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Published: December 15th 2008
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Titicaca
Cordillera Real in background So on into Bolivia. Our bus from Cusco to the Peruvian border was very comfy (well I thought so anyway). But despite being told we had a direct bus all the way to Copacabana in Bolivia, we were unceremoniously dumped off at a roadside, with directions to get a minibus. This we did, and after the simple border formalities were completed, another minibus took us to Copacabana. So perhaps the bus company didn't do everything they said on the tin, but we got there successfully nonetheless.
In Copacabana, we soon decided that we'd rather spend the night on the Isla del Sol, so after a quick lunch, we jumped on the next available boat across Lake Titicaca. Coincidentally, Laura and Jessie, 2 girls we'd met in Cusco, also turned up for the same boat, so we had a crew of 4. As it seemed like a nice day, we sat up top to admire the amazing views of the Cordillera Real as we crossed the lake. Unfortunately, once the boat left the shelter of the mainland, a bitterly cold wind snuck up on us. Being English, we didn't want to retreat downstairs, as being on the top deck in the
Tihuanco Terraces
Pre-inca you know sun is meant to be pleasant isn't it? However, once it was still chilly even after going as low as wearing socks and sandals, it was realised that it was time to admit the weather was going to be the victor.
Upon arrival on the Isla del Sol, the first thing we had to do is pay 5 bolivianos to set foot on the island. Some welcome! Once our entry tax was paid, it was time to climb the rather steep Inca stairs upto the first town, where we decided to spend the night. We also found Vincent from our Salkantay trek on our walk up to the town, and he'd taken up residence in the most expensive hotel on the island. It's alright for some! Unsurprisingly, our chosen lodging was a little less grand.
After a brief wander over the south end of the island, we found a nice spot for some tea. Inevitably, being on lake Titicaca, we ended up eating fish from the lake, and I have to say, it was absolutely delicious. The sunset over the lake, Isla de la Luna and the Cordillera Real was also incredible, but sadly my camera was out
of batteries, so you'll have to take my word for it (or come see it for yourself!)
The next day, we set off for a very pleasant walk from the south to the north end of the island. This is quite a popular walk, and the locals seem to know that, as every so often, there was someone sat there charging for a ticket to enter the next part of the island. I'm not sure how official this all was, but we handed over at every "checkpoint" nonetheless.
The Isla del Sol is famous for being the birthplace of the Incas, and at the north end of the island are various bits and bobs, including a sacrificial table, temple ruins, and possibly most bizzarely, a rock that is said to resemble a puma. The incas believed in 3 levels of existence. Snakes represent the underworld, pumas the world we live on, and condors represent the heavens. Therefore this puma rock was quite important. It was pretty difficult to make out though!
Before leaving the island, we stopped at a beach for a quick swim. And when I say quick I really do mean quick. I think from
stepping in the lake to getting out was about 4 minutes in total. This was the coldest water I have ever been in, and made the North Sea at Filey seem like a hot bath in comparison. But these 4 minutes meant I maintained my proud record of swimming in every lake I've visited on this trip.
After the swim, Beth decided to stay on the island with the other girls. However, I was keen to make tracks towards La Paz, so caught the bus back to Copacabana. Whilst there, I climbed up one of the hills overlooking the town, to catch yet another beatiful sunset over Titicaca, this one I did manage to capture on camera. Apart from that, there was nothing much else to report, so I'll update you next time from the highest capital in the world.
Ciao for now,
Stewart
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