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Published: January 10th 2008
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Caracajou
Fearsome, killer parrot beast. Beautiful but deadly. Geez Popp, relax. Pictures are coming. I'm back in Punta Arenas and have my USB cable now. Technology willing, this blog should have pictures.
On December 23 I drove into Torres del Paine again, with my guide par excellence Felipe Goreux, from Santiago originally but now living on a fjord on the coast of Chile, about midway down. He and I were off to hike for seven days in Torres del Paine, and what a week it was!
For starters, we had six days of great weather, and one day of pretty good weather. Felipe said he had never had so much good weather in one trip, so that was fantastic. Secondly, instead of doing the classic circuit in seven days, we opted to do the "W", which takes you up the most scenic valleys, but also to add two other valleys which are not on the W and which most people never get to. This would turn out to be a fantastic decision.
On the way to the park, we saw some incredible wildlife. Not only did we see guanacos (very common on the drive in), but I was able to get a good shot of a
Condor Feast
Mmm ... carrion anyone? caracajou (a parrot-like falcon) as it waited for a car-struck hare to die and begin eating, but also a group of 24 condors, some circling, some waiting on the ground, and some eating a carcass beside the road. Not the most pleasant thing to see, but the side of the condor is incredible! Up to eight feet wingspan, I was told.
We also got to see some ñandu, an ostrich-like flightless bird. They were particularly concerned about a fox that was stalking them (out of the picture) so didn't care about the van stopping.
The final bit of the road into the park, well, actually to the refugio Torres which is already in the park, was along the narrowest vehicle bridge I have every been on. It was so narrow that the van had to stop and pull in both side mirrors before we could across. The picture doesn't do it justice!
Our first day was a short hike along the Torres valley to the Torres Mirador (viewpoint). The Torres are the Torres del Paine, towers of sheer rock rising straight up out of a lagoon and unbelievably spectactular. But not only is the destination beautiful -
the steep approach is too. So, pictures of Felipe and myself as we start the walk. Three hours laters, the Torres during the day.
After a masterful dinner at the campsite (Felipe turned out to be a spectacular chef too, producing from his giant magical backpack three cheese snacks with olives, and incredible sandwiches made with home-made bread every day for lunch ... I have a new, profound respect for the versitility and longevity of the lowly avocado), we turned in. At 4.30 am the next morning, made a night trek back up to the mirador to catch the sunrise off the tips of the Torres. Again, the pictures don't do it justice, but you can get the feeling for it.
I was also lucky to be in the park while the flowers are in season. The most spectacular I saw was the "Virgin's Slipper", which looks exactly like a little orange show with a tiny white insole. There were whole patches of them on the walk up.
This second day was also our trip up to the Valle de Silencio. Not many people, beside climbers intent on bagging the peaks, go up this Valle, but it
was well worth it. A hard slog, the views were spectacular. We first past the climbers camp (Japonais). Climbers usually have to wait a long time before they get a window of weather good enough to try for a peak, so they have a lot of time on their hands. The campsite was littered with carvings and sculptures, and a couple of homemade shelters which were quite intricate. Felipe is beind the mask tree. Besides one tent, the camp was empty.
We pushed on, across snow fields to see the Valle. It's a natural amphitheatre, with a glacier below you trailing down the mountain. You are surrounded on three sides by towering peaks, which can't really be described well. Across the glacier, on Escudo (the Shield), the climber was attemping a solo ascent. You can see his tiny bivvy tent as he climbs up to it, below and to the right.
We stayed, Christmas Eve, as the refugio Chilenos. The trip had us staying in a tent everynight, but the refugios have campsites for tents (for which you pay), and also provide breakfast and dinner. The Christmas Even dinner was a fantastic buffet, and Felipe and I met
other Christmas trekkers, particularly Danielle from Germany. It was a great way to celebrate Christmas.
The next day we has a nice, short hike to Refugio Cuernos. Situated under the Cuernos peaks, this refugio is spectacularly beautiful, which is saying a lot in this area. Again, the weather was fantastic. We walked along Lago Nordenskjold to ge to the Refugio, and could see the Cuernos and the top of Frances Peak as we finished the day. Felipe said he had never seen Frances to clear as it was that day.
Because if was so hot, we braved the cold waters of the Lago for what was a very, very refreshing swim. Worse that a northern lake, but still not too bad.
For snack, Felipe had remembered a dish my mother makes, usually only at Christmas, that I had mentioned to him the day before. It's essentially a wheel of camembert, heated to the point of melting, topped with walnuts, drizzled with maple syrup, then cut and served with crackers. Somehow, he found walnuts (he had the cheese) and made a sugar syrup from sugar and water. It was incredible thoughtful, as I had been feeling a little
Me - Client Extraordinaire
Or, as the guides call us, "Passengers" homesick it being Christmas and all.
But a spectacular way to spend the day, nonetheless.
Stay tuned for Part III of Paine!!
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masao
non-member comment
climber
how and when do they go to the bathroom?