Jabaquara Campground - Paraty

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Paraty & Jabaquara Campground, January 25 to 30, 2008

Visiting the Pantanal was scraped because of … wait for it … too many mosquitoes! Turns out the hidden agenda was a six day stay at Jabaquara Campground.

This place is situated along Jabaquara Beach. People walk out from the town to sit by the water. There is no surf to speak of. The beach sand is not free of beer bottle caps and other refuse ... would not lie here or walk barefoot.

Paraty is an old, pleasing town on the Atlantic coast, four hours from Rio and closer to Sao Paulo. Its importance was great when gold was discovered in Ouro Preto. The Golden Trail is a stone pathway into the mountains thatwas used by mule trains and slaves to get to the gold fields. The gold was panned and then brought out to be sent to Portugal from the Port of Paraty.

In Paraty a small museum gives the history of the old town. Photos, dioramas, and life size figures make the story emphatic. The figures have been made by the same people who have a puppet theatre, Teatro Espaco, near the harbour. I went to a presentation at the theatre. The puppets and puppeteers are world famous. The Museu do Ouro had information in Portuguese. With a little effort the horrors and historic facts became evident. In one smalll room ,behind black curtains a space to depict the hold of a slave ship has been created.At first all that can be seen are wide eys peering from the walls. After a short time in the dark the shapes of people shackled people surround you. DRAMATICALLY IMPRESSIVE.

In the historical section of Paraty the architecture represents a time from the 19th century. The buildings have many doors. The majority had been businesses where goods entered, were traded and then were shipped on. These structures now house restaurants, ice cream parlours, hotels, and shops with all manner of tourist kitsch.

The shops are eagerly awaiting the strolling tourist. Feather earrings, beaded necklaces and creations made of native seeds were all impossible to resist. Did resist coloured plastic jewellery that was extremely expensive. It seemed so unique! And then I saw the same stuff, even the stool decorated in a collection of plastic buckles and buttons in Rio. One cannot blame the man for broadening his access to clientele. Do not regret leaving the very expensive pieces behind.

In general Brazil is not cheap. One dollar equals R$1.7 (reals).



The Jabaquara Campground was a 20-30 min. walk out of the actual town. It was crowded with Brasilians and twenty overlanding trucks, which were gleefully awaited by La Jefa and the rest of the overlanding enthusiasts. Only one toilet and shower facility served all the campers. At one point I went in and found no space at basins, never mind the toilet bowls.

And it rained! I slept two nights in my tent.

The beach at the campground is not phenomenal. Staying here for six sleeps, IN THE RAIN, loomed unpleasant.


While walking the to the bus station I met a man who offered me a place to stay in his house. Actually he is creating a business for himself by building sleeping accommodation adjacent to his house. Could only sleep there two nights because Thursday became the weekend and then the space would be rented as a R$900 package for holiday seekers from Sao Paulo. His second business is a kiosk at the bus station.

Because of the rain Hils stayed with me one night at the Family House.

We also enjoyed the more posh Posada Arte Colonial together. The room was clean and spacious with a lovely bathroom. The inclusive breakfast was delicious. Did not avail myself of the well appointed swimming pool … antique tile and plate decorations making it most appealing. This hotel is just around the corner from the bus station and Wash Paraty. There was no water for the laundry so the second set of my clothes that needed to be washed were not.

Many tours are on offer in Paraty. Hils and I bought a schooner tour …R$25 … ? to three beaches and four islands. Swimming and snorkelling were available. Snokeling equipment could be rented for R$7. Lunch was included.

It rained all day during our schooner excursion.. By the end of the trip a hot shower was the most important thing on my mind:
one to get the sea water off and
two to get warm.


And the rain continued.

One day all the streets were flooded. The water disappeared overnight. Stagnant mud had to be scraped from the rocky street and from in front of entrances. Slippery rocks in the streets were a challenge.

The harbour is full of small boats ready to take out passengers. At the end of the wharf the schooners stand ready for day long excursions.

One man was seen loading bags of cement on his little boat. He lives two and one half hours, by boat, away from the town. The cement was for home building.

Another man was weaving hats and bowls out of palm fronds. He sold his creations for R$15. Many little enterprises on wheels sell a large variety of delicious cakes. These cakes are covered with see thru plastic and served on small plates. The ice cream was fantastic. I had to have some at least once a day. Maracuja is still my favourite … since Cuenca!


Paraty, the town is pleasant. It is full of tourists. Drummers practice nightly for their appearance in the Carnaval Parade. One evening I went to the community area to listen. The decibels were so HIGH it felt as if pins were piercing my eardrum. Had to hold my ears shut and eventually I had to move away from the drums. It was too intense.

Missed thewalk on the Golden Trail ... doubt it would have been easy or pleasnt in the rain. Spent quite some time on the Internet, trying to get a flight for Hils and reseervations for myself in Rio. The Alpha Hostel did not work out.


I said my goodbyes to the truck people. Some of these people have already escaped my mind, others I will never ever see again, a few I will visit if in their country and two I have missed since they left the truck in Panama.

On January 30, I was on my way to ... Carnaval in Rio.

looking out the window of the bus while travelling along the Atlantic coast, terrific beaches could be seen. Any one of them is a better place to spend six days. Any one of the towns would have been a great place at which to get off.

It did not rain while I travelled on the bus.

Arrival at the Rio Rodoviaria was uneventful. The taxi to Niteroi was horrendously expensive … R$55 … the beginning of my “Carnival in Rio” … who was in that movie and will I be able to find a print somewhere?

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Photos

Canal-side Restaurant
There were many pictureque setting in Paraty.

Pretty in Frills
All dressed up for ice cream, this was not the only pooch to sport hair decorations and lacy dresses.

Horse and Bus Compete
In the smallest town and the biggest city ... yes even Rio ... horse carts are still in use.

Sitting with New Friends
It rained all day. The cushions are plastic and the sound system was covered with a black plastic bag.

The Inflatable
A crew member rowed in those passengers who did not feel confident enough to swim to shore. Brought everyone back too. The pull of the waves was VERY strong.

Shrimp Boats
PAraty was celebrating aCamaron Festival. The shrimp beds must produce well here.

Decorative Masks
Alll the lamplights were festooned with ribbons and masks in preparation for Carnaval.

Sitting Poshly
... why sleep in the rain and share 8 toilets/8 shower stalls with 40 ... yes 40 maybe more ... at a noisy, drunken campsite?

Mule Train Diorama
Exhibits at the Museu do Ouro told a powerful story.

Mercantile Supply
Paraty was a port and source of supplies for the miners and owners who lived and worked in the hills.

Mixed Media
Cloth, sculpted clay and acrylic paint have been used to depict the horror and sadness of the slave trade.

Church by the Port
The carriage was available for tours around the historic centre.

Stones, Rocks, Boulders
Fences, streets, retaining walls, foundations, and ramps are constructed with stones from the area.