Delhi again... 2th - 4th Nov

---

It was so good to be back at Afzal's and as the place was full I was allocated the living room. It's like sleeping in a time warp - 70's Germany/ Ancient India - a swing whicker chair, huge paper ball lampshade in amongst old Rumals, Indian art, ornate carpets, books on all topics from English poetry, Politics, Karma sutra, to German linguistics and A's trinkets for her travels around the world - a complete treasure trove.

I had decided that it was time to purchase a Salwar Kameez - a kaftan top with voluminous 'clown like pants' (similar to Punjab suit) and headed off in search of a suitable outfit. I'm not quite ready for the sari, as I'm having enough trouble with my dupatta! After an exhausting search amongst the local clothes shops Fab India & Anouki - the India equivalent of Top Shop, M&S, Hennes and Debenhams rolled into one; I found the perfect outfit, green of course, and now look like a shiny Indian Granny Smith! Everyone has assured me that the colour would fade, but just my luck even after a hot wash the colour has stayed fast.

One afternoon I met up again with Nina and we spent the afternoon discussing life and eating the most delicious cheese on toast - even better than welsh rabbit - the cheese was mixed in with herbs, toms, onions.... Nina's husband was a mariner and she travelled the world on a cargo ship - fascinating stuff. In the evening we headed out to the India International centre for a book discussion - Diplomacy vs Conflict written by a former foreign minister from 50’s/ 70's. We had to get there early to ensure a parking place - it's an interesting if rather unusual system, you leave your car in neutral and the parking attendant pushes it up and down to allow other cars to come and go - another vehicle computer game me thinks!

It took all my concentration to understand the discussion and with a number of former foreign ministers (include the most recent who left last month) and renowned journalists I was in impressive company. The topics were around India's relationship with its neighbours - Pakistan, Nepal and China - with the increasing concern for China, the cold war, nuclear power, water resources, short termism and unprofessionalism of the government. It was a real moment to hear one of the former ministers who was around during Partician talk about Gandhi and his 'dialogue not violence' approach.

I feel quite uneducated and ill informed compared to the locals, everyone, from all backgrounds, has a view on current and past topics - political, environmental, human and more. It made me realise how apathetic we can be in the UK. One subject they never tire of is their health and everywhere you go there are signs for cardiograms, hip replacements, diabetes... I even met one guy would said that India had invented an actual cure for Aids. (Prendy is this true?)

I spent a very early morning exploring the Delhi flower market with Nina - so many colours and varieties - roses, crysanths, gladioli, orchards and much more all mixed in with the greenery, dyed flowers and photos of elaborate wedding arrangements - nothing is left undecorated and I picked up a few styles for my marital bed (so the lucky man better be prepared!). Connaught place was so empty it made pleasant change.

The last day before I left for the next adventure was tough, the pollution was high and smog heavy - really noticable after the mountains, rickshaw drivers were annoying and I forgot my passport so spent many hours standing in various queues at the train station and then after the initial excitement of sending my clothes to the dhobi, it wasn't ready in time for my departure so I would have to return to Delhi. Still I had the BEST meal so far mutton (goat!) sag, rice, dhal and a lovely evening with Afzal and her childhood friend - Leila Khan, who had just returned from Iran and whose son has just written and directed the Kabul Express, which I think was due to be shown at the London Film Festival.

Why don't we eat more goat in the UK - it's much leaner and nicer than most of the lamb we get?

---