Thus far to Cusco


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South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco
May 16th 2009
Published: May 17th 2009
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Where to start...the bus rides, boat rides, steep mountain inclines leading to wide open valleys, inclining streets that need an escalator. So much has happened since the last post that it´s more of an overview than an indepth description of towns, the people, and personal feelings. Hopefully the pictures will pick up where I left things out. If you want to know, email me and I´ll try to be more indepth. I didn´t share all the pictures bc there was so many and this computer is dark tinted so I can´t really tell which pictures I chose. From La Paz, I took a 5-6 hour bus ride to Puno, Peru through glorious mountain ranges with crops dispersed throughout and Bolivians hard at work tending their crops. Their homes are nowhere in sight, so who knows how far they traveled with their donkeys to get there. Atop the range the views of Lake Titicaca (puts Tahoe to shame) are breath taking with the clouds jogging by. The sky is the same color, however the clouds appear touchable, a little closer to heaven...when lost in the moment.
The bus comes to a hault infront of this body of water and their are boats to transport vehicles and us smaller folk across to the other side. It cost uno bolivano to take a whiz here. The hombre behind the stand is lucky I didn´t unzip right there to tell him what I thought of this fee. The facilities were disgusting, it is what you would think of in a trashy border town. Buckets lined up with I don´t even what to know what, piss stained walls, and a slippery floor (I´m guessing not from a fresh mop job either). The boat across this small section of the lake was prehistoric but it did have a motor. Looking out the window at water level at the surrounding tree lined mountains my life seemed small.
Back on the bus we stopped in Copacabana to have a bit to eat and prepare for our border crossing. My advice to you is to make sure you have the paperwork properly completed or else the lady behind the counter will shake her head, say your name in her adorable accent, have you step to the side, and fill out a new sheet. The exchange rate was better at the border than in the town of Puno. Go to the yellow building, which sells snacks as well as exchanges your money. From there, I slept most the way to Puno. Peru appears to have better looking crops and herds than Bolivia. There are also 5300 types of potatoes here and I haven´t found a bad tasting one yet. People are moving their herds of sheep as the bus gives a warning beep before it roars by. One time it was hilarious and a sheep was leashed up and freaked out and was decleated by its own fright.
Instead of wooden fences, they use stone walls at least a meter high that go on for indefinite distances. Remarkable and how time consuming. Once a dwelling is vacated it sits and deteriorates. Depressing feeling, but why? Can it not be used for another purpose?
Speaking of depressing, the cattle are so skinny, it is amazing they survive. But in I suppose in N.A. everything is fatter and unhealthier. So for me to put a judgement on the livestock would be erronious. Anyways, once in Puno, I relaxed for a bit and then walked into town to exchange money. I went to two banks bc each one had different rates. Then I strolled a few blocks to feel the city. Less trouist than La Paz, and locals like to look at me like I´m a zoo animal. Let me make that better, a Calin Klein runway model. I went back out with my roommate bc he wanted money and to use the net, so I went with. We checked out some local products and the mujers are much nicer here or maybe my spanish is improving so the conversation goes beyond Buenos Tardes.
At dinner, there was a four person Peruvian Band that sounded grand in their lil red costumes. The food was awesome. I had a local coconut chicken dish (jking) with rice and veggies in this mouth watering sauce.
Next morning, I was in a taxi bike to arrive at the docks. Three hours later , I stepped foot on Taquile Island, inhabited by ancestors of the Inca. Population 2000, they weave, play music, tend their crops, fish, and care for their animals. Very touristy, not my cup of tea. But the tea was, well very good simply. When a man and women get married they sit for 5 days in silence and relatives do everythign for them (even itch them). They see it as if, they can´t control their bodies how can they share their life with another. Atop Taquile we had lunch prepared by locals. I enjoyed kingfish, chips, and rice. After lunch, they showed us some of their traditional dress, weaving products, and dance. The soft breeze and panorama view was astonishing - the water, islands in the distance, and the mainland even further. Life can be appreciated with each breath and each blink.
From there the boat took us to the Amantani village for the overnight with the family. What an experience. This is the first year they are taking in visitors to give them an insight into their lives. When we got their, we played soccer with them...I only played a few minutes bc I would have rather watched the interaction between "us" and "them". After that, I meet my Papa, Alfonso, who walked me about 200 yards to their small lil house (the pictures will give you the describtion of it all). We ate dinner, and then dressed in their get-up and went down to have a dance and listen to their music. The homestay was everything I expected and more. The mama, Julia, was the exact picture you get in your head when you think of a Peruvian elder. Her smile was sincere and her presence was heart-warming.
The next morning, we got back in the boat for an hour ride to Uros (meaning fisherman in english) but known as the floating islands. The history to how they came to live on the floating reeds was eye opening. They left the mainland in order to find peace from other tribes. More indepth than that but, it is a one sentence not enough synopsis. Everything was brightly colored, the reeds and houses a vibrant tan. Their dress in bright colors.
Between the homestay and Uros, I was told we were improving their lives by coming and visiting and spending our money there. But, who is to say having more modern appliances is actually imporving their lives? I am grateful for the opportunity to spend time with these peoples but I feel we would be better off if we did not intrude on their lives.
The following day we took a long bus ride to Cusco. A very touristy town. Locals trying to sell you paintings, shoe cleanings, massages, and a barrage of other trinkits. A very European looking city as you will see from the pictures. Outside the town square it is very dirty and an irie feeling the first time walking around. After being here a couple days, I have grown more accostumed to the town and it doesn´t bother me to walk around. Kids are constantly trying to sell you things and we had one follow us for a few hundred meters before he finally gave up. One of the guys in the group had a ballon, so the kid was trying to pop it. I was laughing on the inside more than anything but some of the group was getting very irrate with the kid.
Anyway, for now I wait for the bus for the next city.


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