The search begins..

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Third time lucky!

9.30 sharpish I boarded a posh A/C Goldstar coach to Jaipur, a little anxious at what to expect but more excited about the possibilities that lay in store - a whole city dedicated to gems, precious metal and shopping… plus some amazing sites.

In all the chopping and changing with transport, I had forgotten my first rule - where in the city would I arrive? Predictably it wasn’t the bus stop I thought and after a fair amount of arrgybarrgy I was on my way to the Rajasthan Tourist office, MI road. I’m finding it best to head to a neutral place to avoid the congestion racket. Wandering through the streets of Jaipur, my eyes darted from one stop to another, all filled with brightly coloured materials, pashminas, ceramics, silver jewellery and string upon string of assorted semi-precious gems - chalcedony, turquoise, garnets, peridot, rock crystal, carnelian, pearls and more. It’s like tunnel vision!

I located my hotel down a back alley in the middle of Chameliwala Market. I had opted to stay in a very basic hotel in the centre, luck had it I choose one of the main jewellery markets, and then move out to one of the more luxurious heritage hotels; and basic it was but at least clean. After a lengthy lecture on the electricity and water rules of the establishment - I was to turn off all water at the mains in the room, only refill the cistern when needed and warned that washing of clothes would be charged at a rate of Rs30/ per item, I set of in search of refreshment. Add the shops with the usual bussle of an Indian city, although slightly less polluted than Delhi, the dusty sidewalks and numerous rickshaw, auto drivers and young men haggling for your attention it was rather an overwhelming start.

I made a quick jaunt into the market and wandered into a ‘pashmina’ shop, I was soon covered head to toe in scarf’s and working my way through the synthetic, to wool and silk blends and once all the counters were strewn with a variety of colours and types, the ‘special’ was surreptitiously produced from a locked briefcase behind the counter and I was informed it could only be purchased after 8pm once the shop owner has left! An indication of what was to come, it also an example of how fiercely regional the Indians are, apparently the specials were from another country, Kashmir!

After a restless nights sleep in the cell, not helped by the fact that next door’s hotel and mine’s water tankers were refilled at 12.30 and 17.30 respectively, both of which felt like they were situated right in my room, I was ready to start my search. Ummm first stop the nice café for a strong coffee and ‘musli, curd and fuit’. I got talking to an Indian guy who had been to school in the UK, but soon wished I hadn’t - I gathered by the end what type of filming he was into! I know that Indian’s (not all I know) have a warped view of Western women from satellite TV and some reality but it’s not all sex in the city, don’t they watch Discovery!

Anyway the search for gems began; I was to judge potentials based on my instincts, quality, price and whether or not he asked me out. Wandering further into the maze of little alleyways and covered walkways, past derelict and half built buildings, amongst the puddles and chai sellers, I peered into the ramshackled little shop windows, looking out for something - a type of gem, a certain cut, the clientele, the type of seller - producer, wholesaler, retailer - a whole medley of options to consider. When something caught my eye I’d first check to see if they were occupied, you can normally tell by looking at the shoes piled outside the shop and spotting the walking boots and Birkenstocks, then wander in. What you see on display is the tip of the iceberg, all around you the cupboards, behind the counter, plastic bags and paper envelopes are piled high stuffed with promise and there is more… in the little mezzanine levels, just above head height - it’s like a row of Aladdin’s caves. It was quite an exhausting task, not helped by my increasingly sore throat, but I felt at though I had a least started to appreciate what was on offer, met some interesting people and worked out my own spiel.

Feeling the success of the day, I met up with a fellow traveler, Georgia, for dinner. It was so nice to eat again with company - although weird to eat and talk. Having picked a restaurant that ‘alcohol was strictly forbidden’ we went off in search of a drink and ended up in the Country and Western bar complete with pantomime horse in Jaipur's latest plush hotel - boasting a revolving restaurant - were weren’t allowed up there! But hey G&T's were only a pound (no sign on keyboard!).

After a good nights sleep, nothing to do with the gin, I spent the next day searching out the old city looking for contacts, fighting yet more aggressive pashmina sellers who actually blocked your path. I know that it’s not all one way, it must be soul destroying to have to keep pushing your stock and I am here to take advantage of the cheaper prices and do appear to have money (!), but the balance is definitely wrong. I have heard that there is an organization that is trying to research what can be done on both sides; I need to investigate more….

I was approached in a shop by a gentleman offering to show me the back street factories. Initially I was nervous about going but I realized that if I was to break through the tourist barrier I would have to take the plunge and cautiously I headed off. It was pretty much the same as the front street except without the glitz but I felt like I was getting nearer the source and my confidence was growing.

That afternoon I whizzed off to meet Georgia at the Birla Lakshmi Narayan Temple, where the guide book promised free guides would explain aspects of the temple and Hinduism, unfortunately the holy men were otherwise engaged on their mobiles and we wandered around the modern temple discovering the mysteries of the carvings ourselves and exploring explanations for the pillars engraved with ‘Jesus’ and ‘Mary’. Personally I think it was a job lot left over from the local church!

Supper was a less swish affair in a local street café, munching on the largest pancakes, that filled the plates and guessing what the delicious side accompaniments were - dining with the locals, it felt good.

I realized I was in need of rest from business, with my next experience, I had texted one dealer to cancel an appointment and received the following text followed by numerous phone calls:

‘Who said that angle come’s to haven - while I meet her lucky yesterday. Will you be my friend, I have a name ‘shiny’ for you it was great moment of my life’

You’ve got to laugh!

Shiny - I didn’t think I was sweaty!

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Comments

[Vishal Mungi]

Birla Temples
I think you wud have found this out by now .. birla temples are a unique string of temples built in major cities. Their architecture is hindu but the concept is that they house the many deities that the various ppl in india pray to. Its a representation of the tolerant tradition that india follows.