Rio, Baby! - Spectacular Travel on the Cheap

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Rio, Baby!

Spectacular Travel on the Cheap

Where to go?

I’ve had the travel bug for several years now. Earlier this year I felt the need to take a trip. I had enough mileage for a free domestic plane ticket so that meant we only had to buy one. Then a credit card deal came in the mail for 25,000 free miles on American Airlines if you signed up for a Citi credit card. Normally, I only get a credit if there is a great deal on the interest rate but this was too tempting. With this, I thought, Dawn and I would have enough mileage for two domestic tickets or one international ticket. I love Europe so I began looking at those options and how much it would cost to buy enough mileage to get a second ticket to Europe. During the off-season it only costs 40,000 miles to go to places like London and Paris. Then during a phone conversation with the credit card company they put the idea in my head to apply for a second credit card and get 25,000 more miles so I wouldn’t have to buy any. Not being averse to having credit cards or using them I thought that was a great idea. So I did just that and now had enough for two tickets to Europe. But it’s difficult to use American Airlines miles to Europe because the dates they allow frequent flier mileage to be used are limited, at least to the most popular destinations. When I became frustrated trying to schedule a European trip I tried another city I’ve wanted to visit, Rio de Janeiro. Surprisingly, the mileage needed to Rio was the same as London and Paris, 40,000 miles in the off-season. Dates available for frequent flier miles were plentiful and accommodations were affordable. Thus started our adventure to a part of the world neither of us had ever been to.

Flight and Hotel

When I booked our “free” flight on American with my frequent fliers miles I found out that these flights are not free. It was $69 to book each flight. Go figure. I then booked our accommodations, an apartment in the Copacabana section of Rio. I searched what must have been 100 apartments on various web sites. I thought we would be more comfortable in an apartment than a hotel and that it would give us a more realistic Rio experience. That hunch turned out to be right. Besides, we really wanted a balcony and this seemed to be the only sure way of getting one. We found a beautiful one bedroom apartment with two balconies on Constante Ramos just one block from the impressive granite mountains that surround the beach community of Copacabana and four blocks from the fabulous beach.

Traveler beware! You need a visa to travel to Brazil! American Airlines did not offer that information nor did the owner of the apartment. I accidentally found out when I thought I would stop by the travel agent around the corner from my house and ask if they had any advice about traveling to Rio. The agent said to not bring any expensive jewelry and be careful about cameras, etc. as pick pockets can be a problem. That’s normal in any large city. Don’t look like a rich tourist. Just as I was about to leave I asked if there were any new documentation requirements besides a passport. That’s when I was hit like a ton of bricks by her statement, “you need a visa”. This was on a Monday and we were leaving Thursday. After much stressing and fast completion of paperwork and paying $130 each we had our visas from the Brazilian consulate on Wednesday. So now our “free” plane tickets have cost us a total of $199 each counting the airline fee and the visa.

American sent us through Miami and Sao Paolo to get to Rio but they do have a direct Miami to Rio flight. The flight to Rio or Sao Paolo is about eight hours. We were on a jumbo jet 777. Our seats were in the very back which seemed to get more turbulence than the front of the plane and the air circulation was not adequate so I would not recommend sitting in the very back in the middle section of seats on a 777. Try to get seats more towards the front. As a result when we arrived in Sao Paolo I was a bit nauseated and that made the short flight to Rio uncomfortable and required me to use our first few hours in Rio to recover.


Arriving in Rio

After baggage claim, customs for non-Brazilians was quick and we went right to the foreign exchange office to get reals for dollars. I don’t know the exact rate but we got 242 reals for 190 dollars. Our taxi ride to the apartment was arranged by the apartment owner and we soon found out that very few people spoke any English or Spanish. We thought that there would be many Spanish speakers in Brazil but there weren’t. Portuguese may look like Spanish on paper, but in practice it doesn’t sound anything like it. As a matter of fact it sounds a little like French. The fare was pre-determined at 70 reals for about a 30 minute ride.

The cab ride took us through many areas. From the freeway we saw some of the worst poverty we’ve ever seen. Rio is a huge city, about the size of New York, so you expect some poverty and homelessness and Rio certainly has its share. You see some homeless on the streets but there was no begging. There were plenty of street vendors but no fast talking salesmen trying to relieve you of your money. The streets were clogged with buses and taxis all driving very fast. Cars are mostly very small and when you see the size of parking spots and garages you know why.

We were greeted at the apartment by the doorman and the maid who both made us feel welcome and secure. After our settling-in time and flight-recovery time in our beautifully decorated apartment with great views we ventured out and were surprised to find it getting dark around 5:30pm. This was the first week of May! It also rained a bit that night so we weren’t able to really accomplish any sightseeing our first night. We shopped restaurants a bit and ended up at a place that was way overpriced but it was good and the portions were big enough that we got another meal out of the leftovers. After exploring the streets of Copacabana a little bit we returned to the apartment.

Copacabana

Our first full day, Saturday, had us heading for the beach around 10:00am after a very pleasant breakfast on the balcony. But first, we walked towards the end of the street where one of the majestic mountains juts out of the landscape almost vertically. On the way we happened to see three little wild monkeys running along the top of a billboard and some power lines. As it turned out, these would be the only wild monkeys we would see on the trip.

The apartment was just four short blocks from Copacabana Beach and after just a little walking in the beautiful weather we realized we better go back and get the sun screen. There were plenty of vendors selling everything you need for the beach and you can haggle with the prices but we also wanted to change into swimwear so we went back to the apartment after grabbing a bite to eat.

Upon returning to the beach we found it crowded but not overly so. All kinds of activities were being played from volleyball to soccer to boogie boarding and surfing and something resembling racquetball called fresco ball. Soccer is king in Brazil and there were hundreds of kids gathered in small circles the entire length of the beach kicking the ball attempting to keep it aloft as long as possible and doing quite a good job of it. I couldn’t resist engaging in some wave play in the very sizable and challenging surf. It can get quite rough in spots and caution should be used. After recovering from said wave play we continued our walk on the beach towards Sugar Loaf.

At the end of Copacabana is a large rock with a walkway built around it which is used mainly for fishing. From that fishing area you can see the Christ the Redeemer statue on top of Corcovado overlooking the city. It was worth the walk just to see that. We continued our leisurely stroll back towards our part of Copacabana this time along the street, Atlantic Avenue. It’s lined with hotels, condos, and restaurants and has a mosaic sidewalk that is sort of a trademark for Rio. We stopped at the Marriott Hotel to see if we could find someone who spoke English and we did. The concierge at the Marriott spoke fluent English and it was a relief just to be able to converse with someone. We got some much needed instructions on getting to Corcovado for the next day as well as a good street map.

Strolling and Eating

During our walk back to the apartment we passed a shop window loaded with luscious desserts and pastries (it seems there’s one on every corner) and noticed it was also one of those dinner buffets where you pay based upon the weight of your filled plate. The price seemed good so we decided to come back there for dinner and we’re glad we did. Our meal at the 686 restaurant on Copacabana turned out to be our best meal in Rio with a large variety of food on the buffet and great desserts. I think my favorite dish was the salmon. It had a delicious sauce on it like I’ve never had before. Upon returning to the apartment we watched a locally made movie called “Bossa Nova” that was among the many CD’s and DVD’s the owner provided. It had nothing to do with the bossa nova but it was a good movie to see some of the local culture and modern living in Rio.

We began our trip to Corcovado about 10:00am after another pleasant breakfast on the balcony and headed for the subway station nearby. We found the subway clean and efficient. Again, communication was difficult when trying to buy tickets since the clerk did not speak any English or Spanish. Fortunately, the person in line behind us did speak some English and, also fortunately, when I paid the clerk the 68 reals I thought he requested he returned most of them making me realize that it was actually 6.80 reals for both of us to ride to the Largo Machado station. There we were to catch a bus to the train station for the Corcovado train which takes you up to the statue.

When we got to Largo Machado we found that it was close to another beach, Flamengo, so we took a stroll over there to take in the view. Along the way we found a beautiful outdoor flower shop, a picturesque church and fountain, and an outdoor flea market. The streets along the beach were closed to traffic that day for a festival of some kind so there were lots of families out strolling and playing. There is also a long stretch of public park along this beach. On the beach we once again found lots of people playing volleyball and fresco ball. There is a great view of the famous Sugar Loaf mountain from there as well.

On the way back to Largo Machado we stopped at a KFC for lunch and had a nice salad. It was served on a real plate! It seems the country of Brazil is much more ecologically oriented than the U.S. I say this based upon the high use of a sugar cane based methanol fuel for cars, the priority placed on having large trees line city streets, motion-activated lights in some places and the use of real plates in a fast food restaurant. The menu there was very different from an American KFC. It had much more local flair. Upon returning to the bus stop we struggled to communicate with someone else waiting for our bus to figure out the fair and they also informed the driver as to where we were headed. All of the locals we encountered were friendly and helpful.


Corcovado

We reached the Corcovado train station and found a clerk there who spoke English and learned about the soccer game that night between two local professional teams, Flamengo and Botafogo, for some kind of championship. It was being played at the city’s soccer stadium, Maracana, which is one of the largest in the world. The ride up the mountain was spectacular. The train ride cost 36 reals each (about $25) and lasted 20 minutes through dense jungle. Occasionally, we passed by a small village. Surprisingly, we did not see any animals during the whole ride up and down the mountain. In a few spots the jungle opened up enough to expose a spectacular view of the city below.

The summit, where the Christ the Redeemer statue is located, is over 11,000 feet in elevation. The air was noticeably cooler. There was a short hike up some steps to the base of the statue and the most spectacular views in the world. You could see the entire city. The combination of the mass of buildings, the numerous inlets, bays, beaches and the ocean along with the majestic mountains that poke up through the buildings and along the coastline make for the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen anywhere. The Christ statue itself has to compete for the tourists’ attention with those views and at the same time it looks down lovingly with a kind of fatherly pose on the entire city as if embracing it with His outstretched arms. The base of the statue has a small chapel with enough pews to hold about a dozen prayerful visitors. No picture taking is allowed inside. There is a lunch counter just below the summit with outdoor seating that also provides breath-taking vistas. Souvenir shops also inhabit the summit but they don’t take credit cards.

Rio Sul Shopping Mall

After several minutes of picture taking and riding the train back down the mountain we returned to the Corcovado train station where we learned where to find a bus that would take us to Rio Sul, a shopping mall on the way back to the apartment. However, we missed that stop and ended up taking the bus all the way back to our apartment thus also learning that we didn’t need to take the subway at all. During the ride back we noticed overflow crowds at every little sidewalk café watching the soccer game. Amazingly, as we were told, the mall was open until midnight on a Sunday night so we decided to get a bite to eat and take a nap and then take the bus back to the mall. While we were back at the apartment we watched the soccer game and enjoyed hearing the crowds on the street yell wildly each time a goal was scored.

Rio Sul is a six story shopping mall featuring all kinds of stores and food. There was not a big atrium like you typically see in U.S. malls. This was just for shopping and it was packed and it appeared as though people were spending a lot of money. Prices were high to very high. Notably, we were looking for a blow dryer and didn’t see one for less than about 80 reals which equated to about $60. We didn’t buy one. I was also looking for a Brazilian soccer jersey and couldn’t find one for less than $140 reals or $105. So, the only thing we bought was an ice cream cone for one real.

We looked for an English language newspaper but could not find one anywhere. Not in a book store in the mall nor in any of the newsstands that occupy every intersection in the city.

Buses run frequently even late at night so it was easy to get back to the apartment and settle in for a good night’s sleep and our last day in Rio. As on each day before, we got up when we felt the mood. This, along with not adhering to any kind of schedule kept us in a very mellow mood throughout the trip. Our last day was the day to walk to Ipanema.

Ipanema and Shopping

Having breakfast on the front balcony each morning was one of the simple pleasures of this trip that we will always remember. Temperatures remained moderate throughout our stay so it was always pleasant. As we headed out for our walk to Ipanema I purposely took us down some streets we hadn’t been down before to see more of the city. It being a Monday, a business day, the streets were very crowded with buses and taxis. As we walked we looked at all the shops hoping to find the bargains we were looking for. Dawn happened upon a hair salon that was able to schedule her for an appointment late in the afternoon as we returned to the apartment so she scheduled that.

Finally, we found a shop that had the prices on t-shirts and jerseys that I was looking for. A Brazilian soccer jersey was about $35 as opposed to the $100 I saw at all other stores and $70 on ebay. T-shirts were $15. Once again, while communication was very difficult, we found the people at Azzam on Av. N.S. Copacabana, 1138-A very friendly. After stocking up on gifts for all the kids on our list we continued our trek to Ipanema.

The walk to Ipanema from our apartment was only about a mile I’d say. It was a cloudy day and a business day so the beach was nearly deserted. We did not find Ipanema as attractive as Copacabana but it was still breathtaking. We walked along the beach and the sidewalk for a while and then had lunch at a nice restaurant right there. There is a rocky point with great views at the east end of the beach so we went out on it and I took the opportunity to have my obligatory handstand picture (I own a gymnastics gym) taken by Dawn there with a great view of Ipanema in the background. There was also this outdoor beach-side “gym” of sorts where some guys were lifting weights made of concrete. There were chin-up bars and parallel bars as well.

We started our walk back towards our apartment continuing to scout shops for our final purchases and just happened to find a small gift shop with all the touristy stuff we were looking for at great prices. It was called Amalfi and was very close to the other shop being at 1100 Av. N.S. de Copacabana. We were delighted to find just the right gifts for the remainder of our shopping list. On the way back, Dawn stopped at the salon for her appointment and I went on ahead to the apartment to shower and pack and load the pictures and videos that we had taken onto the computer and send the final email of the trip to friends back in Houston.

Dawn and I were both thrilled with the job they did at the salon and it was very affordable. The cab ride back was arranged by the apartment manager for the same price as when we arrived, 70 reals. I realized when we got to the airport that the meter in the taxi only read about 35 reals so when the driver said the fair was 70 I realized I had been taken. He offered to take less but a deal is a deal so I paid the 70. The flight from Rio went directly to Miami without going through Sao Paolo. When we got to Miami we had to get our checked luggage and re-check it as well go through security again. That seemed like an unnecessary hassle, but, welcome to airport security in the United States.

Some Notes

We had no problem with the electrical voltage in the apartment using our American appliances. The tap water was fine to drink. Mosquitoes did not bother us at all. We wore mosquito repellent bracelets just in case as we heard there was a rash of dengue fever cases at the time. Crime was not an issue for us at all but we did as everyone recommends and stayed in the touristy areas without looking like a rich tourist. Our building had 24 hour gated security as well.

One final and silly note. I had heard that toilet water circulates clockwise instead of counter-clockwise when you flush in the southern hemisphere. I did not find that to be true, at least with our pressure-assisted commode in our apartment.

Altogether we spent $600 each on our five day, three night trip including the $199 each for what we thought was going to be “free airfare”.


Saying Good-Bye

It was bitter sweet leaving Rio. We had had the trip of a lifetime. Even though we really couldn’t communicate with people we found them very friendly and as helpful as they could be.
Of course, the main thing that you remember about Rio is the incredible scenery. It could be the most beautiful city in the world. Get there as fast as you can. We definitely hope to return some day.

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Photos

Christ The Redeemer
on top of Corcovado

Comments

[SHANNON]

JENNY'S SISTER
Hi I'm Jenny's sister, John your're article was well written and enjoyable. I enjoyed the spectactular pictures as well. It looks as if you guys had a fantastic time. The view from the apartment was nice. How did you leave it???? Thanks for sharing. Shannon