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Published: August 15th 2023
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Zugspitze Summit
6pm and no time to dawdle with serious clouds rolling in and miles to go before I sleep. It was with great relief that after an arduous all day journey from Innsbruck that I summited another European high point although this was very much in doubt up to the last minute. All started fine as I left Innsbruck station on time, transferred to a bus in Mittenwald, Germany bound for Garmiesch-Partenkirchen (a.k.a., GaPa), sort of a Leavenworth in Bavaria, which is generally considered the staging ground for Zugspitze.
Armed with my GPS-enabled mobile app (Mapy.cz, fantastic Czech app), I immediately set out from the train station at 9:58 for the trail to Knorhütte via the Reintal Valley which is the non-technical route. Being a Sunday (and a German holiday weekend, I think), the crowds were insane. Having done little research on the approach, I followed the masses into the gorge where there was a gated entry, passed only after forking over €7.50. Presumably at the point of no return, I purchased the ticket which permitted me to be stacked behind the interminably slow "trekkers," at least one of whom carried his minature Schnauzer in his arms so the precious pooch could get an up close view of the raging river through the narrow chasm. Almost at my boiling
point, I finally reached the exit gate, passed through, and charged into the great wide open, actually the river flood plain where many people crashed out on towels for some serious sunbathing... it was hot! Needless to say, I would scope out a different return to GaPa as there were many converging trails near town and the gorge.
Unencumbered by the throngs, I made incredible time to Knorhütte, arriving in a tad over 5 hours after I'd left the station. Using my non-existent Deutch, I managed to check in which involved merely paying the €68 non-member fee for half-board and bunk, shower extra which was an unnecessary extravagence. After ~30 min checking in and sorting gear, I ditched my day pack and set out for the summit with a jacket, water bottle, camera, and phone-GPS. The sign at the hut said 3 hours to Zugspitze which was a bit disconcerting as I absolutely had to be back at the hut for dinner before 8pm if I did not want to starve as I'd brought very little in the way of food.
The first few kms went quickly but the last bit was up a steep scree field followed
On the Descent to Knorrhütte
Absolutely poured not long after lights out which was 10pm on the dot. I stayed mercifully dry the entire 2 day trip. by a series of hand lines along several switchbacks carved right out of the summit block. As I was nearing the 2962m (i.e., 9735') summit, I could start to feel the lack of oxygen or at least it was a convenient excuse for my sluggishness. Plus, it was only my third day in Europe after leaving SEA so was still a bit jet lagged. Just at the top was the end of the cable car where I met Tobias, a Polish climber who'd come up the via ferrata route. We ascended stairs to the summit viewing platform but the access stairs' door to get to the actual summit was locked! Conveniently, there was also a ladder over the viewing platform railing straight down to the base of the summit pyramid with a long warning sign in German. Neither Tobias nor I could get the gate in front of the ladder rungs open but a local helped us and we both hopped up on the railing and dropped down the ladder about 3m. A few people on the summit told us to wait as they were about to descend but we would have none of that. Mustering my last shred of
Rounding the Grassy Knoll Above Knorrhütte
Made it back just before last call for a huge plate of goulash. energy, I raced up the ladder fixed to the rock face and tagged the summit cross at precisely 6:00pm. Tobias was right behind me. There was little time for celebration, just a few pics for documentation.
Catastrophe averted, I practically flew down the ridge below the cable car, then the hand lines, and finally the dreaded scree field reaching its base at 6:42pm. I was less concerned with overall safety, weather, etc., than I was about missing dinner. Once off the scree and onto terra firma, I hoofed it to the hut with plenty of time to spare arriving at 7:38pm. Being positively famished, dinner was delicious during which I guzzled mass quantities of high quality alpine H2O. There wasn't much to do after dinner so I crashed out pretty early after the intense, all day affair.
Breakfast was 6:30am, typical Alps fare, bread with spreads, cheese, cured meats, all washed down with strong, brewed coffee. There wasn't much for me to pack up so I was out of there real fast which helped avoid the crowds and heat. Rather than drop down to the valley floor at the gorge only to have to go back up to
Knorhûtte and Zugspitze Summit at Sunrise
Bugging out just before 7am. Did not want to deal with the a.m. crowds so tagged the summit late p.m. day of arrival well after the cable car had stopped running. skirt the entry gate, I tried to be clever and stay high, contouring over to Laubhütte (incidentally locked up which seemed odd) along mostly bike-packing trails/service roads which were busy. The "contouring" proved to be more up than I would have liked and the subsequent long descent after Partnachalm was on pavement so my knees were shredded but I did save €7.50! I still made OK time back to GaPa, almost 5 hours or about the same as the ascent. Back in town and reeking, I stumbled into Asia World for their impressive €12.90 buffet for which I definitely got my money's worth. Had an hour or so to chillax at the station before commencing the return trip to Innsbruck and the end of a fantastic kickoff to this trip.
Innsbruck
Logistically it made more sense to go to Germany from here for the 2 day Zugspitze trip than to go from Munich as I could leave my bag in Innsbruck while on the mountain. Overall, the transport links are great but specifically the direct train to Zagreb, Croatia is a night train (comfy couchette purchased months ago) while from Munich would have been a day train. Also, I thought I'd do a bit of day hiking around Innsbruck but that was wishful thinking after getting thoroughly knackered on Zugspitze. Nevertheless, Innsbruck's setting is absolutely stunning and the weather defied much of the summer and was beautiful.
Accommodation and food All four nights stayed in the super clean youth hostel, first 2 nights after arrival in an ensuite single for €58/night then saved
mucho dinero after Zugspitze in a dorm for €33/night for 2 nights. There's a standard all you can eat breakfast buffet with real brewed coffee, always
muy importante. The place is about a 30 minute walk from the center but staying here for 2 nights affords the Innsbruck Card, mostly used for all local transport. Staying with the all-you-can-eat theme, I hit a couple of mid-day buffets for ~€14. Lange Mauer Chinese restaurant was about the only buffet open on the Feast of the Assumption holiday, closing restaurants in honor of a feast was a bit ironic. Best of the bunch was Mittagstisch Catering buffet in the
aldstadt. Both places take plastic.
Transport Aside from the extensive network of local trams and buses, the only transport of consequence is my train out of here all the way to Zagreb. It will depart Thursday at 00:56am, arriving 10:39am, cost in couchette with breakfast was €51.90 but to get that price I had to purchase a non-refundable fare several months ago. This should all work out leaving me one day of sightseeing in Zagreb before hopping on a night bus to Sofia, Bulgaria.
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