Advertisement
Our lovely room in Copacabana. So, after that fun flight from Rurre, and a last day (for us at least) in La Paz, we were actually picked up (?!?!) by the tourist bus to bring us to Copacabana. No, not the one Rio de Janeiro, but the other one in Bolivia, on Lake Titicaca. We were all looking forward to the lake and the islands, one reason being the
Hotel Cupula, which had been recomended to us many times.
In total, Bin and I would spend 5 nights there, in 3 different rooms. The first had a phenominal view of the lake (see pic). For some reason I don´t think this was the honeymoon suite, as it had 2 doubles and 1 single bed. So unless you had your inlaws, or your pre-marital kids with you, you´d have 2 too many beds. The second room was small but sufficient, but the third was the prize winner, if only for the horzintal door and the hammoch behind glass (see video on top).
One thing worth mentioning was the "crossing" over water to get to Copacabana. The bus went on a separate barge (with one outboard engine!!), and we squashed into a small boat, for which
we had to pay Bol1.5 (that´s less than 20cts US). For some reason we´re getting tired of how disorganised Bolivia is, and why this sort of cost can not be absorbed in the bus ticket. Seems everyone wants to make (very little) money, but won´t work together in any way that would make sense to any westerner. Anyoldhow.....
After the first night at La Cupula we took off for Isla del Sol, again by boat, again with a single outboard motor. Trip of almost 1hr45, patience being the key word here, but some of the views being great.
General warning was the amount of people that would welcome you to the island asking to bring you to accomdation, be your guide, or anything they could do for a bit of cash. That, and walking up the 1000 Inca steps, from 3820m of the lake level, to over 4000m of where we found the lodge. Breathtaking, to say the least.
Stayed at Posada Don Ricardo, recommended by the Lying Planet, and again, a nice enough place (except for the electric showers, one of which nearly electrocuted me). Outstanding here because of the domes as well (but this time
blue, see pic), and the oddly shaped windows and doors. Quite comfy though, yet no heating, and great sunrise views (for those who bothered getting up), and lovely breakfast.
Day one was ended with a cheap bottle of red for sunset and a nice yet simple dinner in a local restaurant. The best part of the restaurant being that the Pizza oven heated the whole restaurant !! The worst thing.... we had to walk back up the hill to 4000m after a second bottle of cheap red....
Day 2 on the island, walking to the north to see the ruins. Well, trying to walk to the north. Alledgedly there´s another paved "inca trail" leading to the north. Like so many other places in Bolivia, there are no signs, yet there are people sitting by the side of the road selling entry tickets. We missed the road direction, so after ascending to one of the highest points on the island (puff puff) we found ourselves descending through the terrasses of the local farmers filled with vegetables to find the "inca" trail again.
The walk via the Inca trail was in both ways breathtaking (sorry, keep repeating myself), hard
on the lungs, yet beautiful on the eyes. The ruins in the north were interesting in many ways as well. Even Incas enjoyed seaside properties it seems and the labyrinth through the ruins was also quite amusing.
The Inca sacrifycing table was impressive, but the "Puma rock" again was one of those ancient sites which made you think "how much did they drink before they saw a puma like figure in that rock??"
Walking onwards to Challapampa, small village of fisherman, with one very big festival going on. Apparently a 3 day festival and there was plenty of beer/unidentified alcoholic substances going around. Anyone we spoke to afterwards had another amusing story to tell, ours was that our lunch order got lost in translation, and then got deep fried next door.
Walk back seemed easier, different scenery, but again was getting very hard on lungs and legs. Not surprisingly, we agreed to avoid that very big hill that separated us from our lodge, and went around it, the easier way ! Also finding out where we had gone wrong on the way in. One lives, one learns.
Second night, better red wine with another great sunset
and dinner at Las velas (the candles, that was the name, but also the lighting, no electricity). Also, a bit of a Q&A with the owner/cook about the upcoming changes to the constitution. the current one stands since Simon Bolivar declared the country independent in 1825 !!! With an indigenous president (first one, Evo Morales), that should make for some interesting changes. Some would like to see the national emblem become the andean cross with the coca leaf ...
Next morning, another sunrise, this time with clouds, but me still in bed (choices), and we headed back with the 10.30 boat. Apparently we paid 5Bols extra for a faster one, so we saved a whole 5mins on the way back!
Back to La Cupula for an early birthday dinner with Jennifer at La Cupula. Chocolate fondue for desert (swiss owners you see). Next day, Canadian Jen headed back to La Paz for one night, before heading back to Buenos Aires ... we´ve heard that she made the transport connection out of La Paz this time ....
We had 3 more nights in the lovely suite honeymoon attic, trying not to break our necks on those stairs, enjoying
the comfort, the views and the afternoon warmth of the sunshine whilst protected from the wind. Also did a few small walks, one to the Horca del Inca, an astrological observation station for the Incas by which they managed to tell their seasons. Great view of the city and lake, but again, sorry, one short but very hard climb!
Last day in Copa we decided to do the walk to the north tip, from which you could (optionaly) row to Isla del Sol. We cheated, took a taxi out to 1/4 of the way in, walked towards the final point and turned around with approx 15 minutes to go. Decided to walk back, instead of gambling on ferries/small motor boats/sail boats. Also managed to find a collectivo minivan back into town, but all up a great 4 hr walk with great lake views. Anyway, for those who know the old Suzuki minivans.... imagine me in the back seat. My neck is still sore!
One last great meal at La Cupula, one last nice brekkie, and we´re jumping on the packed tourist bus to Peru!! Our time in Bolivia, after more than 10 weeks, has come to an end.
Luckily we spend the last few days in a lovely town like Copa, as the country was getting to us a little......
Next stamp !!!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.191s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 13; qc: 73; dbt: 0.1285s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb