just 2 days/week, unbeknownst to me until I walked up there and it was closed. Still, great views and pretty cool meandering the alleys and small streets near Agia Marina.

Accommodation and food Reserved 3 nights at Paradiso Studios in Vromolithos for €59. It's isolated out there, a bit of a trek for food, but it was clean and super quiet not withstanding the crazy gaggle of aggressive geese setting down roots.

Magganitis

First sight after descending from Ammoudia Plateau

In Platanos was Yπάρχω - €2 pitas - and To Theïkon bakery across the street. Tis Kakomoiras is up the hill from the studios and down the other side is the village of Panteli where there are many restaurants even out of season.

Transport SAOS's boat departs Ag. Marina 8:45 a.m. for Kalymnos on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Wednesday it goes direct to Myrties, other days Pothia arriving 10:05 a.m. That route is also free but the Leros agent charges a €1 "service fee." There are buses running north-south between Ag. Marina and Xirokampos, occasionally as far north as as Partheni and the airstrip.

Day hike to Skoumbarda All day affair starting from Vromolithos at 8:00 a.m. after a coffee. Just before the center of Lakki I passed the famous La Nostra pizzeria and the adjacent Zaferis pastry shop where I had a quick breakfast of Greece's ubiquitous mpougatsa crema chased with a super strong espresso, only €2 & €1.50. I took the ½L bottled water included with the espresso on the hike.

The rest of the walk towards Xirokampos and the turn-off for the summit was on the road where I was unable to catch a

Magganitis' Very Small Port

lift. No matter as it was short work to the gradually graded spur road. It was super windy which tempered the heat so I made really good time, hitting the summit ~10:15 a.m. Like all island summits the views were amazing and I could easily make out the distant castle on the other end of the island. Most of the bunker entrances were gated but one had been broken open so I took a walk inside. Many signs still there written in Italian.

Back on the main road I caught a lift the last few kms back to Lakki and headed over to the war museum (€3 entrance). Was mostly a jumble of assorted war relics but there were a few interesting video clips recounting the Battle of Leros.

No visit to Leros is complete without a pizza so after the museum I stopped at La Nostra for a huge vegetarian pie and ½L house white, total €15.

Kalymnos

Only spent one night here but easily could have spent more. Stayed in Pothia and took the bus to Chorio for the short hike to Profit Ilias church on the islands' high point. There's a lot of hiking including a

Magganitis

On the small boat to Agios Kyrikos.

round-the-island trail that will have to wait for the next trip.

Accommodation and food Rocked up without a reservation but found a great studio - Mixalaras above Maria Rent a Car who will call the owner to arrange a stay, €20 cash, early check in and late check out totally fine. No shortage of places to eat, most places still open because of the just finished climbing festival. Nearby Love Café had a €6 breakfast special while Stoukas swordfish deal ran €12.

Transport For Profit Ilias I took the 6:50 a.m. bus from the port to Chorio, arriving 7:00 a.m. for €1. I immediately set out for the short hike, reaching the summit at 8:10 a.m. Was back in Chorio with a few minutes to spare for the 9:15 a.m. bus back to the port. The bus was really late, got back to Pothia at 9:50 a.m. That gave me plenty of time to chillax before the Dodecanese Seaways boat departing 2:55 p.m. for Kos, arriving 3:30 p.m. for €10.50 with the discount.

Kos

Didn't love Kos as it was very different than all 5 other islands I visited prior. Six islands in 3 weeks was definitely one island

Therma

Home of my last night on Ikaria and starting point of the hike up Mt. Aetheras.

too many but I had serious ground to make up after 2020's lack of travel.

Accommodation and food Scored a great deal for 3 nights at Kosta Palace for €79 in a huge suite including a very good buffet breakfast. Seemed like all the restaurants served exactly the same menu. Best place and super cheap was Food Stop near KTEL, €6.50 for really good and freshly prepared souvlaki portions. Also good was Restaurant Select, €8.90 swordfish special. Nice spot near the agora and not at all busy but purportedly packed out during high season.

Transport Buses run frequently up and down the island in spoke & hub fashion centered in Kos town. I only needed the bus to Zia for the short hike to Ora Dikaios (846 m ASL) departing at 11:00 a.m., arriving 11:35 a.m. I hit the breezy and cold summit at 12:35 p.m. and was back in Zia at 1:22 p.m. for the 1:30 p.m. bus back to town. Fare each way €2.10. Leaving Kos for Piraeus I took the Blue Star ferry departing 8:35 p.m., arriving the next day at 8:05 a.m. Deck class was €45.50 with the discount (previous voyage necessary to sign

Armenistis

up). Would have preferred to fly as it is often cheaper than the ferry but there was a holiday on October 28 and flights were crazy expensive.

Athens

I hadn't planned on staying in Athens at all on this trip as my original ticket had me flying from Thessaloniki to Ikaria then back to Seattle from Kos. But just before I was supposed to leave the US for Munich (same ticket) the EU had recommended tightening restrictions for Americans owing to the summer increase in COVID cases here. That was too much to worry about so I canceled that entire itinerary and booked 2 separate one way award tickets: Seattle to Split and Athens back to Seattle since Croatia and Greece were basically ignoring EU recommendations.

Accommodation and food First stop in Athens I stayed in Piraeus because I wasn't sure of my plan to get to the islands and wanted to be at the port. Got 2 nights at the very nice Triton Hotel with buffet breakfast for ~€72, extra breakfast was €6 and I took advantage of that deal after the long night bus from Albania. Literal hole-in-the-wall Yorgos served cheap, spicy kebab pitas & plates for €1.90/4.90,

Armenistis

oddly named Meal House prepped huge €5-6 pasta and Greek salads and €6 special plates, Giro-Giro had the best deal for pitas, only €1.70.

After the islands I stayed one night in Athens Hawks hostel a few blocks south of Omonia. Bed in a 10 person dorm was €12.23, clean place, great rooftop, breakfast €4 extra but I skipped it in lieu of a tyropita, espresso, and fresh squeezed OJ for a few euros from a nearby sidewalk café (SO many in Athens). There are a ton of Indian/Pakistani restaurants around the hostel. The excellent Pak Tikka restaurant offered half grilled chicken, salad, enormous naan and raita for a measely €4, amazing chai was €1 more. Closer to Monastiraki I grabbed a €3 falafel for a quick lunch while souvenir shopping.

Transport Heading to Ikaria I took the Blue Star ferry leaving port at 3:00 p.m., arriving Evdilos ~10:30 p.m., €42 in deck class which was fine. Around town the metro is the way to go, €1.20 for a 90 minute ticket valid on busses too but not for airport transport. For ATH the X95 bus departs 24-7 every 10-15 minutes from a stop at Syntagma Square, €5.50