Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide

South America » Peru » Cusco » Salkantay Trail
October 9th 2008

Published: October 9th 2008


My wife and I recently hiked the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu without a guide. The Peruvian government has now made it a requirement to pay an entrance fee to hike the Salkantay trail. We managed to avoid the fee. Here are some tips on how to hike the trail without a guide, and how to avoid the fee.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind
1. Hiking in the high altitude (15,000ft) with 30+ pounds of weight on your back is VERY difficult. You will feel like you're going to die, but you probably won't..... so it's all good.
2. Running water is abundant along the hike, so you can easily purify water along the way. Gas for the new high tech camping stoves that they sell at EMS (JetBoil etc.) is not readily available in Cusco, so you are better off using a stove that takes regular unleaded gas. I personally got very sick from the altitude, so I didn't eat for three days, therefore I actually didn't need to bring any food aside from a few power bars.
3. Study the maps carefully. There are signs on the trail directing you where to go, but they are not posted at every crossroad. We purchased a GPS trail map, which listed the Salkantay Trail. Links to download the PDF version of the maps we used are listed at the end of this blog. A link to purchase the GPS trail map is also listed at the end of this blog.
4. Read the blogs listed on this website. Memorize the landscapes in the pictures. Also carefully follow the itineraries as described by the tour companies whom offer the Salkantay Trail Treks on their websites.
5. Learn some Spanish. Hola, Buenos Dias, Cuantos Soles, Donde Esta "Soray" or the next town on the map are essential phrases.
6. Although there are TONS of warnings aimed at tourists reminding them that they are often victims of assaults and thefts, I found Peru to be relatively safe. The people are friendly and the culture is much more laid back than many other places that I've visited. Stay in tourist areas, don't wear expensive things (I geared up a WalMart not EMS), don't get drunk and stupid, and be “home” before midnight.

Getting to Mollepata
After you spend a few days in Cusco to acclimate you can take an early morning collective taxi to Mollepata. They are found on Arcopata. We took a taxi from the Plaza de Armas to Arcopata for 3-5 Soles and told the driver that we wanted to find a ride to Mollepata. He set us up with the transfer. The ride to Mollepata cost 60 Soles ($20) and takes about two hours. We let our driver pick up other passengers so he could make some extra money along the way, and we tipped him an extra 20 Soles because he was a cool guy and he showed us a secret trail to avoid the entry fee to the Salkantay Trail.

Avoiding the Salkantay Trail Fee Station
There is a cattle road/trail on the left just before entering Mollepata. You walk on that trail, over a rock wall and thru a field for livestock where you turn and start walking uphill toward town. If you're facing up toward the town, you want to stay on the left side of the village. Most of the residence will tell you to go to the center town, as they want you to rent their horses etc., but that is where the fee station is, so hang to the left. You will see an Olympic sized swimming pool with muddy water in it. It's probably a reservoir. An aquaduct is near the reservoir. You follow a single track trail along the aquaduct thru peoples backyards ect. It's a very pretty section of the hike. As you begin to leave Mollepata, the aquaduct trail becomes less inviting and you can now bring yourself to the road below which will take you to Soray. You will soon find a fork in the road where you want to take a right and start walking downhill. Both roads go to Soray, but the lower one has a better view of the mountains etc. At any time, if you have any doubts hang around until someone comes by and ask them for directions.

Avoiding the Soray Fee Station
Rumor has it that there is a fee station just over the bridge past Soray. We didn't cross the bridge and stayed on the left side of the trail, so we never went close to any of the buildings where guards might be posted. The left side of the trail was the quickest route to the pass, so no harm was done.

Camping on the Trail
Each day, we walked until a half hour before nightfall and camped as we saw fit. We did not stay at official camping areas or on peoples maintained property. We always founded hidden areas off the beaten path to camp, so as to not impose on others. Things in Peru are very chill, and camping on farm property is probably not an issue, but we avoided it anyway.

The Trail Near Colpapampa
The trail near this village splits in many directions so buy a drink from the locals and ask for directions.

La Playa and Lucmabamba
By the time you get to La Playa (on-season) you should see more tourists than you ever cared to. Nice flat pay to camp areas are available in peoples backyards, but we chose to avoid the masses of trekkers and kept on to Lucmabamba. It's a well marked half hour walk to Lucmabamba. We camped at a sketchy spot on the road halfway between the two towns.

The Final Day
Although the trail past Llactapata to the Hidro-Electrica is easy to find your way on, we decided to stick near tour groups and follow their lead on this final part of the trek. The train often departs the Hidro-Electica late, so if you still have energy, you might opt to walk the extra two hours on the tracks to Aguas Calientes. In any case, we hung around the train station and ate fruits and rice cooked by the Peruvian ladies and watched people. A train ticket is required, so ask some locals where the ticket office is.

Links to Download Maps etc.

Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu Maps
Lima, Cusco, Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu Maps
GPS Travel Map for the Salkantay Trail



Skate Vert
In my youth, in the 1980's, I had traveled across the United States and Europe. After a trip to Jamaica in the mid-nineties, I realized the grounded nature of the Rastafarian culture and took up it's influences. I never forget that I am more fortunate than most people in this world, and I thank the highest every day for my opportunities. My travels have taken me throughout United States, Canada, Mexico, Europe, Jamaica, Hawaii, Peru, and Costa Rica. Please keep in mind that all the information on these blog pages have been made available at no cost to the reader and therefore fall und... full info
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Ancient Peru was the seat of several prominent Andean civilizations, most notably that of the Incas whose empire was captured by the Spanish conquistadors in 1533. Peruvian independence was declared in 1821, and remaining Spanish forces defeated in ...more info

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Comment on Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide




Comments
Date: 12th November 2008

Great blog
Thanks for the great info. My wife and I are in Cuzco now planning to do this trek without a guide in the next few days, so it's great to know its possible. Thanks for the tips to save a few more Soles also.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 12th February 2009

Thanks a lot
I'm just beginning to research how to get to Machu Picchu without a guide and this was super helpful. Thanks a lot.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 21st February 2009

Very helpful!
My girlfriend and I are planning a trip and have travelled six continents South America being the last, so a bit tight on cash. We being very active was hoping this was possible thanks for the great tips. If anyone reading is interested on going in the next week let us know!

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 7th July 2009

Thanks
I'm going to be heading out there the end of August. You're tips were great! I did a similar trip in Guilin to Yangshuo China, and I highly recommend that on foot as well. How long did the entire trek take you?

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 8th July 2009

Too Long but Not Long Enough
We did the hike in three and a half days days. If there was sunlight, we were hiking. It kicked our *****, but even if it lasted two weeks it would have been worth it. Absolutely beautiful.....

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 21st July 2009

Salkantay Trek
Is the trail out of Mollepata marked / is it difficult to navigate your way out of the town and onto the Salkantay trail? Also was your entire trip on a marked trail? Quite a few pics I have been seeing look like there is minimal marking to guide you.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 28th July 2009

Trail is Well Marked, but Not Perfect
The description I gave for the start of the "secret" trail in Mollepata is as good as I can provide. Everyone in town knows where the official start of the trail is, so you can always ask around. The trail was marked well in most places, but at junctions where there was no label we waited until a traveler passed us, and then we asked them which way to go. Keep in mind..... The trail is a passage in which the locals travel on. It is nothing like a desolate hike as we have the United States, it is more like a walk thru various Peruvian communities. If you're confused about which direction to travel someone will pass you soon enough and you can ask them to guide you.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 4th September 2009

Awesome Info
My wife and I are in Cuzco getting ready to start the trip in 2 days. We actually have a copy of this blog printed out for help, along with topo maps of course. Thanks for the great info. You have undoubtedly helped us a ton.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 6th January 2010

Kudos
You two are true hikers. I salute you and will be following in your footsteps come august. keep up the good work

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 6th April 2010

Salkantay update April 2010
Hi there, Thanks heaps for the helpful info. I just finished Salkantay with a pal and it was absolutely fantastic. Just a quick update on a few minor things which could prove useful for anyone planning to do the trek in the next few months. We saw no fee-stations along the route so I don't think there's any need to scramble around Mollepata or Soray. The train from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes departs daily at 4:30pm. Locals may tell you that the train is only for local people. This is not true. The ticket office opens at about 3pm and you can buy a ticket at that time. The train ride takes about 20 minutes as opposed to a two to three hour walk (we walked but after four days of trekking you might fancy taking a load off your feet). Officials at the Hidroelectrica station told us that we would not be able to buy tickets to Machu Picchu without a train ticket purchased from Cusco. This is not true. A ticket to Machu Picchu can be purchased for 126 Soles at the tourist information centre in Aguas (it's located just off the main square). There were a few mudslides along the route between Colpapampa and Playa. Most of these had been fixed and the trail restored by the time we went though however, the weather at the moment is still variable and more mudslides are predicted. Don't let this put you off but be aware that you may need to take some minor detours to get to your destination. Ask the locals if the trail you plan to take is okay. It most likely will be but if not, alternatives are available. Unless you plan to walk back, book your train ticket in advance. They're booked up a long way in advance at the moment so do it as soon as you get to Cusco. The alternative route back via Santa Teresa (involving a hike and a bus) may not be your cup of tea after a long trek. It also takes about 8 hours to get back to Cusco as opposed to about three via the train. Good luck and enjoy. Cheers, Dale

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 29th September 2010

Salkantay update September 2010
Hey guys, Thanks a lot for your blog. It was really helpfull ! I did the salkantay trek on my own on early september so i'll give the last information which could be of some interest. I confirm what Dale says : there is absolutely NO fee whatsoever in none of the place you cross during the hike. They suppressed those fees about 8 months ago after an official complain from the tourist agencies in Cuzco was sent to the authorities: those "paytolls" were illegal. So no need to try to sneak away from villages. You cross a lot of estancias on the way (minimum 2 a day) where they sell basic food (drinks, snacks, chocolate bars, etc...), so give yourself a break and try to make it light on food : save some weight out of your back cause this trek is a pretty tough one... People are very friendly : i was able to camp for free in their backyard. Just buy them a coke or a snack and everybody will be happy. They also know the route perfectly, so use your best spanish and ask them! Maps i found in Cuzco were expensive and useless : the PDF that appears on this blog is good enough : print out the first page, read carefully this blog, download the GPS trail and you're all good ! If you don't want to pay the 25$ for the GPS map that's shown on this blog, you can download for free a good GPS trail on Wikiloc : http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=53933 http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=23336 One of those 2 is abolutely perfect all the way down to Aguas Calientes, unfortunately i can't remember which one so you'll have to figure this out yourself... You are not at all isolated from the rest of the world on this trek, you cross many people and villages on the way so don't hesitate to do it on your own if you have a minimum of experience. If you have enough energy for doing the trek all the way, i would recommand to walk the first part from Mollepata to Soray, going through Marcocasa (ask villagers), it's a very nice start ! Agencies go up to Soray by car through a different road... Sad. Then, after Collpapampa you can choose to go by bus to Santa Teresa, or you can keep walking to Lucmabamba (free camping spot on the football field next to the school) and then through Llactapata pass. Very nice... And it goes all the way down to HydroElectrica. From there, take a nice lunch break and walk along the railroad. I know it sounds weird but it is a super nice walk through the jungle and through those steep mountains around Machu Picchu... Definitely worth it not to wait for the train that shows up only at 6:00PM... Last comment: about transport. To go to Mollepata from Cuzco, i went to Avenida Arcopata at 4:15 AM and didn't even have to wait for the bus: you can hop on those taxi-cars that are waiting to be full for leaving. It cost me 10 soles to go to Mollepata and it took 2 hours. A woman is serving a delicious Mate de Quinoa and bread for breakfast right at the Plaza in Mollepata. And it costs 1.5 sol ;) For the way back to Cuzco, I walked back to Hydro-Electrica (but feel free to take the train, 8US$...) and took a combi to Cuzco. It costs 25 Soles and takes... a long time. They say it takes 6 hours, but for me it turned out to be 9. Other option by train, without paying for it! But for early birds only!!! there is a maintenance yellow cart that departs at 4:XX AM everyday from the train station in Cuzco and rides up to kilometer 82 just to check if the ralraod is OK before sending tourist trains from Cuzco. You can walk along the railroad for like 500m and wait for it. Wave your bills when he shows up and hope for the best! I know people who successfully did that. In my case, I couldn't wake up that early after such a hike... Good luck !

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 28th May 2011

Salkantay update May 2011
Hi there, thanks for you blog an all the useful information. We just finished the trek and would like to share the latest information: 1. I can confirm that there are no fees to pay, no tollgates or similar. You can walk along the regular path. 2. In case you want to skip the first day (Mollepata to Soraypampa) the taxi costs ~80 soles and takes approximately 1.5 hours. You can arrange it in Mollepata after you arrive. We took the taxi at 6:00am to start walking at 8:00am. 3. We published the full trek (1st day from Mollepata to Soraypampa by taxi) on wikiloc. You can find it at the following location including all the important way points (also with the point where the buses/minivans leave in Cusco: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1726915 4. If you are willing to walk for 10 or 11 hours, you can make it from Soraypampa to 'La Playa' in one long day. In La Playa you can catch a minibus to Santa Teresa (5 soles). From there you can catch another minibus to Hydroelectrica. Alternatively you can also walk to Hydroelectrica from La Playa as described by Arnaud. 5. Starting from the 1st of June 2011 you need to hire a guide to walk along the rail tracks from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes. At least this is what the officer at the checkpoint where you have to register told us. The guide costs 60 soles per person and also includes guiding at Machu Picchu the following day. Here is a picture of the notice: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/imgServer.do?id=604443 Can somebody verify this? Otherwise it's a really attractive hike, especially around the pass of Salkantay. There are lots of horses on the way. David

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide
Date: 19th June 2011

Salkantay updated June 15, 2011
Hi, many thanks for your blog and the information that has been very useful, especially the latest updates, so we explain our experience. We did the Salkantay trek from Aguas Calientes to Mollepata in 3 days, without a guide, entirely on foot, without taking any means of transport, with bags over 20 kg, with tent and all the food on our shoulders , though very long and hard stages. Day 1 - Cusco - Mollepata - Soraypampa 22km - 1.200m ascent - 150m descent - 6h Take the bus to Cusco street Arcopata leaving at 5:30 am at the price of 7 soles to Mollepata, takes 3 hours to arrive. Start walking at 9 am and go up through many places to buy snacks and drinks. We arrive at camp Soraypampa where the first night. Day 2 - Soraypampa - Wiñaypoco 26 km - 1,000 ascent - descent 2.300m - 10h Leave AbraSalkantay direction (4650 m) in 3 hours we reach the pass, the highest place of all trekking. Begins a long descent to Wiñaypoco (2535 m) where we camp the second night. Day 3 - Wiñaypoco - Aguas Calientes 35km - ascent 1.300m - 1.400m descent - 11h The road plan with slight decline to pass on the La Playa and take the detour on the Inca trail (2000m) from here up to the ruins of Llucmabamba (2850 m). A strong descent brings us to the train station Hidroelèctrica (1,800 m). A path that runs alongside the railway brings in 2 hours to Aguas Calientes (2050 m). Today we slept in a hostel, a well-deserved reward. Day 4 - Aguas Calientes - Machupicchu - Aguas Calientes 20 km - ascent 2.000m - 2.000m descent - 12h We leave at 4:30 am in Aguas Calientes, the day before we get to the Plaza de Armas ticket to enter the price of 126 soles with student ID 50% discount. From 5 am to open the fence to cross the bridge and climb the stairs. At 6 am We act the entrance to the ruins, if you want to get on Huaynapicchu (2,700 m) of you have been sealed before entering and should indicate if you want to turn up at 7 am or 10am. Cross monastery and we all queued for the rise, We act at 7am, we are the first to arrive and get to the top. Go down the other side through the Gran Caverna and the Temple of the Moon. Also climb to the summit of Machu Picchu (3,100 m), great views. We also visited the temple of the sun and Intipunku or after visiting the rest of the ruins, we fall back to the path of Aguas Calientes. The return train to Ollaytamtambo worth only $ 40 + 10 soles to Cusco. We walk from Aguas Calientes to Hydroelectric, there we took a taxi to Sta.Teresa (30 minutes) price of 5 soles, another taxi to Sta. Maria(1 hour) price 10 soles and another vehicle to Cusco (5 hours) 20 soles. You can find all the tracks to cd to the following address: Stage 1: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778253 Stage 2: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778244 Stage 3: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778231 Total Trek & waypoints: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778257 Total Machupiccho + waypoints: http://ca.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1778291 Additional Information: 1 - Do not pay anything, any input to any village, or camping, or at all. We in return we consume a drink in the place where we camped. 2 - During all the way to find places where you can buy drinks and snacks. 3 - during the walk you can find many places to get water and rivers. 4-If you do not like to walk can take vehicles: Mollepata - Soraypampa (auto) Collpapampa - La Playa (auto) La Playa - Sta. Teresa (auto) Sta. Teresa - Hydroelectric (auto) Hydroelectric - Aguas Calientes (train) 5-Do not pay anything to go by the path along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. All you have to register to Hidroeléctrica, but is free. 6-If you don't walk, you can take a bus from Aguas Calientes to the entrance of Machu Picchu for $ 10.

From Blog: Trekking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu with No Guide


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