¿Qué país? "What country?" Shorthand for where are you from? That's a common question here, and the question calls for a simple answer. "El Medio Oeste de los Estados Unidos." But the answer is also the beginning of a new experience. One's home is never the same after going somewhere else. El Medio is a different middle than it was before. Eight months ago, I didn't know that Cuzco was in southeastern Peru. I'd never heard of Ollaytantambo, Quechua, Pisac, la Chicana, Chincero, Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Winay Wayna, Wayna Picchu, Intipata, Andagua, Cirani, Choco, Chachacoma, and a dozen other places. I'd never met Edison, Mario, nor had shishkabab in Arequipa, nor cuy, or cebiche, or ricotto rellena. Lima was a bean, and quinoa was something that sounded as if it should be in a cereal, which
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