Cosmic Bolivia - Part 1

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My head's a bit in the clouds today, which is fine for a day of running errands and some light sightseeing in La Paz. I think my full night of sleep yesterday should be enough to cancel out the two nights of no sleep (having too much fun in Bolivia...). And it can't be the altitude playing its tricks on me. By now I've gotten used to it, except when it comes to climbing steps or steep hills. Maybe a little New Year's pensiveness is the cause but I think it's from all the time I've spent the past few days away from La Paz, in sacred sites whose legends and history are seeped in the cosmos - the sun, so important to the Incan and pre-Incan civilizations, the constellations, whose forms were the foundation of many beliefs.

On Saturday, I joined some new friends (2 Kiwis, 3 Brazilians) for a trip to Tiwanaku (Tihuanaku), the site of a Pre-Columbian civilization 60 kilometers west of La Paz. After driving through the barren altiplano, with some incredible views, we arrived to the place where, in 1500 B.C., a group of people was figuring out a way of life that would later influence a myriad of cultures, including that of the famous Incas. Monoliths at the site show an iconography that reveals utter respect for animal figures such as the puma, the snake, the llama, and the condor, whose images embody less tangible, spiritual beings and values.

Much of the culture is still a mystery, as buildings and statues and household items remain buried under the soil. But for thousands of years, a way of life flourished here and for much of that time, Tiwanaku was the center of the region, like a capital of the surrounding cultures. These people were advanced for their time, with a calendar system based on their adoration of the sun god, buildings constructed in perfect harmony with the rising of the sun, and a reflection pool used to study the constellations, of which the Southern Cross was most important to them. They even prospered agriculturally, which is difficult in this high, windy place. The potatoes and potatoes and potatoes (and some other things) that they cultivated were not only sustenance in this harsh landscape but also something to trade for the fruits of the yungas (the jungles of Bolivia).

Geometrical and artisitic stone cutting, with the use of metals to connect pieces, resulted in some significant monuments that we saw, each with a purpose but also with its bit of mystery. One monolith, 8 meters tall, is a representation of a man in ceremonial pose. Our guide explained all the symbolism on his body but there is one thing no one knows a reason for - the strange arrangement of one hand. The man stands with both hands pressed on his stomach, palms down. One hand looks normal but the other is impossibly twisted! Human anatomy can't do this: the thumb of the right hand is pointing to the man's left while all the other fingers point to the right. Can you imagine what it looks like? Theories say that this strange hand actually belonged to a second spirit, standing by the other one's side...who knows.

Sadly, a lot is unkown about this culture, because of the way things change over time. Apart from erosion and climatic reasons, the Spanish conquest and colonization led to the destruction of many of Tiwanaku's riches. Gold that once adorned the Sun Gate is gone, leaving a barren face. Ears have been cut off some Chamapuma (man-puma) statues, making them a pretty sad representation of the warrior class.

And now, although Tiwanaku is a registered UNESCO World Heritage site, it is sadly in bad shape, considering its value to the history of South American civilization.

A couple more highlights:
- Inside the lower level of the temple are 175 or so heads that used to show the different types of people who were part of the Tiwanaku state. Now the faces are smudged but you can still use your imagination to see the distinctive facial structures and shapes.
- At the nearby restaurant, where lunch (of pejerrery, a Lake Titicaca fish) was included in our tour, we sat right next to a wedding party. It was nothing like ours in the USA. Only about 7 people were present, and the simple celebration was punctuated with what looked like a delicious meal, white paper confetti topping everyone's head, and the colorful skirts, the women's best, probably. After eating, everyone left in a taxi.
- Our guide was full of detailed knowledge about everything from the types of stones used in construction to the method of preparing the potatoes for use.

One thing about Bolivia that fascinates me so much is the persistence of indigenous culture in daily life. It's truly amazing, especially when I compare it to places I am used to. That's why I hope archaeologists manage to find out more about Tiwanaku, and that the customs that remain don't die out with modernization....There's something inspiring about these ancient cultures, how they managed to do so much, to create so much, without the tecnhology we have today. We can make anything we want at the touch of a few buttons, but what about the effort, the intelligence, and the resourcefulness of past times, when everything was much more difficult?

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Comments

[Elvira]

Finally!
Nat, it's a great way to end my workday - get notified that there is a new entry in your journal. We haven't had any this year yet... Happy New Year!