Leaving Colonia, it would have been logical to head to nearby Montevideo. Instead, with the dreaded South American summer approaching with its huge crowds, I decided to first visit Uruguay's beaches, so popular with Uruguayans, Argentinians and Brazilians, and explore less-popular Montevideo at Christmas. I was going as far northeast (toward Brazil) as possible and work my way back. I felt as if I were surfing a wave down the coast that I needed to finish before I wiped out at Christmas. However, I changed my plans to join my Montevideo friend, Alicia (whom I'd met in Salto) in Piriapolis for a few days. It's great being with Alicia because we speak only Spanish (called Castellano here and in Argentina). She's patient with my speaking, and since she has studied and speaks French and Italian, she
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