Todos Santos

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A combination of indigenous tradition and Catholic beliefs, November 1st marks Todos Santos (All Saints’ Day), a day in which Bolivian families gather to welcome the returning dead. The ceremony begins at 12:00pm on November 1st and continues until noon on November 2nd. It is believed that their loved ones return from their mountains to live for 24 hours with their family and friends.

In the Aymara culture (Andean culture) natural death is not tragic, but part of the cycle of life. It is believed that when the souls return they bring fecundity and fertilely for the whole year. This is important timing as November begins the planting season.

Celebrations begin with an Almuerzo (big feast) held by families to honor the departed. A place is set for the deceased and they are believed to be taking an active role in the meal. The main dish served is Mondongo, which is a spicy pork served with rice, potatoes and choclo (corn). They also drink chicha (a fermented corn drink coming in many colors) and Singani. Drinks are served in a circle, with each person in turn inviting their neighbor to drink.

After the celebrations it is common to visit the cemetery, where people gather to greet the souls of their dead. They bring offerings, say prayers and sing.

In the event that the deceased has died the same year, an apxata (table or altar) is prepared. The apxata is laid out with photos of the deceased, religious objects, cocoa leaves, tantawawas (baked bread) and many of the deceased’s favorite foods and drinks. A white tablecloth is laid out if the remembered deceased is a child and a dark one if the deceased is an adult. They might also hire a yatiri (musician) to pay and sing about the deceased.

November 2nd is Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Families return to their homes to pray for the souls of their loved ones.

While Todos Santos is a big festival in Mexico it much more of a somber event in Bolivia. Family do gather to eat and drink together, but there are no parades, dancing, or festive parties.

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Photos

Apxata
Bread in the shapes of ladders and baskets to symbolise the gateway between those who have passed away and their living relatives, and the goods that both parties carry.

Cemetery
People walk by sites containing ashes of the deceased. Momentos and flowers are placed behind the glass doors to pay homage to loved one