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15 Moai all in a row
Each of the 15 Moai is unique and thought to represent an individualWell, we are really are finally here. For the history of Easter Island, please consult Lonely Planet or your local library or if you are lazy, try Wikipedia. Needless to say the five hour flight was worth it.
It is interesting in that I came to this place with a whole bunch of questions about the Moai. I am leaving with more. It seems that in absence of written information about the histoy of the Island, Rapa Nui´s people rely on the oral tradition. Considering that small pox nearly wiped out the population (down to a little more than 100 native survivors), lack of natural resourses and fighting between clans (long ears vs. short ears....I am not making this up) that it is amazing that there is as much information as there is.
As far as Rapa Nui goes, while an island, it does not have that island vibe that I have experienced on other islands in the past, probably because most people who come here are not your college backpacker crowd looking for a cool bar on the sand. Speaking of which there are only two small beaches on the island. The island is vaguely reminiscent of Hawaii
I think someone is watching us
The only Moai on the island with restored eyes in terms of landscape without much of the plant life you see on Hawaii. Steep cliffs line the shores and sharp rocks jut up while huge waves that crash against the shores. It is not a place I would consider swimming in, with the exception of the two beaches. The other interesting thing is that there are more horses than people here on the island. They wonder free and one of the biggest problems is that they scratch themselves on the Moai, causing damage. This brings me to my soapbox......
There are many World Heritage Sites. This island has no preservation going on. The only thing protecting the monuments are caring Rapa Nui people who gently remind visitors to stay away from sacred sites. It is a truely sad thing. Erosion from wind and sea salt is damaging these treasures. Horses are galloping over priceless pictographs. These things are irreplacable and yet there is nothing but a few paltry signs saying stay off the platforms. As a result of it being the down season, and the weather being questionable (It is freezing here and our first day we went caving, it was truely difficult and unpleasant), there are few
Up to our necks in Moai
We spent a lot of time exploring the quarry where the Moai were carved people you meet at the sites, but I did have the unfortunate experience of meeting an American who took a bungee and strapped his college shirt on a Maoi to get pictures. I think this is just part of the fact that many Americans don´t have a healthy respect for others culture. Fungus was recently removed from a small group of Moai, with assistance of an international team. Apparently while part of Chile, Rapa Nui really is it´s own thing. So my point is that it is important to support cultural organizations and groups that help preserve our past.
The other interesting thing here is the expensive nature of the island and the lack of food. Planes come in with provisions twice a week and let me tell you that the shelves go bare before those flights from Santiago come in. It is not abmormal to spend 15USD on a sandwich. I found this interesting. Coke for example for 1.5 liter bottle is about 1.80 USD. I think they have beat NYC. Heck, my Pina Colada was over 12 USD...but worth every penny! (Tanya...it´s all you girl!)
As for the sad side of the island, stray animals abound.
He ain't heavy, he's my brother
I think gravity is working against me It is common to find horse bones, we actually found one in an advanced state of decomposition. It was sad. We have two dogs at our guest house and one got bit in the ear. Eric went and got medicine for it and it was more than two times the amount it should have been. Attitudes are slightly different here as life and death. One of the local instruments was actually a horse jawbone. It makes almost a rattle sound.
And speaking of music, we went to a dinner show last night where our food was cooked in Palm (a la Bourdain style) and they did traditional stories and dance. As apparently they found out it was our anniversary, Eric and I got to solo. He Hakka´d, I hula´d. It was so embarrasing at least I won´t see any of these people again. Hopefully there is no artwork!
As far as the Maoi, what you have all been waiting for they are truely enigmatic as they gaze out over the landscape. They are really beyond description. Each is individual. They were meant to provide ¨Mana¨or power, once activated by giving then eyes. They must have been an amazing
Finally peace and serenity
An old volcano adjacent to the quarry now used as a resevoir site with their obsidian eyes staring out over the villiage.
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Tanya
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Pina Colada
How funny, I had this HUGE Pina Colada urge the other day and could almost smell it!! That is my FAVORITE drink! Thanks woman for thinking of me while you were enjoying it---the thoughts made it here to US soil!! ha ha ha. I can't wait to see photos and now I want to learn more too! Sounds amazing!! I almost feel like I'm there, the way you write! You are doing an amazing job and educating me at the same time! Sounds like a dream trip! So, would you go back there? I think I saw a documentary a few months ago on the Discovery channel. HAPPY Anniversary!!!!!!!! I'd love to see Eric do that dance!!! Sounds like a very spiritual place with just so much history. God bless you guys for helping the animals! That is so sweet! Maybe you will have room in your suit case for one?? :) Feel free to have another Pina Colada for me! :)