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Published: January 18th 2012
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We awoke very early and the owner of the Hotel Aluna arranged for a local to drive us to Parque Nacional Tayrona ($70.000). The plan was for him to drive us to AND INTO the park. If you exit the taxi outside the park, you have a surprisingly grueling 30 minute walk to the trail. I was very glad we opted for the extra drive.The downside is it costs 10.000 pesos for the car to enter the park and leave (there is a shuttle but it was empty and you have to wait). The guide book said it was about a 3km walk. If you are loaded with packs, you will regret the walk. The first part is quite easy, just walking along a smooth flat road, although slightly uphill. It will be hot though and 3 km will only get you to the parking area. Then it is a difficult walk of 4 or more km to the first campsite.
After you enter the trial, the walk really was nice. It took us about 2 ½ hours to walk to Cabo San Juan. We stopped many times and enjoyed the ocean and the forest. If it is wildlife you
seek, you will be very disappointed. Almost none to be seen. Clearly, the wildlife has moved deeper into the jungle away from the trail. But it really is a nice journey. We entered all of the campsites just to check them out. Many people camping and others relaxing in the hammocks. The huts look very nice – some very large. At Cabo San Juan, boats return to Taganga at 2 p.m. You buy the ticket at the food/snack stand. We waited almost 2 hours, which passed very fast as there is a nice beach for swimming. At 2:05 p.m. be began to board the boat. You need to enter the water to your knees to get on. All was going well, but then there was a problem with two passengers. A person on the beach was demanding that they leave the boat and talk to him. They did, and after much talking one returned for a backpack. They walked away in the direction of the food/snack stand where you buy tickets. The boat drver was yelling in Spanish. We waited and waited…..30 minutes later they finally returned! The boat driver and crew were mad. We finally departed at 3:00
p.m. Ok, no one warned me about what was in store for us. The water was rough, really, really rough. I am talking 15-16 foot waves. The boat would climb and then bashing over the wave with a thundering BANG! The driver was amazing. The waves were so powerful that he was weaving his way through the ocean. He did this so that we hit each wave in the front of the boat. Only one time he failed to weave properly, I am not certain if he did not see the wave, or misjudged it, but it hit us from the side. I nearly pissed myself and I heard Lance say “shit”. When the wave hit, the left side went up very high, but then crashed down in a massive dip until we were almost at a sideways angle. It was very scary but the boat quickly righted itself and although we continued for an additional hour, it never happened again. It truly is a skill to drive a large boat in those conditions. The routine was, as he approached the wave he would cut the motor to almost nothing as we fell to bottom, then he would give the
boat FULL THROTTLE as we climbed to the top of the wave. The moment we reached the top, again he would cut the gas to the engine. This occurred over, and over, and over again. Each time water would come cascading over the top and onto all of us. Within 20 minutes we were all soaked to the bone. My brother was glaring at me. Finally he turned and said, "no matter what, I will never ride in a boat with you in a 3rd world country again!" In January the winds are very strong, so be prepared for what is in store for you if you choose the boat. Both our hotel owner and my Spanish teacher told me this ONLY happens in December and January when the winds are very strong. Wish someone had told me………
My Spanish classed were delayed until the afternoon so we could take this trip. I was suppose to take classes from 5 to 8, but because the boat was delayed and the ride was so long we did not get to Taganga until 4:30 this was our only chance to see the city so we walked around Taganga for
Parque Tayrona
The Beach at Cabo San Juan. 15 minutes. It is small so we covered most, but certainly not all, of the streets. I liked it a lot. Wish we had spent an overnight there. Lance is complaining just a bit that his back is hurting. When the boat came into Taganga, we each jumped from the left side. It was about a 6 ft drop. I felt it when I hit ground, but my landing was good. Either Lance hurt his back during the exit from the boat or during the ride in the ocean. He thinks it is ok. Arrived at the school at 5:30 and told Else, my teacher I would be back in 15 minutes after a shower. I was covered in dried salt from the ocean. I returned and she was so kind to extend our time to make up for my late arrival.
The school and my teacher. The school is Neotropical Language School www.neotropical.se and my teacher and her husband own the school. It is small school run out of their home. I read many good things about the school on the internet. When I sent an e-mail, William was quick to respond and very
helpful. The top floor of their home has a very large screened in porch and classes are taught there. Else is one of the best teachers of Spanish I have every had. She speaks almost no English but we relate very well. I can understand her Spanish almost perfect. For some odd reason, she can always understand my Spanish no matter how badly I speak. I will work with her for a total of 15 hours. I wish I could have worked out more time with her. She is teaching me so much Spanish!
After classes, we had dinner at a truly wonderful restaurant. Ben & Joseps. I rank this place at the very top of all the restaurants in which I have eaten in Mexico or Cental America. It was awesome. I ordered a 12 oz filet Mignon with garlic mushrooms. We had Mushrooms sautéed in a blue cheese sauce and onion rings. Lance had some really awesome Shimp. We had an entire pitcher of Sangria. Wow, my steak was every bit as good as any steak in the US. Cooked perfect and very tender. Our entire dinner cost $58.00 - Lance paid.
Parque Tayrona
Boarding the boat. Tomorrow we will move into the mountains. Not sure how yet, but we need to travel about an hour and climb 3000' into the mountains to Minca. We will tour a coffee farm and not sure what else. We will return the following day. Lance is getting his massage tomorrow while I am in class from 7:30 to 11:30 am. We will leave immediately thereafter.
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