Since the province of Tucuman is Argentina's sugar capital, I felt obigated to visit the Museo de la Industria Azucarera to see how this sugar thing happens. The museum is situated in the former home of Bishop Colombres, who had a hand in revving up and encouraging the sugar industry in this province. From the home of such a pious man (usually such men are indifferent to high living standards, no?), it's obvious that sugar was proftable. Now the house sits in the middle of San Miguel de Tucuman's (the capital city of the province, usually known as just Tucuman) city park, off to the east of the center. I used this historical spot to escape for a minute from the sun. It was barely 11:00 AM but already the day was hotter than any I ... read more

One of my EFL students in Buenos Aires was orginally from Salta, and I always admired his enthusiasm for life, his easily understood Spanish, and the pride he showed in his province. One day I read a feature article in the weekend paper about cock fighting's success and challenges in Salta, and prior to that, I had tried the wholesome humita en chala and empanadas that are typical of the region. That's all for my prior experience with Salta. And, even though friends returned from vacations raving about the beauty here, I still felt like I had to discover this place for myself. There was some attractive mystery to it, something that drew me in. It was the main reason for my chosen trip route. All the Paraguay, all the Bolivia, all the bus time, was ... read more

I'm going to let the Quebrada de Humahuaca speak for itself, through photos...It's easier to understand the incredible colors, the depth of the beauty this place projects. This was my experience along the Quebrada: Starting on my first day in San Salvador de Jujuy, the capital of Jujuy province in northwestern Argentina, I took a day trip to Purmamarca, a charming little place, just for a couple of hours to get my introduction to the area. I had passed through the night before, as part of my hellish bus day, but it had been too dark then to see what was about to amaze me...The route along the Quebrada would prove to be as interesting as the towns that dot its path. The following day, I left San Salvador on an early morning bus for Humahuaca, ... read more

I've never felt this way before, but I am amazed by the flamingo. I admit it's always been an eye-catching animal, in a freak-of-nature sort of way. Flamingos are pink and funny-looking, good for some amusement. But now, after visiting the Salar de Uyuni and its surrounding landscape, dotted with multicolored lagoons, I feel a newfound respect for the bird. Up here at 4000 meters above sea level (and even higher!), three species of flamingos have their home: the flamenco andino (Andean flamingo), with a black butt; the flamenco chileno (Chilean flamingo), nice and pink; and the smallest, the flamenco de James (James' flamingo), a white variety. I cannot understand how this silly creature balances that oblong body on scrawny little legs, especially while bent over with its long neck twisted to better shove its beak ... read more

My head's a bit in the clouds today, which is fine for a day of running errands and some light sightseeing in La Paz. I think my full night of sleep yesterday should be enough to cancel out the two nights of no sleep (having too much fun in Bolivia...). And it can't be the altitude playing its tricks on me. By now I've gotten used to it, except when it comes to climbing steps or steep hills. Maybe a little New Year's pensiveness is the cause but I think it's from all the time I've spent the past few days away from La Paz, in sacred sites whose legends and history are seeped in the cosmos - the sun, so important to the Incan and pre-Incan civilizations, the constellations, whose forms were the foundation of ... read more