Virgin of Carmen Festival


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South America
July 16th 2009
Published: July 16th 2009
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It is a scorching day in Huyro, so I'm taking a break in the internet cafe, where the sun at least doesn't hit. We have the day off from volunteer work and are at the Virgin of Carmen Festival. As seems to be the case more and more with this program (I'm a bit frustrated with this placement, for several reasons, but trying to find the best), we haven't been told a thing about what the festival is or what the history is, so I just researched it a bit... the Virgin of Carmen festival (throughout PerĂº) is a mix of Spanish Catholicism and Andean traditions, and here involves a big market with street vendors, along with a huge day-long parade with costumed dancers and marching bands that re-enact fights between good and evil. The icon/altar of the Virgin of Carmen is carried along, as well... and apparently, the procession lasts ALL day. Even in this heat.

The week has included a trip up the mountain overlooking this valley to clear some old Inca buildings... and post-mountain, I can conclude that a major theme of this summer has been overcoming fears, namely heights and curvy mountain roads. Heights was largely reduced in the rainforest on the 42-meter canopy platform that swayed in the wind, and mountain roads by riding in combis driving along switchbacking dirt one-lane tracks. Eek. If I was afraid of spiders or cockroaches or snakes or anything similar... the same would be the case.

Regardless, clearing was enjoyable; we hiked up from the road, through brush and cloud forest, to the ruins, and cleared them with machetes for several hours (for the record, tea bushes are impossible to cut down), then hauled huge logs down from the mountain for the maracuya (passionfruit) plantation; it was nice to have some physical work. We passed some local coca plantations on the way down, but none was growing at the moment. Yesterday we drove to a school with the prettiest view (and best place to play soccer, hands-down, because of this) a school can have... an enormous valley with VeronĂ­ca, 5600 m or so and glacier-covered, looking down over it. We painted the walls yellow, then stopped at a tea factory on the way back to learn about how they process the raw leaves (they sit for several days, then are ground up, fermented for a few hours along a conveyor belt, cooked in an oven, and ground up, then shipped in huge bags for further processing).

What else.... we've eaten really well this week, with a pork soup (pork fresh by several hours... we saw it alive only shortly before buying it) mixed with chicha (fermented corn beer) and rocoto (local peppers... amazing), and adobe-oven cooked duck and chicken and potato, with rocoto-roasted peanut sauce.

Sorry for the food descriptions... one more... we ate fresh trout as a school benefit (money goes to help the kids get to Machu Picchu), along with potatoes and pop, for the equivalent of $2.50. Incredible.

Anyway, we're off to walk back to Establo before the town gets TOO drunk (Peruvians like any excuse for a fiesta), and hang out there for a bit. More later... off to Cusco for the weekend for some whitewater rafting! Chao!

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17th July 2009

Careful!!!!!!!!!
Great- -make me nervous about you on the roads,whitewater rafting, and drunken incan blonde sacrifices... Sounds like a GREAT weekend-appears you're making the very best of a less formal program than you had anticipated-keep up the independent study....(but be careful...) We're off to vail in 10 days-no single track hiways for us, just I 70. We're flying to Denver-will be a shorter trip of 5 days. Then home 2 days and off to see you. Can't wait. No formal lodging plans yet, but I'm sure we'll take yur advice and just stay in cusco the first day, so you can plan that way. Enough about the food already!!?$?@?$# worse than mom and mel............. High temp today is about 60 degrees- -odd. ?Any pics yet????or still slow internet. Can't wait to see you -and it'll be nice to have you home for a while. Hope you're not too homesick-you're already almost halfway through this half of the experience already. Think of some good things for us to do-although it sounds like just hanging out in the culture isn't all bad. Give us a jingle when you can. We'll try to nail down some dates for travel with you. Love you-DAD
20th July 2009

Food's okay...
Hey, Laura, We love your updates. And if you want to describe food, SOMEone can just skip that part. There are taste buds I haven't used for a while and it's fun to have my imagination about your dinner wake them up. I'm glad you're having fun. The mountain dwellings are amazing and I'm interested in hearing more. Take care! We think of you all the time... Kris
25th July 2009

Wonderful commentary
Laura: I have been at the computer for over an hour, reading your description of your travels, and the people, and activities. You describle your time and travels so very well, I feel as tho I' am there with you. Be sure to tell me about the markets!!!! Can't wait for the next update. Love you and look forward to visiting with you back in Iowa. Auntie Marilyn
27th July 2009

schedule
Ok I'll try this on another site...We arrive in Cusco next Thursday Aug 8 about 9 a.m. Will plan on meeting you at our hostel shortly after.Thursday and Friday nights at San Blas Casa Andina. I guess it's a new chain. We're at the San blas site. Trip to ollytaytambo on Sat via markets, etc (Pisac) and then to El Alberge hotel/hostel in olly right on the train station Sat night. We don't have lodging in Aguas Calientes yet for Sunday night. People won't email me back. Am hoping to stay there Sunday night, get up early Monday am for Machu Picchu and then train out Monday night to olly or urubamba. Would then go back to Cusco on Tues. Could possibly stay in the Sacred valley before Machu for another night if we don't hear back, but then miss the early sunrise.. We're flying out early Wednesday morning to come home. You should try to move your flight if you can. Email or call us. Off to Colorado tomorrow(Tuesday) after work. Flying. Home Sunday night, then work 2 days, then Peru. Relaxing. Love you dad
4th August 2009

they had Dia del Carmen in Chile too

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