Witches market and road of death


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South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » La Paz
November 21st 2006
Published: December 7th 2006
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Witches MarketWitches MarketWitches Market

DLF top right
La Paz - the worlds highest capital (according to some).

We seem to be running through South America. There is so much to see and so little time to see it all. Bolivia and La Paz especially is how i imagined South America. Argentina and even Brazil have such massive influence from Europe its easy to forget you're not on the continent somewhere (the European continent that is), whereas Bolivia feels completely different and charming. Okay so there are some pretty dodgy parts and some rather dodgy people but in general our impression was very positive and friendly.

The first day in La Paz while Stacey and Diane looked at shoes and avoided dynamite throwing student protests, Muzza and I braved the world's most dangerous road on bicycles. The ride goes from La Cumbre to Coroico and is pretty much downhill all the way barr a few chest tightening thigh burning uphill stretches. Even these are not very high but any exertion at altitude is exhausting ...

The ride itself was throughouly exhilerating, there have been many casualties on the journey. Last year an Israeli girl went over the edge trying to avoid a bus, and there are many many crosses and monuments at the side of the road indicating where many unfortunates have lost their lives careering over the edge in vehicles or on a bus. Personally i would rather be on a bike than at the hands of some maniac behind a steering wheel.

Our guide was excellent and looked after us very safely ensuring we stopped when necessary to allow vehicles coming the other way to pass. Incidently this is the only road in Bolivia where you drive on the left. We decided it was so that vehicles coming uphill can hug the mountain and dont have to judge their off-side wheel and the edge. Anyway the ride was 'awesome' and provided some great views.

Back in La Paz we visited the Coca museum where they basically tell you how many wonderful properties coca leaves have and how it is the 'white man' who is responsible for the cocaine industry and resultant exploitation.

We also went to the 'Witches Market' where you can buy magic potions, dried frogs and of course dried llama foetuses. Dried llama foetuses, thats right... although rather aromatic it is considered good luck to place the DLF under
Stacey & DianeStacey & DianeStacey & Diane

Following the 2 hatted wonders through the La Paz streets
the foundations of a new building to ensure prosperity blah blah...

I would wonder how on earth they came up with such a thing, however I was fortunate enough to bump into a fly who was on the wall of the house and witnessed the inception of this idea which went something like this:-

Hi Honey, I'm home


Hi dear how was your day?


Very good thank you I managed to shift a few of those dried frogs, seems like the demand is really picking up. How was your day?


Okay, but i am afraid the roof is leaking agian.


Damn... We should have buried a llama foetus under the pre-fab before construction?


I wont say I told you so...



We had a few days in La Paz and spent much of the time wondering through the streets looking at the locals and the markets. The streets in La Paz are like one big market. Locals mainly blanket-wrapped women line the roads selling fruit and other things.

We found an electronic market where knocked-off goods are sold back to their original owners and bought a battery charger. Stacey caused a great commotion by pointing out a rat. Suddenly the locals were screaming and pointing and screaming and shouting as if they have never seen a rat before (yeah right), next thing we know boxes and brooms are out and the little guys in danger... he got away though - lesson of the day 'never point out a rat to a Bolivian'.







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Muzza at the vanMuzza at the van
Muzza at the van

Come on Muzza let go of the van and get on the bike.
Watch that back wheelWatch that back wheel
Watch that back wheel

Careful, our lunch is on board...


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