Dí­a 11


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South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos
July 11th 2007
Published: July 11th 2007
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"I´ll try anything once...twice if I like it"

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."

I would say these two quotes sum up today, but that doesn´t even come close to describing the day I had.

Day 11 started off fairly normally as the group met in the lobby of the hotel at 10am. Only this time we had no idea what we would be doing. ACEER did tell us that we would going to the Belen market after all, which was open and ready for business today. Afraid of being robbed, I brought nothing but my money purse and my camera, which was attached to my belt in its case. What else could I possibly need to walk through a fish market? Noseplugs, perhaps? They might not have even done the trick. A barf bag? Might have helped. DARK glasses? Definitely would have helped. It´s somewhat unfortunate that I can only upload text and pictures to this blog, because I would love to be able to share the smell of the market we visited today. Words can´t describe it. But along with the smell were the flies and bugs- hell, there was a ton of fresh fish and meat sitting out in the middle of the street! Along with fruits and vegetable too. We couldn´t walk through there fast enough!! Once we passed through the market, we waited in the housing part of the town for the rest of the group, and tried to figure out what was next on the schedule. Gave a little boy a package of cookies I had bought and took a picture of some of the local children.

Remember how I just brought the bare essentials for the market? Well, little did we know that we had an excursion on the Amazon River to follow. Usually prepared, I had no sunscreen, bug spray, handiwipes, or my journal. A few things I could have used....

The mototaxis took us to a dock on the Amazon, where we could wash up and buy some snacks and sodas. We ordered our lunch which we would eat upon our return... but where were we going? For a boat ride on the Amazon! Great. Didn´t have any Dramamine either... I made sure to sit by edge of the boat for this one. Luckily I was fine for both the ride out and back.

Our only stop during the boatride was to an area called "Boas," where we would have the opportunity to see some of the animals that live in the Amazon. I will let the pictures speak for themselves, but I will say that the one of me holding the anaconda was the only shot where I wasn´t screaming! I held a sloth, a parrot, monkeys, and even a toucan!

Of course my favorite part was the monkeys, although I am fortunate that the ones I held didn´t flip out and try to take anything from me. (yes, this actually happened to someone- he grabbed her bag off of her arm and swung it around, dumping all of her things on the ground, and ate all of her candy!)

Boat ride back to the dock for lunch, and then free afternoon and evening! Woohoo!! I had so much I wanted to do! Well, mainly just wanted to walk around the plaza near our hotel.

WARNING: the following is not for the weak or faint of heart. Moms might want to sit down to read this part (did I forget to mention that this would be a lengthy entry?)

Soooo, after a short visit to the internet cafe (yes, 45 minutes is actually short for me) Natalie and I decided to take a little walk. We needed to change money but where we are it is easier to hit the ATM and withdraw soles. Natalie has also been planning a trip to the pharmacy to pick up some decongestant, so that was the next stop. While I was waiting for her, a little girl in a pink t-shirt about 4/5 years old approached me with an open hand saying "cincuenta?" I asked, "cincuenta que?" to which she responded, "centimos," which equates to less than 20 cents US dollars. I asked her what she needed the money for, and she rubbed her tummy. "Are you hungry?" I asked. She nodded, so I told her I would take her to get some food. Gratefully she smiled, and put her skinny arm around my waist, and another little girl and a little boy joined her. I told Natalie that we were going down the street so I could buy them some food. We were joined again by 5 other boys, a little older than the first group. All hungry, we assumed, so they began walking with us. As we were walking, one of them pointed out to me that the USB adaptor cord for my camera had fallen out of my bag. Weird, I thought I know I had zippered the front portion of my bag. I thanked him, put it back into my bag, zippered the pouch again and continued walking.

Well, wasn´t it cute that while we walked to get food, the children walked on either side of us with their arms around our waists. At one point, a little boy with scars above his eyes switched with another boy, who put his arm around me. "¡Mira!" I hear, which means look! I looked down to see that the front portion of my bag was open yet again, and my camera was missing! And a few of the boys had run ahead.... I told the remainder of the children (yes, in panic mode) that I needed that camera back, as it wasn´t mine, I had borrowed it from a friend. Two boys ran off after the others and wouldn´t you know, returned with my camera, unharmed! I was so grateful that I had my camera back, especially since the memory card contained ALL of the photos and video I had taken since I arrived in Peru. Looking pleased with themselves, the boys asked for their "propina," or tip, for helping me to get my camera back. I knew that the whole scenario had been a set-up, but I wasn´t positive which boy had stolen the camera from me. I handed one of them a few coins, maybe 35 cents or so, and he looked happy for the moment.

We made it to the restaurant, which I though was going to be just an outdoor cart where the children could buy some food, and the kids sat down at the tables. I gave the woman at the register /S 50, which is about $16 dollars, and told her the kids could order whatever they wanted that 50 soles would cover. The older boys, the ones who were involved in the "robbery," weren´t satisfied, and kept asking me and Natalie for more money for their "propina" since they chased after the people who took my camera. I explained to them that I was not giving them any money, but they could order food if they would like. They kept insisting on more money, and were becoming disruptive to the point that the cashier gave me my money back. I told her what had transpired earlier, and that I was only trying to do something nice for these children, and apologized for the disturbance. She told me that this is very common here- the children do this for a living. And not surprisingly, they prey on tourists...

Eventually they all sat down and waited for their food, and Natalie and I left. There were a few other occasions in the restaurant where I could tell the boys were going to try and take something from me again, but my heightened senses at this point kept me on my guard.

As we walked away from the restaurant, Natalie told me that while I was speaking with the cashier, the little girl in pink was apologizing profusely to Natalie, telling her that they were so sorry, and that the other boys who had joined them are trouble and she doesn´t like them. Could she have been part of the ploy? Most likely, but I will never know.

The story doesn´t end there though, so please keep reading!

Almost back to our hotel, we see the two little girls and two of the boys again, carrying bags. They said they took their food to go. I didn´t think too much of this, and went back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.

We were on our own for dinner tonight, so Natalie, Mari­a, Vinny and I went to El Carbon, where we met up with Kathy and Aura. While we ate I told our story to Aura and Maria, since Vinny and Kathy already heard it at the hotel.

I was expecting some chastising from the group about being naive and a typical tourist which I got. But the moral of the story wasn´t about me being stupid for falling for a plot such as this. It was about being too nice, trying to do too much, and how what I was doing was only hurting them.

Hurting them? How could that be possible? I know not to give money to the homeless in the US because they will probably use it to buy alcohol and/or drugs. It is always suggested to buy them food instead. So how could buying a few poor and probably homeless kids a meal be hurting them?

Easy, Mari­a explained. The kids aren´t out there on the streets begging for money or stealing for themselves. Most of these kids work for somebdy, a parent or other adult figure. The children know their responsibilities are to find money or goods on the streets in order to keep the others happy. They don´t get anything in return, except maybe a place to sleep. From what I was told, the little girls who took their food to go had no intention of eating it themselves- if they were that hungry, it would have been eaten the second it was placed on the table. Most likely the children know not to come home unless they have something of value to bring with them.

I sat and listened in silence for a while. (yes, this does happen every now and again, and no, hell has not frozen over) And then I asked, "so what could I have done to help?" since my actions were only helping to perpetuate the problems here. By continuing to receive money or food or goods from people on the streets, these children will never learn how to live for themselves, and get what they need from life in more positive and productive ways. The only suggestions they could offer were to make monetary donations to organizations that we know will help the children directly or indirectly. I already do a lot of that, but it seems like it´s not enough. Not for me anyway.

I was told a story about a woman who grew up very poor in a part of Latin America. Living in a home with ten other families, rooms separated only by cardboard panels, three and four to a bed, climbing over passed-out drug addicts on the front steps when returning to or leaving the house, having a mother who many nights sacrificed her own needs by not eating so her four children can eat... this woman from a very young age knew that she did not want to end up like the addicts passed out on her front step. Her drive and determination led her to the United States, where she and her three siblings are all successful professionals, with families of their own.

What did I take from this experience tonight? Honestly, I am not quite sure how to put it into words yet. What I do know is that I plan to continue working with the U-Nica organization through George School to raise money for the school in Managua, Nicaragua. I hope to have the opportunity to do so with the class of 2010, who has already laid the foundation at Council Rock North and put U-Nica onto the radar.

I hope all of my faithful readers made it through to the end of this entry. I apologize for the longevity but as you can probably see, a lot of detail was necessary in order for me to truly share how I am feeling right now.

On a lighter note, well, ironical at least, I am sitting here next to an older gentleman who frequents the internet cafe. I know he is here often because I can smell the smoke from his cigarettes from any computer in this cafe. He has two packs of cigarettes with him and a lighter. He lights up occassionally and coughs in between cigarettes. About an hour ago I saw him using an inhaler for apparent asthma... people never cease to amaze me.

I have a lot to think about after tonight. I hope you all do too.

Alyssa


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12th July 2007

Hey Alyssa! Thanks for keeping everyone updated. I'm glad to hear you're having a wonderful time in Peru! Sounds like it'll be a life changing experience. I can't wait to hear more!
12th July 2007

the children
Hi Lis! I read and re-read your last blog, dia 11. It is so sad to see children go hungry anywhere in the world. However, they know the trust and the naivete' we have as tourists/Americans. They are charming and friendly and have those sad eyes. You were lucky to get your camera back. This unfortunately happens all over the world. It happened to friends of ours in Italy, by the gypsy children, who were working for their parents, or someone else. Keep your valuables close to you, especially on the streets and markets. The schools are safer, as they are supervised...but still be wise. It does make you appreciate what you have at home and how lucky you are. Instead of counting sheep at night...count your blessings. They are many.
22nd July 2007

great pictures!
I can't believe you held that snake- something I never would have done. The story about the children was sad, but like you said common. It reminded me of the young gypsy children in Italy. This is such a great experience for you! The pictures were great! Of course being the dog person I am I love the one of the puppy. Love you! Marci

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