Fatepur Sikri and Agra

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Another early morning (4.30am) start and Shatabdi Express, more Marie lites, and I was on my way to Agra. A quick stop (!) to buy my return ticket and refund on my Jaipur train (all of 2quid) and I hopped literally onto a local bus to Fatepur Sikri as it left the station. I now understand the local jibes about Uttar Pradesh buses; they make the Punjabi ones look plush. We bumped along passing roadside cafes decorated in tinsel, horse drawn carts, camels and the usual mix of other vehicles, passing the flat dusty/ sandy countryside and over many potholes.

The ghost city dominates the skyline as you approach, perched on the hillside. It’s amazing to think that such an elaborate sandstone construction was built without consideration for water resources and subsequently abandoned. I possibly found, with the help of numerous 'I'm an English student, not guide’ boys and an Israeli couple the dodgiest route to the top through the back streets, but once we has squatted away all the flies we climbed the stairs to the working mosque. It's housed in an elaborate sandstone courtyard with a white marbled building in the centre - the Shaikh Salim
Chishti's tomb. The tomb is surrounded by some fine marbled lattice work and inside the walls are covered with beautiful flower murals, some of the best I have seen yet. It's a place where childless women come, tie a red thread to the lattice screen, lay an offering of rose petals and scarf on the tomb (which looks remarkable like a four poster bed), one of top of the other, say a prayer and then receive a bop on the head from the resident holy man's broom! - I didn't escape as he was most insistent I was bopped.

I left the touts behind and moved onto the Palaces & Pavilions - Magnificent and in total contrast to the mosque, a peaceful almost tout free oasis. I spent the afternoon wandering the empty buildings, marvelling at the decorations/ murals, intricate stone carvings, watching the neatly turned out school children pose for group photos and a fashion shoot. Whilst sitting on a bench admiring the view, the soft melodic sound of flute floated over - a musician was testing the acoustics of the buildings - a lovely moment.

On the return bus I spent the journey chatting to another English traveller and we swapped stories and agreed to meet up in Rajasthan for a glass of wine. I haven't really touched any alcohol and although not missing it particularly, it would be nice. I can't remember the last time I've been more than a week without a glass of vino, let alone three!

Back in Agra, I jumped a cycle rickshaw a little dubious at his low price. I was right as we missed numerous turnings to the hotel and were approach mid cycle down a dual carriage way by another rickshaw driver, called 'Luckily', who volunteered to show us the way. It's a big scam, as they either insist on extra cash, or tell you your hotel has closed, burnt down, been blown up, vanished (all in the last 2 days since you reserved a room!) and take you to another hotel where they get commission. Unluckily for him, I had been reading the map and knew my way!

Arriving at the hotel, I discovered that there was a mistake with my booking but luck was on my side (again), Nittin, the friendly Chamba guide, appeared and sorted out a great room with hot water for only Rs 500. I was not planning on going to the Taj that afternoon as the weather wasn't to clear and the entrance cost was Rs750 (about 9 pounds) but I couldn't resist as the hotel was literally right next to the East gate and wander off to see the Taj.

I couldn't believe I was actually there, it's an incredible extravagant feat of design, set amongst ornamental gardens, flanked both sides by equally magnificent buildings to complete the almost perfect symmetry - the odd aspect being the tombs inside; I didn't enter as the queue of excited tourists snaked its way almost across the entire front. The building itself over looks the Yamuna River and I'd like to have it viewed it from the banks of the river in relative peace, but I been advised not to go alone for the sunset - another time.

The city (Agra) itself is not much to write home about, tourism being the main earner and full of rather pushy touts and little boys selling postcards but as I was prepared it was easy to ignore and there are always exceptions. I was more fascinated by all the other tourists, huge groups of locals, the silver hair brigade, European parties and best of all the rich Americans and Japanese snapping away with huge cameras - all following each other in a little crocodile line! Great people watching.

Up early to watch the sunrise, I'm so pleased I went again, it was almost empty and I watched the Taj emerge from the morning mist till the sky turned blue and it glistened in the sunlight - much more the image I had expected - mystical. I also ventured inside, the inlay work - pietra dura was fantastic, the gold of the lapis glittering, but much of it I believe has been restored after various periods of ransacking and you did have to peer hard as it's quick dark inside. I must admit I was a little disappointed as my childhood visions were that the gems would be faceted and set into the wall and the whole inside would sparkle. The outside work and huge arches were far more impressive.

Hunger drove me out of the site, you are not allowed to take in food or mobiles amongst other things and I weighed up my options for the afternoon - a) to explore the Agra Fort or b) browse the local craft markets - ummmm. Four hours later, having spent most of the time chatting to the local craftsmen about the inlay work, looking at their designs and work they had completed; including a 5m/ 4m dining room wall for the guy that invented the Aids cure! I returned to the hotel to check out. I was full of inspiration and carrying a very heavy marble box - why I don't know I am sure I will be cursing it's weight in a few weeks.

On the way back to the station, with the friendliest cycle rickshaw drive ever, I popped into Dasaprakash, a great chain of restaurants that serves south Indian food and had my first thali - I knew there was a traditional way to eat the food, I felt like an Eskimo who had just been presented with a plate of spaghetti, and after some help from the waiters munched my way through poories (puffed chapatis), popam, veg curry, curd, Rasam (lentil soup), sambar, aplom, Pickles and delicious sweet made of green lentils and nuts.

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Comments

[Ed Smith]

Great place
Glad you have been to Fatepur-it was one of my favourites.Stay safe