COLCA CANYON, KINGDOM OF THE CONDOR

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Our second day in the Colca Canyon region was dedicated to exploring the valley and some of the towns founded in colonial Spanish times.

Our first mission was to arrive at the Cruz del Condor Mirador early enough to catch the condors gliding with the help of thermal winds, so we set out early in the morning as the viewing site was some distance from the lodge.

On the way, we did take some time to stop at the nearby village of Yanque, to watch some of the children dancing in the square, a morning tradition.

Along the way, we passed other settlements that dot the valley. I was constantly surprised by the small size of a lot of the houses we passed. They seemed more like Hobbit holes than real houses.

Also amazing was the thousands of small rock cairns that covered the terrain alongside the road for miles, balancing the stones perfectly on top of each other. It was overwhelming thinking the amount of time it must have taken to create so many.

But, constant throughout the ride, were the breathtaking views of the canyon and its terraced landscape. I never got tired of it. I'd also never had such a sense before that I had taken a step not just into history, but into living history. I believe for the inhabitants of these area not much has changed throughout the centuries. Speech, customs, way of life all seemed timeless.

We finally arrived at the Cruz del Condor Mirador. It's a popular tourist spot, and it was fairly crowded when we arrived in spite of being large, with several levels from where to observe the condors. We were lucky that it seemed like there were several condors putting on a display while we were there, although being able to catch them with a camera proved to be more or a difficult endeavor.

Eventually, we were able to tear ourselves away from the condors, to continue our exploration of some of the most beautiful scenery of the canyon and to visit a couple of the surrounding villages, like Maca, where we stopped for a visit to the ancient church and the lively Square for a photo opportunity with Fernando, a cute young alpaca who seemed totally fed up with his idol status.

The church was one of those buildings where we could see firsthand the damage caused by the earthquakes that affect the area. Unexpected, though, was the beautiful altars that covered the whole interior of what had only seemed a humble small town church.

I took the time, also, for a closer examination of a sculpture that was a dear wish to my heart. That is, an Inca in the process of eliminating a hated scumbag conquistador. If only!

Then it was time for lunch at The Alpaca Chef, a buffet style restaurant in what seemed the middle of nowhere, and aptly named since Alpaca was one of the Peruvian specialties being served. I deferred to more common dishes, the very good pork and chicken choices. After our meal we were introduced to the Chef, Juanita, who recited one of the poems she writes, dedicated to the local products she uses in her dishes.

Our next, and last, stop for the day was a detour to the city of Chivay located at midpoint of the Colca Valley. Here we went to visit a family owned textile shop where I bought a much needed and beautifully embroidered wide brim hat, before making our way to the city center where there was a festival being held at the Plaza de Armas.

Although getting around the city proved to be a difficult task that involved backing up and going around detours a few times due to the narrow streets and corners that were impossible for a large bus to manage, the festival taking place was definitely worth the effort.

As most religious things in Peru, there seemed to be a mixture of Christian and mythological symbols competing with each other in the altars and decorations erected around the square. Bands competed to see which group could play loudest and attract the biggest crowd to join in the dancing. It was really fun and lively, with colorful costumes and dance inducing music.

Alas, we departed too quickly but, with big smiles in our faces, we returned to the lodge with enough time to relax with one of the options offered by the lodge. We chose one of their excellent Pisco Sours at the bar.

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Photos

Yanque
Children dancing in the Square

Yanque
Sabancaya

Yanque
The Square Church.